Rebuild For "miles"

I'm not sure, Scott @Buildflycrash commented about it being a wheel bearing when him and jeff stopped by.

 

That time of year... 6" of snow forecast this week so it's about time to re-install the hi-lo jeep pump. I feel like a type 2 with a huge remote reservoir would be ideal but... life.

The York had to be mocked up for future planning. It's getting crowded.

20240107_130902 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

 

Gotta note this... 56" v-belt for the pump 48.75" for the alternator

20240109_090839 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

 

The alignment is better than a Corvair belt at least.

 

I found the start of the bracket on the shelf, just a bit of angle iron with a notch and holes drilled. It has to be from 7 or 8 years ago and I just welded the angle onto some square tube. It can be shimmed forward easy enough I just need to get a round tuit to finish.

 

......... I've run plenty of those pumps & I'm not so sure that misalignment will work for you.

 

No worries, I'll get the pump moved forward easy enough with some 1/4" plates between the bracket and the cylinder head.

I really don't want to make a new pump shaft again and that belt was a pretty penny.

 

Time to cash out the bets...
Threw the belt today running up the highway.


I was running up the highway to get the temp up and retard the timing a little.
I believe we can agree that I don't have a good true timing mark (4.3 crank and balancer with early sbcshort water pump and all) so I did a before and after...

Before:


Distributor location before:


After:


No picture of the distributor location.... I need to get that before I head home.

According to youtube I need to set timing to 0deg with the engine at operating temp and the service plug on the distributor pigtail disconnected.
To me it looks like it is retarded to the 1deg. It does seem better now so I'll run it and review.

 

Well, it still stinks. I'll need to pull back the timing another degree. But... it's in the jeep house for bad behavior. Throttle got stuck at wot trying to make a left onto main st. Next thing you know I've got a cop behind me... blown exhaust gasket at the manifold, two bad mufflers and it's wanting to be wide open in front of a cop... soo many other things wrong with the situation, bald bias tires, snow plow without additional lights up front, 1/4 mi visibility due to fog and mist. One vacuum wiper that don't work at wide open throttle. Tail lights that must have a short. Steering that needs some love. Bad rear bearing. A 3rd gear synchronizer that is out. It also has a lovely clicking noise when stopping...

Soo it's in the garage. Cop did not pursue me in 2nd gear wide open throttle no exhaust when I turned off of main street. The pretty lady of the house has a big trip in the works, so best thing for me is to tinker on the little stuff then see how we stand. It's definitely time for tires and I'm about done with the t-90.

 

Tearing down the steering to fix the box location.
I might need to move the box up a little but it definitely needs to move forward.
Here's a sign when things aren't right...
The grease zert on the drag link is broken off at the steering box from contact with the snowplow frame. I have a flat pitman arm that will go on with the box moved forward.



They really went heavy on the salt this year...

And here it stands without the lift frame and steering box.


Once the steering is sorted out I'll move around to the rear and maybe fix that wire for the running lights and finish the corner guards.
Then I'll address the stinky engine starting with the exhaust. I think the logical plan is to make a single side pipe with a y from both banks and maybe someday extend the tailpipe to the rear. Then I need to verify all my sensors are within spec. I know my tps sensor on the throttle body has been bumped.

From my basic review of the AFI site 220duration @.05 is the limit for the computer before it has trouble reading load at idle. My motor has 202 and 213 so that and some sloppy sensors might explain something.

 

Expect a lot of little posts for a while, I don't get "garage time". I run home during my lunch break. let the dogs run around the fenced backyard, shift laundry, washed a few dishes and spent about 15min turning wrenches.

Today's accomplishment about 12 bolts, or 6 (eh MVP minimum viable product) and the fender is off.


Notes to myownself: exhaust is currently 2", and tomorrow I'll vacuum the upstairs.

 

I got a little bit done on this old jeep without even leaving the house.
Started with an old 4' x 20"ish strip of 20ga. I got this sheet back before the beginning of this thread.

1st I had to find an old thread...
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/154357/

Then I got out the yardstick and a sharpie.


Doing all this with simple tools because it really isn't difficult and most importantly... I had 3 kids playing video games next to me.
Tin snips, drill, drill bit, needle nose pliers.

With the sheet all marked up I cut the parameter and drilled the ends of the cuts.




Then nibbled out the corners and slots.


Then rolled it over the edge of a board.


Next I took the pliers and eased over the little 1/2" flange, And done with the bottom for now.


Then time to layout the top.


That's all I had time for and I want to get some new lights for the glove box.

 

Here we go... today's progress.
First was a quick double check that the PCM fit... back of the box was a bit low but i knew that with the sheet size and some extra on the cover was gonna fill the gap.


Then I started folding the cover. First two bends and a quick check... not ideal (the step is just a bit too much on the lid but usable.


Then the rest of the bends. This stuff is easiest if you take it slow, check often, and keep it square.



Then another check the PCM fits.


Then a trip outside to test fit.


Not quite right... looks like a half inch has gotta go.


Flattened the back sides and the height that was a little off.


Back to the finger break.



Now I just need to find that old light or get a new one. I did find a 12v receptical that might work nicely in the roof of the box... it's already getting power for the light and the pcm harness.

 

Looks good but you could mount it upside down to have the pocket in the bottom of the box. It helps keep things from falling out when you open it on a slight hill.

 

........Looks great, Joe. Nice work. Thanks, 'cuz I'm gonna save this for the future . I need this, too . Now , just make sure to line the hole for your harness with some rubber grommet type thing. We all know how these ' ECM's ' hate the chafe potential with our Ol' rattel & roll's .

 

I might need to. I was planning on running a 1/2" squarebtube under it for support, but it looks like it is gonna be close to the top of the body on the outboard side.

Luckily I know a guy with a 3d printer, lots of grommets and a tube of silicone. The goal is to make this weatherproof with the box welded up tight. I'll add some foam tape to the mounting flange and make sure it is tight tobthe dash. Then a weather seal on the door itself. Water had been killing my tbi relays and dust is also becoming an issue with the OBD1 port.

 

You've made an improved version of the plastic super-sized boxes from JC Whitney. That is what I have from about 30 (I think) years ago. Pre-internet anyway. You can tie the back surface to the firewall for added support.

 

Awwwww, Grant.......The days of our youth. I forgot about JC Whitney. They're CarParts now & of course, don't offer this part anymore I also have 1975 CJ5 , so that's a different animal altogether.

 

I did just find this , though it's not the" nauhgahide " look of yesteryear. Then there's the cost
What are the inside dimensions of this part?

It is approx 12-1/4 x 7

 

This may be better ready made for my Situ. ? Thanks for' kicking' me into gear on this though
It's 10 3/4 deep x 7 wide x 5 high . Less $'s & Gotts'a cutout for my wire harness , too ! If I do have to cut off a bit of the back, it looks like it will butt up to my heater box. ?