Body Mount Bushings for a CJ2?

I cant seem to find much in the way of mounting bushings for my 2A. I have herd of hocky pucks but does that only work for the front? what about the rear crosmember? Not to mention there has to be a better material than a puck, i cant imagine they isolate vibration all that much.

 

the originals were pieces of cut-up tire tread in varying thicknesses.
I used the Daystar pucks for all of mine, at the rear as well.
It might raise the body slightly, so don't be surprised if you use them.

 

sorry, im not familiar with the daystar pucks. What are they?

 

correction, I used the wrong manufacturer
I used Energy Suspension Products kit # : 2-4101G
12-14 ( I think) round black poly 3/4 thick pucks, about 1-3/4 inches in diameter.
listed for 1966 CJ5 I believe.
you won't use them all, you'll have extras left over.
the kit was $19.95 back in 2002 when I bought mine.
might google energy suspension for pics

 

couple pics of how they look installed
if your doing a restoration, they might not be for you
then Walcks, DeBella, etc for originals

 

no correct resto here. these might just work. I have the 4.3L vortec and a TH350 trans so if i could even get another 3/4" height it would help with the hood clearance. thanks for the pictures!

 

I got some from Walcks but th are just strips of rubber approx 2" by 3" with a 1/2 " hole, I think a piece of truck mud flaps would visually be the same.

 

Back in the day, the insulators were cut out of old tires, as Jim said. There were two thicknesses (about 1/4" and about 1/2"), and very crude - appeared to be punched out. About 3" long and 1.5" wide, with an oversize hole punched in the center. Same as what the factory used, AFAIK. Maybe the strips were cut with a shear and the holed punched in them.

Somewhere in the CJ-5 years, Jeep switched to rubber disks like Jim shows in poly. I think that some early CJ-5s came through with the rubber strips, but not sure.

 

I'm using hockey pucks and valve springs. The hockey pucks are between the body mounts and body. The valve spring is under the body mounts with the bolts going through and a nut/washer on the bottom of the spring. I think this will combat vibration nicely and allow the body to flex more independently from the frame. I haven't done this yet to my restoration.

 

just to clarify so i can picture it better in my mind, a bolt goes through the body mount, through a puck, then the top of the frame rail, and THEN the valve spring followed by a washer and nut? did i get that right? sounds very creative but i think i might be hesitent as it seems the body might shift around a bit more than i would want.

Or di i have it wrong?

 

Yes, correct. I saw this set up on a trail rig a jeep rally once. If it was used on that, then it should be really good for on road use. I would imagine the fenders/grille would stop it from moving too much. You can adjust the amount of play by tightening up on the spring also.

EDIT: those funky cowl mounts will stop most of the movement too (I'm not putting those on). The pucks also give a nice body lift.

 

I guess as long as the vavle springs are pretty stiff, it should work. Actually thiking about it, if I used a grade 5 or 8 bolt for the mounts, it would have to rip out of the body before the bolt broke and that would take ALOT of force.

 

Motor mount bushings for a 5,6,7 Chevy were what got the bushing thing started. Easy to buy that way. Any 4x4 shop will know what you want if you tell em body mounts.

 

I used the energy mounts like posted before. The slight lift does screw up a few things like pedal holes and the fender to frame mount and the vertical body to frame mount under the firewall. I just cut them off. My body does move around a bit. I'm going to fix that though through the cage to frame mounts.

 

The lift didn't hurt me any because I put a repro body on, so I had to cut all the holes.

 

Actually i hadnt thought of that. I am planning to put a cage on so shoul di not even worry about the mounts as the cage will replace them?

 

I had no issues regarding the holes lining up with my original body.
I guess it could cause some though.
Maybe I did do some relief to the pedal holes, but I don't recall.

 

Must be the difference in the 3a to the 2a. The 3a has two vertical supports that bolt directly to captured nuts on the side of the frame. If you're body mount bushings are a 1/4" taller than the original "pads" than some kind of modification would be necessary.

 

No, my 2A has the same mounts. The ones near the firewall right? I was just planning on modifying those to make them work with whatever lift i would go with. i just want another inch or so, just to help with the clearane of things.

 

Another option is cutting them from urethane or rubber rod. I have made them from 2.5" firm rubber rod and from 2" urethane rod-both from McMaster-Carr. A lathe works really well for this but I think a drill and hacksaw would come close enough. You can make them any heigth you want to level up the body and/or give it a body lift.