1970 Jeep Rebuild

this is the broken spindle

I was able to cut the top flush with the bumper then grind the weld off. I also had to grind weld off the bottom as this went all the way through the bumper.
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then I used BFH and was able to loosen it up and pound it out.

this is what’s left of the outside ring I made to lock the swing out in open position.

difference between old spindle from A to Z fabrication3/4” to new spindle from Ruff Stuff 1-1/2”.

Now I need to open up the holes top and bottom to get the new spindle to fit. This should be fun, as I don’t have plazma cutter, then again would be good reason to buy new tool!

 

Looks like the spindle is the same diameter as the bumper is wide. Cut the bumper. welds will be vertical front and rear. Fill the old radius.

What guage wire is it now 25A is a lot of current for a switch even 2 Headlights should only be 10A

 

I would use a good carbide burr and a die grinder to open up that hole.
Just work it in a circular pattern.
Why not recess the spindle into the bumper from the rear? Cut a slice in the bumper roughly 1/2" wide from top to bottom, then enlarge the old hole in an offset toward the rear.
That would allow you to weld around the top, around the bottom and weld 2 vertical surfaces on the rear.

 

What guage wire is it now 25A is a lot of current for a switch even 2 Headlights should only be 10A[/QUOTE]



It has a 16 gauge wire coming from the fuse block that is on the accessory switch that activates at the switch that goes out to the relays that then goes out to the KC lights. I went back and looked at the fuse that I took out of the fuse block, it’s a 15amp not a 25amp so I changed out the 25amp I had out in there, need to wear my glasses when I’m working on these things.

 

This is what I was planning on doing, was cutting the bumper vertically and fitting this in. Then when I started thinking, I realized that by turning it down an 1/8” I wouldn’t be taking away strength from where the bearings ride, and it’s still thicker then the previous spindle that was on there.

I opened up the holes to 1-3/8” with a step bit, this is about all the room on the inside that there is, as this is 1/4” wall, then i used a friend’s lathe and turned down the spindle to just under the 1-3/8” so it would be a press fit all the way through the bumper. I will cut the shaft about 1/8” shy of coming all the way through so I can get a good weld on the bottom and also weld around the top.

This is what I started with:

after it was turned down, I left a lip on the top for a stop for it to rest on and a place to weld:

It’s a tight fit, but works.

I’ll cut the bottom off just shy about an 1/8” so I can get a good weld on it.


I’ll finish this up today hopefully…. Got interrupted yesterday and met some friends out on the water for drinks.

 

I finished my list of things that needed done to the JEEP after the Rubicon trip.
It looks like it did before like nothing ever happened…. But it did and there’s pictures to prove it.

 

Looks great. I've often wondered if a Dana 27 spindle would hold up in this application.

 

I’m running a Dana 30 up front now.

 

I was referring to using the dana 27 spindle for a spare tire carrier pivot point rather than your old A-Z or new Ruff Stuff spindle. Sorry for not being more specific......or "splific" as the foreman would say.

 

I’ve seen that somewhere, don’t know if it was a Dana 27 specifically. I’ll look to see if I can find it again, it’s been a few years.

 

I remember someone made one from? maybe from a ford pu spindle, and hub with a locking hub on top to secure the tire rack in open position. Might have been Norcal69.

 

I thought it was Ted or one of garage gnomes other builds

 

@ITLKSEZ
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/116011/page-128

Starts on page 128

 

I knew I had seen it somewhere.

 

