67 Cj5 Build Thread By A Rookie

I checked out the u joints and I do t think I made any changes. Also, it does t look to me like there are any options as the sequence is steering column (spline) u joint 1 (D) u joint 2 (D) gearbox. Am I missing something?

I wonder if the bearing or bushing aren’t lubed properly.

 

I had to do a few things to build up my confidence. Seat belts, passenger seat, glove box, side view mirrors.


Then I tackled the better of the two fenders (drivers side). Knocked out the dents and welded in a piece of 14ga to take the stress off the repaired crack.



Next up is passenger fender. I ordered a sand bag and teardrop mallet to make the panel to replace the torn up part of the passenger fender. I really need an English wheel, but the tool fund got used for a MaxJax that I’m going to bolt in after I finish with my paint booth!

 

Passenger side fender is a lot worse. I made a template out of 14 ga based on the shape of the drivers side fender. Torch and hammer. Contoured the template to fit the fender and welded it in place. I’m not sure if I’m going to cut out the damaged 18ga parts or tack them together.

 

Today, I essentially finished the rear wiring. I’m waiting on clarification from Kaiserwillys about the black and red tail light leads - which one is stop/turn and which is tail. I also installed my rear shocks. I’m still figuring out the front - one of the last steps.

I started working on the windshield and found a treasure. The brackets were painted over chrome. I used acetone to take the paint off and there is some rust that looks mostly on the surface. There is one small place where the chrome is coming off, but it is where it contacts the windshield, so it won’t show. I don’t think it is bad enough to get them rechromed.

I need to figure out how to remove surface rust without damaging the chrome. Maybe rust converter? Here is a before and after.

 

Removing rust on chrome, try Nevr-Dull.

 

Nevr-Dull is ordered.
Today seemed like a waste of a day. I was going to install my MaxJax and then finish up some odds and ends, maybe prime my fenders, but the first MaxJax expansion socket didn’t seat well in the concrete. They say that 4.25” concrete is ok (I’m somewhere between 4 and 4.25) but I think the bottom of the slab splintered while drilling, so I’m going to call them tomorrow and most likely order the epoxy drop-in anchor kit.

 

Tail light update: The KW replicas look like a quality product, but the red and black wires don’t mean anything. On one side, red is tail and the other side red is signal. You can check resistance and the higher resistance lead is signal or just plug them in and test.