CJ5 build help

I have a 76 CJ5 258 t-18.

My plans: Swap out the the d30 and amc 20 for a pair of 44's. Going with 35" tires and plan to set it up for crawling. I've read numerous articles on SOA vs SUA, and am still on the fence. I've read about spring hop, spring wrap, troubles with steering, and so on.

I haven't wheeled in over 15 years, but still have the same jeep. I've wheeled Rubicon several times with 31's and stock drive-train with no problems, ok well no breakage. So I want to go back to rock crawling and have a decent rig.

I'm having a waggy front end that is getting shortened for the project, now I have to figure out just how much. Since I haven't really spent any time with a club or even wheeling at all since moving to Portland (marriage and kids will do that too), I'm coming here.

I'd like to keep the wheels under the jeep, so I'm thinking on keeping it narrow track width. I know SOA is more expensive, but as far as getting the geometry right for the steering and getting the rear axle stable, I'll do what I have to if I decide SOA. I realize I'll have to cut wheel wells as well.

So I'd like to hear from people with CJ5's that have done 35" tires, and what you have done that you liked, and what you have done that you would have done different. I know this subject is one of the oldest around, but it gets tough finding articles that pertain to my certain situation. I'm planning on 4.56 gears for now and maybe a Tera low conversion later.

For those of you that have done SUA, how much lift did you go and with what springs? How much body lift did you do? If I go SOA, I've read about stock YJ springs that wont give too much lift and have lots of flex. I picked up some 7 leaf waggy springs real cheap, almost free. So I'll have to see if I'm able to use those, I heard they were good springs to use. As of right now, I'm running 31" BFG's, 2 1/2 Rancho springs, 1" Confer shackles.

I have two waggy d44 front ends (3 flat top knuckles), and a scout II d44 rear end, and a narrow track rear end that's available. I have to make a decision soon. I got good deals on the d44's, 200.00 for the 3 units. One unit is hub to hub front disc brakes, the others have axles and gears, no hubs.

I'll be going to a big swap meet March 7 (Puyallup) and hope to get a good deal on some wheels. I'm planning on 35" TSL's on a 10x15 wheel.

One more question. If I decide to keep the wheels under the jeep and keep say wms of 52-54" what kind of backspacing would I need? This is all new to me, appreciate any help.

Thanks, Dave

 

I used the wide track axles for the added stability with the lift.

http://www.hudsonhawk.net/jeep/jeepmain.htm

 

Typically cars have a slightly wider axle on the front than on the rear. One option would be to let your Scout axle determine the rear track width, and make your Wagoneer front axle about an inch wider. You could also look at the passenger-side spring perch on the Wagoneer axle and determine how far the wheel mounting surface (WMS) sticks out from the frame with the perch directly below the frame. Then measure the distance from the passenger WMS to the center line of the Jeep and double that - that's your WMS-WMS distance. Not sure how this compares to the Scout axle, but it would save you from having to outboard the Wagoneer axle (the usual approach with a full-width Wagoneer axle) and likely give you an axle width somewhat wider than the standard CJ track width.

 

First, welcome from Portland, OR also!

If it were me and I were narrowing or having narrowed the axles I'd go wide track CJ width. It will add stability and and give you a better turning radius without having to outboard the springs and without being too wide. There are areas in the PNW that are pretty narrow and going full width can be an issue depending on where you wheel.
Like anything, there are lots of opinions out there of what's "best" and what's not.
Since you are going to Puyallup swap meet, stop by R&P's booth and speak to me, Richard, or Paul about the axles and different ways to go. Also speak to as many other people as possible and get different ideas. We will have different axles on display and should be able to physically show you some of the differences in width, options for wheel lug patterns, what hi-steer (knuckle over steering) etc. actually looks like and what you will gain or not gain from various modifications.
Personally I'm not a big fan of soa because of the problems associated. They can be overcome with lots of work and some money put into the right places but it's not necessarily as easy as some on the internet would have you think.
Having said that, my CJ-6 is sprung over but I went into it knowing the problems involved and how to solve them. All my other Jeeps remain sprung under with a good lift kit.

 

Will do, I've actually been to RnP's shop and talked to both Richard and Paul. It seems that there are a hundred ways to do a lift. Every one I talk to has has different way of doing it. So here's the latest I've learned. 35's are a better fit with a spring over. If I do go spring over, the waggy pumpkin on the d44 will require work, and I'm better off with a Chevy pumpkin because it's already set up for that. So if I go SOA with the Scout rear, can anyone tell what kind of backspacing I'll need for 10x15 with 35" MTR's (or what ever good deal I find)?

Ogre, got a number I can reach you? Or are you at RnP's?

What size tire do you have on your SUA and when you say "good lift", give me an idea of what you mean. And what problems did you have to overcome for the SOA? and what size tire are you running on your CJ-6? I'm home most of Thur, wouldn't mind having a chat with you before I head up to Puyallup. Looking forward to hearing from you.

my email: grumpy232 "at" comcast.net

 

E-mail sent. If you wanna come over this afternoon you're welcome. Just give me a call. If you send me back your phone # I can call you when I'm on my way home and meet you.