67 Cj5 Build Thread By A Rookie

This is what I was trying to explain, it’s locked between the nut and throttle bracket.

 

While that makes more sense, all the ones I've ever seen are behind the nut and free to rotate. As noted, the factory service manual also shows it behind the nut:


Whether one way is better than the other, I don't know.

 

That’s strange, this one has been this way since Dad bought it off the lot in 1970. Maybe put together on a Monday.

 

Got a couple of things done tonight to get ready to fire up the engine Sunday

Straightened out the choke bracket. Works much better now. Installed the spacer from Partsdude. It was pretty snug, so I took a little thickness off the inside.


This is withe the air filter that came with my jeep. Looks too big to me. Any suggestions?


Bought a dashpot. I need to trim down the post. Does anyone have measurements or a general guide where to cut it, or do I “use the force.”

 

I also filled up the radiator (finally something that isn’t leaking) and put some gas in the tank. The gas spills out when I fill it. The lines look like they should flow fine. I think it is because how flat the entry point on my filler is. I’m not sure if there is anything I can do except carry a rag. Does that happen to any of you?

 

Same factory service manual linked above, section E-44, has the dash pot adjustment procedure

 

Thanks. I read FSM, but didn’t recall seeing that and forgot to refer to it. Amazing what information is hidden in books!

 

So a mildly funny thing related to this is that I had a stress dream Thursday night - you know, the ones where you show up to work naked or missed graduation. I was giving a lecture to a big group of people and I forgot my thumb drive with the lecture, so I went up to the front and said I would do open questions. The first question was “can you explain viscoelasticity.” One of the models I learned in school was a spring and a dash pot, so I drew that out and explained it.

Friday morning, I was actually giving a talk on a different topic, but I decided to start off with taking about the spring and dashpot in the jeep and then explained viscoelastic behavior.

I think the stress dream was related to wanting to make sure I have everything dialed in before I turn the engine over tomorrow!

 

This info isn’t in the 66-68FSM, but I have a copy of the universal manual you linked. Looks like this is something to do after the engine is running (later in the process) since I need to make idle adjustments first.

 

It’s alive!
https://youtube.com/shorts/epsqLBb7aQM?si=X_1PKB8S1_Sy8N00

 

My main problems right now:
1. Gas leaks out really badly when I fill the tank. As in I now need to repaint the rear passenger corner. I’m hoping that I can change the line of the filler hose to fix it. If not, maybe I ditch the spare tire holder and put it out the side as many had suggested.
2. Carb is not putting out gas as well as it should. It will keep running around 1600 RPM with the foot off the gas, but if I drop the idle much below that, it starts to die.
3. My buddy who is a mechanic and is seen on the startup video said that the steering feels like it binds up. I need to figure out whether it is before or inside the gearbox.

Other than that, it is all expected things:
1. Finish body work/paint when the weather cools down a bit.
2. Replace front driver brake line with shorter line.
3. Put in shocks, maybe new ones flipped to avoid contact with steering knuckles.
4. Finish wiring front and rear lights.
5. New radiator cap.
6. Fab and paint passenger seat bracket, attach roll cage (just sitting in place now), side view mirrors, seat belts.

 

,,..

 

Sounds good Fritz. Now is the hard part of the final details.

 

Big problems 1 and 3 essentially done.

1. Fuel leakage: I made a separate thread on this. The problem was that the filler neck sent straight back horizontally. I had a buddy come over and put in some gas while I held the filler neck in a tilted position.

I added a 42 degree bezel which also allowed me to simplify the hoses with 1” (fuel) and 3/4” (vent) 90 degree hoses. Everything from fillernecksupply.com. I poured in 2 gallons from my can and no leaks. I still need to put in some gasket material to fill the 0.092” gap since the edge of the bezel overlaps the lap joint next to the tailgate.

 

Big problem #3 - steering, kind of solved. I disconnected the steering column from the power steering gearbox and everything turned smoothly. I don’t think it is too bad when connected and I wonder if it will free up after driving a bit. I have officially moved it to the “things to do after I am done” list.

New minor problem. The instrument lights are on even when the key is off. I don’t know if it is wired incorrectly at the light switch or the ignition switch or if the ignition switch is bad. This is on my “do it next week” list.

 

Shocks: I think I’m going to run with my original shocks. They look bad (dented, a little rust) but that might take the eyes off the orange peel paint job! I can’t figure out who made them. This is the rear driver. “Made in USA, CO4426J (or C04426J), 650321.” I found something on eBay that looked like it but no brand. Look familiar to anyone?

 

I think I figured out my instrument light problem. This is the diagram from KW I hooked the instrument lights to (aux) dash lights. This must be for a switched light. Looks like it should go through the “tail light” post.

 

the steering shaft has ujoints? the mack at work has two joints not too far from each other if they aren't in the right orientation to each other the steering will bind some as you turn the wheel. Like an out of phase driveshaft.

 

I didn’t think about that. Thank you.