Body Mount Bushings for a CJ2?

Yea I think this is the way I'll end up going. Just simple and gets the job done.

 

Another option if the valve spring thing isn't for you is to put mounts between the body and frame like normal then another one on the bottom of the body to frame mount sandwiching the frame with mounts. Allows a little more flex to combat body fatigue but doesn't allow the body to shift around. I'm going to do this on my all my CJ's as the mounts need replacing. Make sure you use a flat washer on the bottom mount so the nut/bolt doesn't pull through.

 

Wouldnt i use large washers on each end of both bushings? that way each bushing has a washer on top and one on bottom?

 

You might want to reinforce the body sheet metal where the bolt goes through with a large washer, but I don't think you gain anything by putting a washer next to the frame rail.

 

This is what the urethane ones look like that I put on the 3B a few years back. They are made out of 1.5" medium hard (Shore 90A) polyurethane with a 1/2" stainless bolt, stainless heavy body washer on bottom, and very heavy stainless washers both inside the body (or on top of the subframe as in jpg) and under the nut. If these were not lift bushings, I would have used the softer 80A. For the stock hat sections, I use 2" material, but in this case, spreading the weight was not as important because the body is supported on 1/8 wall square tube. The McMaster numbers for the 1.5 and 2" material are 8695K181 and 8695K183 respectively for a 6" length. Lengths of 12, 24, 36, and 48" are also available- www.mcmaster.com