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V6 rod bearings

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Patrick, Apr 20, 2011.

Page 2 of 3
  1. Apr 20, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Done. Gonna have to drive all the way up town to get a flare nut wrench out of my box..:rofl:
     
    Patrick, Apr 20, 2011
    #21
  2. Apr 20, 2011
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Sarcasm aside, talk about job creep. Summers coming. If it's just a rod bearing or two, just replace them and do the rebuild in the coming winter. You'll have the jeep for fun in the sun and be able to spread the rebuild costs out over a few months. Just saying...
     
    grannyscj, Apr 20, 2011
    #22
  3. Apr 21, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This is the only rod cap I pulled. Crankshaft end play is supposed to be .004"-.008". I didn't measure it, but I can move it back and forth .015-.020 I'll bet. This crank has been ground .010". The cylinder walls, what I can see of them, look great. Compression was ~135-140 across the board when I put this motor in. I know it had very few miles since it was rebuilt, I'm just not sure what happened with the crank/ bearings.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2011
    Patrick, Apr 21, 2011
    #23
  4. Apr 21, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Patrick, Apr 21, 2011
    #24
  5. Apr 21, 2011
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    you going to plastigauge or not bother and just install crank kit ?
     
    jpflat2a, Apr 21, 2011
    #25
  6. Apr 21, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    There's no need to plastigauge the old stuff... But yes, I will plastigauge the new crank/ bearings.
     
    Patrick, Apr 21, 2011
    #26
  7. Apr 21, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    On the rear main seal...I had limited luck with the plastic seal last time. Should i use a rope this time?
     
    Patrick, Apr 21, 2011
    #27
  8. Apr 21, 2011
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    I've always had better luck with the rubber replacement seal.
     
    nickmil, Apr 21, 2011
    #28
  9. Apr 21, 2011
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    It's toast. Copper showing. No need to measure. What does the journal look like? Yes, I'd Plastigage the new crank - cheap insurance.

    I've removed rope seals but all I've installed is the rubber/neoprene seals. The rubber seal is supposed to be better - but maybe it's just easier to install in situ. I expect I'd use the rubber seal even if I had the crank out.
     
    timgr, Apr 21, 2011
    #29
  10. Apr 21, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Crank and bearing kit ordered, as well as gaskets, seals, plastigage, etc., etc.
     
    Patrick, Apr 21, 2011
    #30
  11. Apr 21, 2011
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    I was just curious how far gone
    and out
     
    jpflat2a, Apr 21, 2011
    #31
  12. Apr 21, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    clutch kit, etc., etc. :rofl:
     
    Patrick, Apr 21, 2011
    #32
  13. Apr 24, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Waiting....
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Patrick, Apr 24, 2011
    #33
  14. Apr 24, 2011
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
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    well...you can always chase bolt threads and clean/blow them out
     
    jpflat2a, Apr 24, 2011
    #34
  15. Apr 24, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    I will, after the pan is on. Or at least after I get a gasket so I can set it on there. I want to keep as much crap out of there as I can...
     
    Patrick, Apr 24, 2011
    #35
  16. Apr 24, 2011
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Any possibility you have an oil delivery problem to the crank? Not that familiar with the 225, but it might be worthwhile to run all the oil galleries with a bore brush. The FSM will have an oil delivery diagram that will indicate what to look at and what could go wrong.
     
    timgr, Apr 24, 2011
    #36
  17. Apr 24, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    I really don't think so. I have looked at the diagram.
    This motor is extremely clean inside, and/ but seemed to be plenty of oil in every gallery when I took it apart. It was running fine; just a bit of rod rattle at higher RPM. Honestly, if I had a mechanical fan, I wouldn't have heard it over the fan noise, yet.
     
    Patrick, Apr 24, 2011
    #37
  18. Apr 24, 2011
    blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    Portland Tn.
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    suck it up and fix it right...:)
     
    blevisay, Apr 24, 2011
    #38
  19. Apr 24, 2011
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Um, I am...
     
    Patrick, Apr 24, 2011
    #39
  20. Apr 24, 2011
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Too late Billy, I already said that:)
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
    nickmil, Apr 24, 2011
    #40
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