67 Cj5 Build Thread By A Rookie

It was “good enough “ before you fixed it. Now it’s really good!

 

I’m continuing to hook things up - and find out things that need to be redone. Dash wires are tucked away, steering column and steering wheel installed - kind of, drivers seat in place.

The Grant steering wheel doesn’t marry up with the Grant steering wheel adapter, so a call in to Grant or Summit Racing tomorrow.

I need to figure out how I am going to mount the driver’s seat. It was modified to raise it up about an inch, so I will probably roll with that right now.

My main problem is that I found that the gas lines from the tank to the fuel pump will block my gas pedal mechanism so I need to figure out what to do there. I’m also missing the bracket to attach my choke cable, so some time on the internet in my near future.

 

I removed my original fuel lines a long time ago, but I think when they hit the back of the engine the turned down closer to the bell housing to clear the throttle assembly. Are those the original lines or re-pops/home made?

 

JEEP is looking great! Keep up the good work.

 

Home made, and I have more cunifer line and flexible hose left over. Since they are malleable, I can use them as a template before I fully remove them.

 

I think I still have my original set in a tub in the shed, if you want them, they are yours for the cost of the ride, or I can get some measurements off them for you. Private message me if you need either.

 

Today I adjusted the brakes and clutch. I have never done that before, so we’ll see…

While I had the transmission cover off again, I measured the “final” MC pushrod length for the Horsepowersales disc conversion.

I asked about this on another thread. My front seat bracket does t line up will all four holes. It sounds like this is fairly common. Mine was modified with 1” segments of 1” square tube presumably to raise it up a bit.

I think I am going to be able to solve the fuel line interference with the accelerator by putting a little bend in place. The main problem appears to be that my flex line was too long so it pushed the cunifer lines up too high.

 

Some parts came in, so I was able to move forward. Choke cable bracket installed and housing trimmed. I bent the gas lines in place and cut back some extra fuel hose. The long fuel hose was the main thing keeping fuel lines in the way of the accelerator linkage.

Inverted 7 bracket installed. I need to figure out what holds the accelerator bar to the linkage coming off the carb. Edit: I found the clip to hook this up!

I installed the PCV hose from parts dude. It seems a little too easy to install. Maybe that will be ok when I put on the hose clamps.

Please tell me what looks wrong!

 

I didn’t get a lot done this week, but I think I am on pace to fire up the engine next weekend. The fuel lines are all hooked up including pump to filter to carb. PCV hose is hooked up. Partsdude recommended trimming a little off each end because the hose sometimes stretched out when being formed. In retrospect, it didn’t get nice and snug after doing that so I would have rather just relied on hose clamps.

The throttle and choke are hooked up, but I need to figure out how I am going to install the throttle return spring. The new bracket I installed blocks the normal route of the return spring. I have a separate thread on that and will post what I end up doing after I make a decision.

My choke cable is hooked up and looks right but it is really hard to close the choke by pulling the knob. I think the problem is at the carb. The choke linkage just doesn’t move smoothly. I’m going to worry about that after I have everything else working.

 

It can be hard to pull the choke when the trottle is fully closed since it needs to ramp up the idle with the idle cam. Try pulling it open while pushing on the throttle pedal a little bit to lift it off the cam.

 

Once you get your choke cable adjusted cut the end of the wire off only leave a 1/2" or so extra. Your finger tips or hand will thank you .that wire make nice little holes in your skin.

 

I have it that way right now to make it easier to assemble adjust. Thanks.

 

Pulling the throttle a little definitely made it easier to close the choke when the wire was disconnected, but it is way too stiff when the wire is connected. I think the problem is that the direction of pull at the housing is off from the way the wire needs to pull the choke bracket. The picture below shows the position of the wire retainer with the choke closed. It looks like I need to put some bend into the bracket. Thoughts?

Edit: I think the gold cube is on the wrong side of the choke rocker bracket. I’m going to try moving it tomorrow.

 

I posted this on another thread, but want to document it here. I modified the throttle bracket (“inverted 7”) and fabricated a tab to hold the return spring. Looks like it works fine now. I still haven’t added the dash pot. I don’t think that is my weak link right now!

 

The tab on the throttle side holding the spring goes on the other side of the nut so it is held in place between the nut and throttle bracket.
Keep up the good work, JEEP is looking good.

 

Read the whole thread, solid work and the jeep is looking great. I have one question that came up mid way through the thread when you were talking about brake cleaning the engine and such. Did you spray the heads down at all? The reason I ask is I did this with a Ford 400 that was very crusty inside, but amazingly still ran ok. Until I cleaned things up... We replaced the motor entirely, but what I think happened with that one is that the brake clean ate the valve stem seals and they just came apart about a month down the road after "cleaning things" . Don't want that to happen to your new short block. If you replaced that stuff then just ignore me. lol

 

I had my engine rebuilt, so should be good. Brake Kleen and sandblasting have been my windex and duct tape - used everywhere and probably in too high a guantity!

 

Rob, I'm a little confused about this. All the pictures on my choke cable question thread have the spring tab on the firewall side of the nut. What am I missing?

http://earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/160046/page-2#post-1850520

 

Copy that. I just didn't see where you'd had the heads rebuilt too.

 

I wasn't sure either after Rozcoking mentioned it. So I looked in the factory service manual. It shows the tab on the firewall side of the nut, ie able to rotate on the rod. Look at figure E-35 on page 132:

https://oljeep.com/53CjDj/53-71JeepCjDjServiceManual.pdf