Rebuild For "miles"

Worked on the column today, it's not done but we have a bit of thinking to do to turn a column with wheel on a 9" southbend lathe with a 36" bed.

First thing we did was cut the worm off of the shaft.
To do this I popped the snap rings off of the worm and let the ball bearings loose. Then we cut the shaft where the clip originally lived. With that done the bearing race and retainer could be removed. Then with a firm tug the outer tube came off the upper bearing. The outer tube is ridiculously thin, think 22ga.
Here is the wheel and shaft.


Next two inches were removed from the outer tube. As a side note, mark your column where it passes your floor before you remove it so it feels right when you put it back on.
Here is the tube on the lathe, we ised the back gears and went slow while I acted as a steady rest.



Next we turned a 1"ID 1.625" OD set screw collar down to 1.43" leaving a shoulder.
This is a $4 steel collar to support a $5 off the shelf 7/8"ID bushing. I plan to drill the setscrew hole into the outer column and a small 1/8" hole into the bushing. I'll use a grease zert in the set screw hole to provide lubrication to the bushing.



Then we ran out of time.
We need to make a steady rest to support the shaft as we turn it down to .875 with the 3 jaw clamped to the remnant of the worm gear ball bearing surface, back-up plan is to drill and tap the tip of the shaft and use a bolt to spin it.
If you kept track and remember I have a 3/4DD yoke for this. A 7/8" smooth bore yoke is incredibly expensive but the DD yoke is drilled and tapped for setscrews so it will get turned out to fit the shaft perfectly.

 

I refer to the back gears as low range.

 

This one must have rockeaters because it makes a lot more noise in low. Something wasn't right with the bit so it was chattering. It also has a leather belt with the stapled seam...
Kathunk rattle rattle squeal chatter chatter
Kathunk rattle rattle squeal chatter chatter
All in a kerosene heated shed watching your breath float away.

 

Looks like a vintage Atlas/Craftsman lathe with babbit spindle bearings.

 

9" southbend.

 

Today was back in the garage,
I took a half inch slab of carving board and mocked the box up based on Mcruff's mounts.
The steering shaft looks like it'll work with that excuse for a motor mount removed. I did put the snow plow brackets where they go and everything looks happy. The box could move to the rear 2 or 3 inches due to the short Pitman arm.
once the steering column is done I can trim the shafts down to length but I need the for-aft location settled.

20230123_131024 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
20230123_131007 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
20230123_131451 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

Things left to do on this project:
Turn column inner shaft to .875"
Turn column yoke to .875"
drill column bushing for grease
Make a support for the base of the column.
Make a support for the DD shaft
Box the horns
Turn thru bolt spacers and bracket spacers
Make a metal steering gear mount
Tap the tie rod
Make a drag link

It looks like I need to shim and angle the axle for the tie rod ends to clear the spring packs.
If I undo those u-bolts I'll want to remove more leaves from the pile and make some high clearance plates with higher shock mounts.

 

Fiddled with the box position a bit more, decided the biggest issue is not having the bracket frame boxing plates then a little work on the brakes.

I took this thick wall bushing, drilled it out to whatever the pin on the brake arm is. Then i nicked the side with the angle grinder. drilled a hole the size of whatever the cotter pin goes in.
Put them together with a cotter pin and pumped it up.
I think it'll work, if that engine wasn't in the way.


20230124_130016 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

 

Not much progress the last few days. 11/16-18 tap for the Tie rod and a new residual pressure valve are on the way.
Hopefully I can get out to the lathe this weekend but I've got half a day of bill paying work to do.

 

The column is basically done. Everything is slow going. If we reflect back I'm using a 1"id shaft collar that is turned down to fit inside the column tube. Then I have a 7/8" id common bushing inside the collar. This bushing is easily replaced and has more bearing surface than the purchased solid brass bushing. My outer column is shortened 2" leaving 4" of outer tube below the floor and 2" of the inner shaft exposed because we simply cut the worm off the shaft at the ball bearing race.
20230205_145714 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

The column shaft is turned to .875"od far enough for the bushing to install.20230205_145721 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
This was not the best way to do this...
20230205_142738 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
Then everything is assembled except that one yoke for the bottom of the column.

20230205_151443 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

 

Quite a bit of grinding on the motor mount remains. I might move the box forward 3/8" and inboard a solid inch. The exhaust will need a little adjustment but overall I think this will work well.

What are your thoughts of leaf removal? This picture has a jack on the spring with minimal weight on the opposite jack stand. These were 11 leaf omix-ada springs and after 17 years they are still ridiculously stiff. I see there is a gap between the 3rd and 4th spring so I'm thinking i'll pull leaf #5 and #7
#9 and 11 are already removed years ago.
The goal is to lift the plow with about two inches of squat and get to full stuff just before the other side lifts.

Once the springs are soft enough I can do a final articulation before burning the box bracket in place.

20230206_130853 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr
20230206_130804 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

 

Moving along, my 7/8" id yoke found it's way yesterday so I reassembled the double u-joint.
This puts me in a good place.

20230208_125401 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

My stock column is as long as it can possibly be.
This is cut at the end of the 7/8" diameter and it's about a half inch of the old worm gear which is somehow welded internally.

