1970 Jeep Rebuild

I would guess it's the 8" of flat on the inside of the arch. wfo has .25" shims for spring under with an offset drilled and tapped hole.
https://www.wfoconcepts.com/i-30504791-leaf-spring-axle-relocation-plates.html

 

If you like the ride and location of your spring perches now...I don't see why these wouldn't work for you.
Eliminates a lot of grinding and welding. Bonus...more fuel tank clearance.

 

The ones you linked would give a 1/2" drop in height in the rear and also may cause spring wrap in doing so.
Seems like more stuff to shift around.

 

This might be a better solution, won’t need to cut off and re-weld perches.

 

I was wondering about the length of the perches I showed being too long. I didn’t do the math on the height drop, I think you’re right about possibility of axle wrap.
Think I might try out the WFO plates at a 1/4” and see how they work out, $39’s isn’t bad.

 

I Re-read the details and they are .5" thick. Still way easier than chopping perches or hangers. If the location works and you need the 1/2" back then drill the existing spring perch and use the offset u-bolt plates with them. The bolts will still clamp the same just the center pin location moves.

 

Being OCD about these things, I would relocate the hangers. Not really liking the offset of center on the axle pad nor would I want
to grind and re-weld them back on. It is eight welds compared to four and may need the perches moved slightly for optimization.
This would also give more leeway such as moving 1-1/8" forward instead of 1". That in addition to no drop in lift or axle shifting with slotted bolt holes, etc.

 

While I’m still thinking about moving the rear axle forward and what route I want to go, I started removing the parking brake off of the back of the Dana 18.


I did get the drum removed but didn’t get any pics. The pan is leaking so while the oil was drained out I ordered a new pan from Novak, should be here Wednesday.

 

I was also looking for a rear bearing retainer that didn’t have the post for the parking brake lever, anyone have a suggestion where to find one? Did a quick google search and didn’t have any luck.

 

Post a WTB ad in the forum classified section. They've changed hands there before. They generally came on early trucks and wagons.

 

I believe the post is just a press fit. It is a dead hole with no threads. I removed mine long ago. Don't see any
reason to replace the retainer as I believe they are the same length and it won't be necessary to re-set the preload
on the bearing.

 

Good to know…I’ll take a look at it tomorrow when it’s on the bench and see I can get it out without messing the retainer up.

 

got all the parking brake stuff removed except the rear bearing retainer.
shot of the gears, still look like new.


the over drive unit has a leak where the cap attaches to the body. Need to find a new gasket.

Oil was black and a little dirty but had no metal shavings in it. Needed changing anyway after 6 years.

 

Finished up removing parking brake and servicing transfer case by replacing pan with a Novak pan and replacing several seals to fix leaks.



used old skid plate had to do a little straightening. I’ll get some metal and build a new one.

 

Filled transfer case with oil to finish off that project, (still want to make new skid plate).

 

Got my new u-bolts (5/8”) and spring plates with 3 holes so I can move rear axle forward.

 

I had some 3/4” x .120 wall that I cut some 3” pieces for shock studs.

'
I found some shock studs in a cabinet that will work

I drilled the 3/4” tube to 5/8” to fit the studs.

I will weld these together before I weld them to the spring plates.

 

Those are beefy. Looks like you have all the hardware in place with sockets and shims but your shocks are pretty low... any thoughts on nibbling a bit off the flange and putting the shock stud up tight to the spring pack?

 

When I was rolling around under the JEEP messing with transfer case I was looking at the spring perches that I had used from Ruffstuff and they were already drilled with the extra holes to be able to move axle forward or back. This will save me some work.

 

Funny you said something, I didn’t drag out the welder today because I’m not happy with the low shock placement. I’m open to all suggestions.