Another Choke Cable Question

My original dashpot died years ago, when I took it off there was no real difference in engine reaction. I've just never bothered to replace it. If I could find a new one I would put it on but they don't show up on rockauto or any other data bases. Not original ones anyway.

 

It gets a little more confusing! The tab isn’t attached to the inverted 7 throttle linkage; that is actually part of the throttle linkage. If I were to hook up a spring to it, it would pull the throttle open! It also looks like it would block the return spring that normally attaches to the base of the dash pot.

It looks to me like I need to cut off the bottom of the throttle bracket and make a tab for the throttle arm. I’m not doing a thing until I hear a few of you chime in.

 

My other option, which I think I like better, is to flip around the tab at the base of the dash pot and hook the spring to the throttle linkage where I stuck the Allen wrench. This is where a spring attached previously.

 

What happens if you attach your return spring like this?

 

That is what I was thinking of in the post where you copied the picture. The bottom of the new “inverted 7” throttle bracket gets in the way. I could cut it off as shown below. I don’t see it on anyone else’s photos.

 

Go back and look at mine & cj5dales' pictures. You are still missing the attachment tab on the throttle pedal rod. It should easy enough to fab one.

 

I was actually in the process off making that tab (red arrow) when I realized that the rest of you don’t have the bottom part (blue drawing) on the inverted 7 bracket that gets in the way of the spring.

 

I would take the grinder to that tab, you will never know the difference once grinded off and smoothed out.

 

my link is different . but I do remember using that lower pivot when I had a auto

 

Here are pictures of my J/C 101 and my CJ3B with the two different styles for reference.

 

That’s great. Thanks. The one I received is for a cable driven throttle, and I have a lever driven throttle. Makes a lot of sense. I’m going to work on it tonight.

 

So I have my throttle problem solved, but the choke cable still won’t close the clutch. I tried pulling back the throttle and that didn’t solve the problem. I think the problem is that the line of pull of the cable housing is way off from the direction it needs to pull. The picture below shows the clutch cable bracket in the position when the clutch is closed. I don’t see any way around this besides modifying the bracket for the clutch cable housing. Thoughts?

 

Looking at more of these pictures, I think the gold cube is on the wrong side of the bracket. Tune in tomorrow to see if that is correct!

 

It appears to me that the seizure screw block (gold cube) pivot link has been bent over away from the carburetor neck, possibly done to provide clearance for the air filter because the appropriate spacer between the carburetor neck and air filter was not used. If the pivot linkage were to be bent back towards the carburetor neck so that the choke cable is a straight pull on the pivoting link that may resolve the issue.

 

I agree, it is easy to see in this picture you posted earlier. The block has to be able to pivot in line with the cable housing.

 

I see what you are talking about. I flipped it over and it works pretty well now but is still not perfectly in line and has the clearance issue as you described. I’m going to order the spacer today.

 

No, you need the choke cable set screw to be pointed vertical not to the side. The pivot arm on the choke is bent (to clear an intake that is too low). the clamp cannot pivot to stay pointed at the choke cable housing clamp.

Think of a steam locomotive wheel and the and rod that drives it. Or the throttle linkage.
The pivot for the rod points to the side for the rod to swing.

 

Kind of like this, although mine has the seizure screw coming from below to allow clearance to my home made carb-to-filter adapter. I can pull my dash mounted choke knob out easily with just two fingers.

 

Sorry, my reply wasn't very clear. I flipped over the siezure screw block this morning before logging into earlycj5.com and seeing your advice. It worked much better than before, but I totally understand what you meant and plan to straighten it out and put the block back where it goes in the next day or so. I also ordered the spacer, because there is no way the choke mechanismm will work with the thin black spacer I already have.