1970 Jeep Rebuild

Dang, Rob. Sorry to hear that. That sucks.

 

X2

 

Oh man, sorry that happened to you. Hopefully the damage ends up being minimal.

 

We got the front of the engine pulled apart.

looking at the distributor drive gear on the cam, it has some wear but no pieces missing:


I figured out where this piece that was in oil pan came from:

from the timing chain cover, where the distributor hold down bolt comes through: .

 

I’m going to replace the cam gear and the gear on the distributor, just because I’m this far in, even though the wear isn’t that bad.
I’m trying to figure out what route I’m going to take with the timing chain cover. My first thought is to drill out the hole and run a Helicoil in the hole, don’t know how long this will last. I could have my buddy TIG weld the hole and re-drill and tap it. Or I can buy a new cover from TA performance.
What are your opinions on these choices???

To answer your questions, the oil pump turns nice and smooth with no drag/rough spots at all, so I don’t think this was the cause. I believe that the roll pin was compromised as I believe it was an original 1970 part.

 

That gear looks pretty worn in my view. If I remember right, that was a performance pump. It took some force to break that cover.
Not sure what oil you are using. At any rate, the pump needs to be spun with a drill and see how much load there is with oil in the pan.

 

Your right it is a performance pump with the taller v8 gears. I did set it up on the tight side of the tolerances, (I believe .003, I need to look at my notes). I’m running Valvoline VR-1 20-50wt with zinc. I have turned the pump with a drill motor with the pan full of oil and it seemed to be smooth. That’s not to say some trash might of ran through it and caused it to tighten up. I’m going to pull the pump apart before putting anything back together.

 

Why are you running the v8 gears with 20-50wt?

 

X2. That seems excessive.

 

TA Perf. doesn't recommend the HV pump gears. Unless the the block has had the oiling mods (enlarged passages) it's probably pointless and contributes to strain on the gears. I run either 10w-30 or 15w-40 diesel depending on time of year ( tbh I have a lot of it around with my psd 's)

 

Gotta wonder why they went through the trouble of making v6 gears if it wasn't necessary.

There simply is never a need for 20w-50 in a gasoline motor. That's for diesels and transmissions.

 

This is what was recommended by the engine builder and it’s what I have been running since the motor was built 6-7 years ago and I have put over 20k miles on it.

 

Is this the motor Terry99 built or am I thinking of someone else?

 

Yes, same motor.

 

Ok, it has all the oil galley work. It's strange to be running oil that heavy but he knows his stuff.
You might inquire about 10w30 or 15w40.
If your oil is too thick with the high flow pump it dumps the excess out the relief valve which generates extra heat (that's why you don't want to hold the steering against the stops) If you can run a thinner oil (bearing tolerance, lifter bleeds, and ring gaps affect this) then more oil can flow through the system and help carry heat away from the internals.

 

You can get a fair idea how much torque is required on a 1/2" drill.

 

I would have your buddy TIG weld up the distributor hold down bolt hole and re tap it.
I would also switch to the 10-40 Valvoline VR1 oil. I have been running the 10-40 version for the last 10 years in my jeep.

 

Not much to update, still waiting on some parts.
I broke down and ordered a new TA Performance timing chain cover, (nice piece). Rebuilt the oil pump and installed.
Also picked up new camshaft distributor drive gear and distributor drive gear, installed these today in 104* garage.
Sorry no pics…

 

Got my parts I needed to get this done, still not 100% done. Need to prime the oil and stab the distributor and re-check my list and then should be ready to start.
'

 

I been working a little on the JEEP this week.
I got the oil pump primed and dropped the distributor in. Motor would not start, wasn’t getting fuel. I hit the carb with some brake cleaner and it ran. I pulled the output line off the fuel pump and put in a water bottle and turned the motor over, and nothing. Pulled the input line and gas was flowing out of it. I had a spare fuel pump under passenger seat that I had bought for Rubicon trip, so I put that on, still wasn’t getting fuel to carb. Started to look at my clear plastic filter prior to carb and found a small crack in the end of it, enough to draw air but not leak gas. I had replaced the filter right before Rubicon trip, it was brand new from the auto parts store.
I had noticed that after JEEP sat for an hour that the filter would be dry.
I replaced the entire fuel line from carb to fuel pump, getting rid of filter and it fired up the second I turned the key.
Today I set the timing and set the air/fuel mixture. still need to take it out for a drive, but at least it’s running.
Also need to back it out the garage and power wash it, it still has mud/dirt from Deer Valley, and I hate working on a dirty rig.