Adjustable clutch push rod for slave cylinder

push pedal, open line,hold pedal to floor, close line. learned this way too many moons ago pumping makes big bubbles little...

 

Bad news I think.

After following all the above advice on bleeding, putting in a long threaded rod as a replacement push rod, I decided to put a come-along on the rear spring up to the throw out fork. After significant fork travel, I assume it was enough to disengage the clutch, the Jeep still won't move when in gear. I think my only conclusion is the clutch plate is in backwards.

 

Before I go through attempting to remove the trans for a clutch plate inspection. Is there anything else that I should/can check while the trans is still installed? Clutch fork, bearing, etc. Just want to know what to look for through the inspection plate.

FYI: I found my clutch box this morning. I installed the Luk 01-025 clutch. Per the Luk catalog there are two clutches for the 360:
Year Model Plate Diam. Tooth
1974-79 01-025 1015/16 1 1/8 10
1980-84 01-030 1015/16 1 1/8 10

I'm not positive, but I believe I have the T176/T150 bellhousing. I didn't have to modify anything to mount the T18 or the hydraulic slave if that tells you anything. If so, I wonder if that would make the difference too. Both clutches have the same basic diameter/tooth count though.

 

It might also be your pilot bush/bearing that is stuck.
You might have to look into that as well.
I had the same issue when I first installed my engine.
I also used a strap to pull the fork, but the clutch also seemed to be stuck.
After removing the engine again, we found that the pilot bushing and gearbox input shaft was stuck.

 

How many forks do you have on you're pressure clutch? i had a 304/t18 combo and originaly it does have 3 fork...other may not work with a v8...

I'm maybe wrong but i could help you out...