Had a great time on Deer Valley Trail last weekend, time for an update.
The new fan shroud I built worked perfectly! My temps never got above 180* on the trail, except when we stopped for lunch they went up to 195* while sitting and off, about 5 minutes after I started it up the temps were right back to 180*. It was not nearly as hot as when we were on the Rubicon, but my temps have been climbing whenever I start crawling doesn’t matter outside temps.
I rebuilt my carburetor back at beginning of June, and it’s ran better then it ever has around town and on the trail. I did notice that when we were on the highway from where we parked our tow vehicles to the trailhead of the Rubicon it didn’t seem to have much power pulling the hills but ran flawlessly on t he trail so I didn’t think much of it. When we left Silver Lake camp ground and started our 45 minute drive to the trail head of Deer Valley Trail I couldn’t get the JEEP above 20-25 mph going up the hills with a load on the engine, was sputtering and coughing, going down hill on flat ground it would pull strong and up to 60mph, Jeff said he could smell gas when following me. The JEEP ran good on the trail, until I messed with the floats at lunch messing up the gaskets and allowing it to suck air, then it ran a little rough but still wheeled good and didn’t stall out. I ended up burning 24 gallons of fuel for the day, trail is 7 miles one way and about 25-ish miles to trail head, around 64 miles total.
When I got home I started thinking about things I relized that this was possibly an ignition issue as it was pre-detonating under load. I tested the distributor with a vacuum pump and confirmed distributor was starting to advance at around 6 inch pounds and all in around 13 inc h’s of vacuum. Next I checked my vacuum coming from the carburetor at ported vacuum and found it at zero at idle and zero as I started bringing up RPMs. This would explain why I was losing power under load, distributor not advancing.
Pulled apart the carburetor fully expecting to find that I had a gasket in wrong blocking off a passage….didn't find anything. I cleaned all parts and rebuilt it and now getting zero inch’s of vacuum at idle and up to 17 inch’s as I bring up RPMs. Now I’m fighting an issue with carburetor back firing when I rev it up! …. I walked away for the day and I will look at it again tomorrow morning when my head is clear and it’s cooler in garage.
….. I know Kyle…. Don’t waste my time with the carburator and just put the fuel injection on…..I’m still waiting for it to be shipped, and I don’t like to lose, so I’m going to make this work right before I switch over!

 

I figured out my back firing issue today. I went to start the motor this afternoon and it wouldn’t start. Yesterday it started fine and idled fine just back fired under acceleration, with no load. i checked the front float bowl and it had no gas in it, yet the clear fuel filter right before the carb had fuel. I removed the carb from the motor and tore it down on the bench. I found that my accelerator pump diaphragm had a small tear in it and the check ball had been dislodged. I completely tore the entire thing apart and cleaned and reassembled with new gaskets and accelerator diaphragm.
Reinstalled it and it fired up as soon as the fuel bowls got fuel. Did a little fine tuning with air fuel mixture and she runs great, no back firing or hesitation on acceleration. Took it for a drive and it seems to be peppier then before, but I don’t have any hills to pull around here nearby, to see if it cleared up.
Now I need to crawl around underneath and make sure everything is good after wheeling it last week. I do know I need to replace front shock that I knocked a hole in.
It’s opening weekend of A zone rifle season for deer, so I need to get it done before tomorrow morning.

 

I took the JEEP deer hunting, it ran good on the ranch. I towed it to and from so I didn’t drive it on the road. Last week I took it for a drive in the foothills, and it still didn’t have any power under load. I didn’t get a chance to do anything about it as I had surgery on my shoulder last Friday. This week a buddy of mine came by and helped me out by switching back in my original Delco distributor with the PerTronix in it, so I could see if the DUI distributor was my issue. Monday we got the Delco back in and the wiring switched out and motor fired right up, didn’t get a chance to drive it. Tuesday morning my buddy came back over so we could take it for a ride. When we went to start up the motor I heard a pop while cranking, and it would not start up. We pulled the distributor out and found that the drive gear was not attached to distributor. It was sitting inside the timing chain cover. When I got it out and started looking closely the roll pin holding gear on had broke off. I didn’t see anything sitting in the timing chain cover. Thursday my buddy came back over and helped me drop the exhaust and oil pan… ….found more then the roll pin…also found what looks like a piece of the cam distributor drive gear in the pan..
Delco distributor:


Gear and broken roll pin:

found pieces of the roll pin and piece of a gear:


Now I need to pull front cover and see if I wiped out cam gear, what a time to be layed up with shoulder…


Anyone want to by a JEEP!

 

You seem to never get a break. Check the oil pump for drag on the gear.

 

HV oil pump gears?

 

x2, First sorry this happened to your jeep and your shoulder. I once had a tiny piece of paper gasket get into my oil pump that locked it down that sheared the roll pin in the dist shaft and broke the gear. The oil pump has such close tolerance between the gears and housing it would only take a tiny piece of trash to lock it. in my case the tiny piece of paper gasket was about the size of a pencil ereaser end and about .010 or less thick.