20230208_123604 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

The double universal joint adds another inch and a half of effective length. I still need to make my lower column bracket which shouldn't be too difficult. The intermediate support will be off of the frame horn for the motor mount.
I need to clean paint and lubricate my spring packs, I'm thinking of a light coat of paint and assembling with wax or silicone based bicycle chain lubricant on each leaf. It needs to repel water and not attract dirt.
Once the top leaves are ready I'll make sure the steering box and Pitman arm clear the tie rod in all circumstances. Then reassemble as a 7 leaf pack.

The biggest challenge will be the exhaust, this is manifold and the shaft is directly in line. I figure there is enough room to make it work.
20230208_125428 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

 

Seems like we are making progress.
Column is in place, it needs a solid base bracket.
DD Shaft was cut from 36" to 24"
Box is positioned on the frame with a temporary assembly of sandwich plates and all thread.
Drag link will need to grow about three inches compared to the old long tie rod.
The passenger side will need a spacer between the springs and axle then once it's settled I'll measure for caster.
The drag link needs some sort of high angle tie rod end or a bend because at full turn the pitman arm swings too far away from the tie rod. I'm wishing I got a two hole knuckle or dana 30...

Couple more hours of work and I'll be rolling. Brake and clutch pedals should be next to go on once the base of the column is solid.

The exhaust will be fun...

20230218_160134 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

20230218_143846 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

20230218_160141 by Joe with a jeep, on Flickr

 

What are you doing for "flex" with your steering shaft, rag joint, bell coupler or other ?

 

I've got a double u-joint at the base of the column and a single at the box so I can either have a rigid support for the intermediate shaft and have slip within the DD shaft at one end or another but my plan is to actually have a slot where the shaft passes within the motor mount. There is a 3/4" id brass bushing on the DD shaft that will ride in the slot. As the frame flexes and the body bounces the angle at the double u-joint will change and the DD shaft will move slightly within the slot but still keep the shaft and center section of the Double u-joint under control.

I'll make sure I document the reconstruction of the motor mount and slotted shaft support when I get there.

I don't trust any sort of slip with mud and rust. I'ld love to have a bell Coupler but then I would need to notch the radiator support for it to clear.

The double u-joint basically acts like a spring shackle and the DD shaft is the spring all i need is a track to keep the shackle from rotating as one with the DD shaft which would cause interference and binding at the upper u-joint of the double.

 

It's been a few cold days making progress slow.
I'm trying to hold off on The stretch until the other projects are finished due to space and cost constraints. I must turn the jeep around to do the stretch. Garage is tight at 16x18'. I'm also wondering what the best approach on the rear driveshaft would be 1pc vs 2pc.

The steering and brakes task list:
Column floor mount is current task. Done
1/2" plate for bracket. Done
Driver side frame boxing. Done
Spacer tubes on thru frame holes. Done
I need a shim for the passenger tre to clear the springs. Done
Commando Y tre?
The drag link needs to grow an inch or two. Done
There is a brake line bracket that needs replaced. Done
Shocks, dampener, and bump stops need replaced.
Shim and support brake pedal arm at pivot and master cylinder push rod.
Bleed and adjust.
Stop light switch.

Then rerun rear wires with quick disconnect.
Rear corner guards and top bow sockets.
Flush tail lights.

 

Quick update:
Column floor bracket is mostly done, it just needs some mounting holes drilled to the floor and paint.
I have the column in EXACTLY the same location as it was. EXACTLY, and the outer tube is rotated to make sure the bottom where my boots rubbed the paint off is down.

My steering box mount is made per Mcruff's specs I just need to have the frame ready for it.

Now my shocks....
I'm thinking f250 towers are in my future that tree did a number to the shock and upper mount...


Driver side for reference:

 

Now is a good time to do the shock towers and put your shocks behind the axle. They $51 a pair at the amazon and Barnes towers are $139 also at amazon and they have a good drawing of how they line up.
This may or may not be in my future.

 

Onward with the Saginaw swap!
Now what are the odds of this:

I was hoping that bolt for the plow would not be directly in line with the steering box upper steering mounting bolt. I got the plate on the frame solidly enough to put the steering box, shaft, and column in place with a temporary drag link and turn the knuckles a bit.

Now for my welding wire to arrive...

 

I haven't had a ton of time to work on this but I welded the plate all the way round then on the last inch on the bottom had a clump of spatter hop a ride from the nozzle on the wire.
I ground down all the existing weld flush to do a 2nd pass then on to the gussets, motor mount, and shaft support. The 24" DD shaft is about a half inch long at the moment, but for a little while at least I will raise the column in the brackets to keep it from binding.




This area was a bugger and It'll get ground even and made pretty.

 

Fiddled around a little with the 3yr old trying to save the lawn from his gladiator and jurassic park jeep. We got the front driveshaft in place (not to self: it needs grease)
Then made spacers for the steering box.

Big goals for the next opportunity is to:
finish the frame bracket welding, done
grind the motor mount for the steering shaft to clear. Done
Reinforce said motor mount with steering shaft slot.
Weld together a temporary drag link. Done
Cut off the remaining old battery tray. Done
Grind off the bellcrank rivets and bury it.
Put the grill on. Done
Make a glove box / pcm and relay enclosure.

Then It needs fresh oil,
my air cleaner spacer needs remade (the petg is warped) In work
Clutch linkage reassembled. In work
Brakes bled tested adjusted. (Pushrod length may need adjusted and the pin needs crossdrilled)
Corner guards made and tail lights rewired (flush would be ideal)
Column needs to come out for holes to be drilled in baseplate and some paint. Done