Adjustable clutch push rod for slave cylinder

I tried my hydraulic clutch setup today. Have a 360>T18 with the correct bellhousing and the slave cylinder from an 80's 4 banger jeep. Slave is mounted, looks good, made my own hydraulic line, filled up master, bled. All is okay so far, until...

I press the clutch pedal, I can see the slave moving, but it won't go far enough to release the clutch. I assume I need a longer push rod. So...what to do? Anyone do this conversion and if so, what did you do for the push rod.

 

Which master cylinder are you using? I presume the piston moves some when you push the pedal? If you increase the diameter of the cylinder, it will deliver more volume for the length of piston travel.

 

The master and slave are the paired set from the 80's CJ...13/16" or 7/8"...something like that.

Yes the piston definitely moves. I can clearly see it move the clutch fork. And I can feel pretty firm resistance through the pedal. It just doesn't travel enough to disengage the clutch.

 

Couple things come to mind

I would try bleeding it more

If that didn't solve it I would use an adjustible pushrod

I made mine out of a coupling nut and a cut up chevy clutch rod

One last thing

Are you using a pull back spring? If not you will most likely need to

 

Other thing is how much movement are you getting out of the slave cylinder piston? If the piston is already moved outward then an adjustable push rod may help. If it's already all the way into the cylinder it won't do any good.

 

Pull back spring is installed. I can certainly try bleeding some more.

I am getting about a 1/2" or more of movement...seems like plenty.

If I do need an adjustable push rod...where would I find one...FLAPS?

 

I doubt you will find an adjustible pushrod at a local flaps

I bet summit or similair would keep something

 

Maybe i'm out of subject...did you change the clutch while doing the conversion, because i did it while doing the conversion and i had install the clutch backward and nothig was working.

If you doesn't find any ajustable rod, use different bolt lengt (cut the head) until you find the good lenght.

 

I did put in a new clutch as a matter of fact. I'm pretty sure it's installed correctly. But that is a good point. I'll probably try bleeding first, then a longer slave push rod, then trouble shoot from there if it doesn't work.

 

for myself the slave doesn't move so much, maximum 1 inch at all and everything is ok...

 

I just read it a second time...you have the same symptons as i was having while doing my conversion...my clutch has been installet backward and the pedal was pretty hard to move...now that i put it in the right position the clutch is very smooth (just like a modern car). Another thing did you put back the pivot ball onto the clutch fork?

 

I did some research before installing the clutch disk so I think it's in okay...I'll be pretty bummed if it's not. I did put the pivot ball back in...I bought a new ball, spring, and return spring for the whole setup.

I don't think I'll be able to see the clutch plate through the inspection hole, even with a mirror. However, I can replace the push rod pretty easy so I'll do that first. If it doesn't work, then I guess I'll back out the trans and check the plate orientation. Keep your fingers crossed.

If I need to remove the trans I'll repost here and ask your advice on that too.

 

yeah hope for you that you dont need to pull the tranny again...

 

with a rubber section? a coiled hard line won't work for long, since the slave is attached to the driveline. not that that has anything to do with your slave rod travel.

 

I have that same hydraulic set up. I found it's really hard to bleed. If you crack open the line at the master cylinder, while bleeding it. You can get all the air out.

 

Maybe I'm doing this wrong then. How do you bleed the system with one of the lines cracked open?

I will eventually upgrade to a more flexible line...but I really just want to try to get this thing on the road. I hope there is enough flex in the hard line to last a little while.

 

Slowly pump the pedal until you build pressure, hold pedal down, crack open the line, let air and fluid come out, close fitting, repeat as necessary. Just like bleeding brakes. After all the air is out of the m/c then continue at the slave cylinder and do the same.

 

I see. I've always just used the bleed valves to bleed the system...except bench bleeding the master brake of course. I will do this after work today and see how it goes.

 

Bench bleeding the clutch m/c is what you would be doing. Just on the vehicle instead of on the bench.

 

with the torque rotation from the engine, the driveline will twist. especially if you "get on it". this can easily snap a hard line, even a coiled one.


best way to bleed that sucker is to operate the clutch pedal race-style. push it to the floor, and then slide your foot off to the side, letting the pedal rebound to the up position without any resistance. eventually, you'll build up pressure, then you can open the bleeder (on the slave) with the pedal depressed to the floor.

wally