Buick 225 4spd tranny swap

Ford t-18!

I run one in my 3b, Was the first swap I did and I still like the fit the best and working on the tranny was the easiest as well. t-18 has a 1" spacer like the sm465 over all combo is shorter.

I am doing the sm465 on my cj6 project just to try it out, it's nice but huge, heavy and you need a press to work on the internals. bell housing hole needed work just like the t-18.


I also have a sm420 combo sitting in my shop and after looking at all three the t-18 is the way I'd go. The other two are fine and if you get a good deal on an adapter or something I'd say go for it. But I'd pay a little more if you have to for a ford t-18 and be ahead in the long run.

 

That could very well be. When I bought the engine (out of a C101 Commando) it had a 4 speed behind it. I wish I knew which one it was, but the owner wanted to keep it so I didn't get a chance to look.

 

there's a reason why these are called conversions fellas.......

 

I went with the t-18 last year after doing the same research you are doing now. sm420 were just less common and PartsMike convinced me to go t-18. Like Herm he is a great resource on trannies. They both will be a huge improvement in granny low and hopefully you will never need to touch it again once it is in. $1500 is about what it cost me when all was said and done. Now I am doing the power steering.

Peter

 

If you machine the front bearing retainer down on the T-18 you can then use a stock GM throwout bearing and not have to machine the bellhousing center bore.

 

I hadn't even thought of adding a reverse switch, guess that makes sense. I take it the shift tower has to be drilled and tapped? There a write up on it somewhere?

From the looks of Warlock's pictures the griding is around the transfer case shifters for clearance. Correct?

 

A how to on adding the reverse switch to the sm420
http://www.kinzers.com/don/landcruiser/sm420rev_switch/.

The sm420 is ground on the transmission if I remember correct, the sm465 is ground on both but mainly on the transfercase.

 

Great info. Thanks. 8)

 

Nickmil,thats what I did , but also had to machine down the throw out bearing slide, is there a bearing retainer avail that has the right diam for the throw out bearing slide?

 

We machine the od of the bearing retainer to fit the bellhousing but also the area the throwout bearing rides. The ford retainer needs to be shortened slightly also. We just machine the dimensions to a stock GM bearing retainer. You may need to change the retainer bolts to a hex key head (Allen head style) though as sometimes the regular bolts hang over the edge of the retainer.
We also modify Ford T-18 cases to bolt directly to GM bellhousings. You have to weld on one tab with a hole in it and slot one hole. Use the Ford input, the machined bearing retainer, and a pilot bushing machined for the Ford pilot and you get a nice clean set up with no adapters on the front. There are other ways to do it but this makes a nice bolt on set up for our customers.

 

Ok, so it sounds like Ford T18 it is. I think I can get a good one for 100 bucks. I see you can buy a bellhousing that will go between the 225 and t18 from advance adapters for under $400. From what I've read, it sounds like I can get the Ford t18 machined to match my current bellhousing for considerably less. I also see I would have to buy the t18 to d18 adapter for $500.

I really want to do this quickly. I have 4 questions if you don't mind.

Should I buy the correct bellhousing or would it be fairly easy to get a t18 machined to fit my current one?
Do I need a different input shaft on the front of the t18?
I assume the shaft that the dana18 adapter kit comes with is the mainshaft for the tranny. Is it feasable for me to change the mainshaft out myself or is it very involved? I do have a 20 ton shop press.
Lastly, what about the clutch? Do I need a new one?

It's starting to look like I can do this swap for $1000 or less. Maybe several hundred less?
You guys have been great. Thanks for bearing with me.

 

I think all of your questions are answered here:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ford_to_gm.htm
You can use a Buick bell with minor modification you can do yourself.
You can use the stock Ford input shaft.
The kit comes with a new mainshaft, and you can change it yourself. It also includes the adapter plate. You may want to get a new mount, as well.
You will have to use a Ford clutch that matches the input shaft spline.

Make sure the mainshaft has the correct spline count for your bull gear. Novak sells two models.

If I'm mistaken - chime in. I'm planning to do this same conversion soon.

 

I'm with nickmil on the advise given above., I paid $550 for the ford trans,10 years ago , I have $125 in the buick bellhousing- drill one new hole, weld alum material to accept 2 helicoils, I drilled pilot bushing to correct inside ford diam,I turned the retainer 3 ways for free.and I scored the holy grail -Scout -texas Dana 300 for $175 ,so no adapter were needed anywhere.

 

FWIW, I asked Novak about the unsupported "new" hole that is drilled in the Buick bell to match the Ford T18. They said it was fine to just tap the hole and not worry about welding in additional material (this is following their guideline on their site - not the method outlined above).
If I can find someone to do this aluminum welding for a reasonable fee, I'll go ahead with it. Otherwise I will skip it.
I'd like to know if anyone has had any trouble by NOT adding additional material to support the new hole location.

 

I did that swap years ago with no help from AA or Novak and way before I found this site. just seamed like the thing to do ,you could getaway with it, but that trans is heavy ,I thought the more strength the better. you'll notice the jeep will feel heavier when driving it ,but my old trans was a car muncie 4 spd.

 

I didn't add materiel to the bell housing when I drilled and it still fine. Sounds like a good idea though. I'd find a used v6 bell housing and mod. it. 400 seams rather steep.

 

Honestly I'm not really worried about drilling and tapping the bellhousing. I'm worried about getting the retainer machined. I've never been to a machine shop before. I know theres a few around here, but what do you think they would charge?

 

Should charge $30 or less. IIRC R&P sells machined ones ready to go and they supply the retainer for around $50.

 

thats a deal ,paid 45 from Border Parts for a regular one, then machined it myself.