Buildup-(pictures-a lot)

And I got a chance today to examine the body as well, tail gate has cancer I didn't know of
Body is warped, naturally. Floors are pitted and minor cancer, the floor in the tool box is GONE. The side step on the right I'm sure was ready to fall off, so both are removed and replaced with rocker guards/tube for a side step I can actually step on.
Now here's a question for you guys
Should I put the full floor boards in that I had ordered, or just put patches in and a hat channel kit? I think I can sneak by with the kit, myself.
Grille

Tail gate



Body tub




Nice big crease, wth?

Floors






And who would do this to the dash? Maybe they wanted a speaker?

 

I recommend using a product such as Nason (DuPont) Ful-poxy right now. You can buy it at O'Reilley Auto Parts in their back room. I know you're in the Southwest, but you'll still develop a surface rust if you don't seal it. Since the blasting etches the surface, the rust will develop down in those little pits that you will not be able to remove unless you blast again. After you epoxy it, you can still go back and grind and weld on small sections at a time and not disturb the majority of the body. Once you are done welding and grinding, you'll want to shoot the patches with epoxy again. Believe me, this stuff works and is not super 'spensive, especially compared to the number of rattle cans it would take to shoot a whole body. Only real drawback is you can't sand epoxy, so you'll need to shoot a coat of primer/surfacer on top of it when you're ready to smooth 'er out. I see Rustoleum primer on the floor; don't use that on the body, you'll regret it later if you end up using a real paint! For that matter, don't use any paint products that come off the front shelves at the parts stores. That goes for Duplicolor (all brands), Bondo, Rustoleum, etc. The hardness and sanding qualties of these finishes leave much to be desired. In some cases, a quality product such as DuPont can actually be purchased for less money.

Here's an example. Take a look at the near-90deg fender crease in this photo:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/jayhawkclint/1970%20CJ5/Randolph%2004JUL2007/HPIM1200.jpg

Look closer. Notice that the paint isn't cracked? I was able to pull the crease out without cracking the paint. In fact, I was able to bend it on 2 more trail rides after this and pull it back each time before it finally developed a little crack there now. (Obviously need to do a little trimming during next round of mods.)

 

Not bad! I have no Orileys around here, I think it must be a mid-west FLAPS. Though, I do have Napa Paint and Body here. Quite different from the regular parts store, this is where all the body shops get their stuff IIRC. They should have it correct? ...even though I don't like going there as one of the employee girls scares me
How much would one need for all body panels of the DuPont product? And any guess on price? And shot with an HVLP or auto sprayer (have both) which should work correct?
I plan on putting the chassis outside and under covers and put the body in tomorrow (under the rear over hang, blocked from wind, and over cover), and spray it as quick as I can. What you say is epoxy it, do all the patches/replacements/ dents I need and then spray any fresh welds with epoxy, then a quality primer from the auto sprayer, then 2-3 coats of what ever color I chose, fallowed by a few coats of clear?
Thanks Clint

 

Yes.

Looks like NAPA sells their own house brand that is manufactured by Martin Senour. Not familiar with that product line. I can guar-own-tee that it'll still be head and shoulders above the rattle can variety, though. Do some research and see who else sells paint in town. Paint prices vary widely because some stores will only give you a price break if you're a body shop. The Nason primers are what I chose for my '70, for example, and the "paint guys" quoted me something like $118/gal when I was buying, whereas O'Reilley's was about $65'gal, IIRC, for the exact same part number. If you decide to purchase it, probably best just to buy in gallon quantities since you're starting from bare on both inside/out, top/bottom, and windshield frame, tailgate, small parts, etc. You'll probably end up with some leftover, but ususally there is a price break at the gallon quantity, so it still ends up cheaper than buying quarts. YMMV.

Also, you could spend A LOT of time trying to get a pristine finish the jeep, but there are a lot of waves in your tub, and that will definitely show with wet sanding. One thing you may want to consider, and this would save you some coin, is to just go with a single stage acryilic urethane. It will still be a really hard, quality paint, and it will buff to a shine, but not an "ultra gloss" like you get with clear coating. I would actually recommend this route as it would be a lot closer to factory, anyway, since they never used clear coat on the original paint.

Single stage:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/jayhawkclint/1966%20Chevelle/HPIM0995.jpg
Clear coat:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/jayhawkclint/1970 CJ5/Restoration Winter 2006/HPIM0846.jpg

 

Frame's painted, POR 15 and Chassis Black
Maybe I need to just special order the DuPont stuff, or just go run down there and ask them.
Thanks again

 

It really is coming along well Sammy!
Lots of hard work there
Donnie

 

Thanks Donnie, but all the hard work was done by hard workers and not myself

 

Work smart!
You would have lost interest hand sanding that monster!
Donnie

 

Indeed! Fully worth $521.02 to have it sand blasted, and for stuff I would mess up, such as the engine and tranny, fully worth it to pay
Just disappointed in the cancer, but that should be easy!
So, should my goal be 0-5% bondo? None at all?

 

The Little White Jeep has lots of cancer and lots of bondo.
Jeep panels were not straght or perfect from the factory, take it as far as you want to but not so far as that you are scared to scratch it afterwards!
Donnie

 

Well I need to get rid of cancer, I fear the spread. But dents and stuff I don't fear, it's like removing a battle wound like someone said in the past. My plan is not to put any plastic on it, that would be ideal for me.
Donnie, what tires and lift do you have on little white Jeep?
I think sooner or later Little white Jeep may have a CJ relative, Little Tan(sand, light brown) Jeep.

 

Superlift 2.5 springs, longer greasable shackles, 7.50x16 NDT's
Donnie

 

Mine will be smaller then Oh well

 

Sammy you tub doesnt look bad at all. The little bend where you fender mounts is common. Go to willysmjeeps.com and you can see why one person thinks it happened. For you floor I dont think I would replace the whole panel unless I already bought it. I would just patch what it needs and install new hat channels.

 

Thanks Bill,
I do have the full floor boards but I can always CL/classifieds/ebay them if needed. I'd rather not go through the hassle of it all, you know?
And for the crease, what causes? I didn't see anything on that website. And if it's there something caused it, so I probably shouldn't remove it correct?
Thanks

 

I believe what caused it was a lazy person trying to get the fenders to line up correctly at some point in the jeeps life. My m38 has a slight bend it is, not as bad as yours. I left mine.

 

Thanks for the words, after this one I think the next rebuild I'll ever do is another jeep. Heck now I won't rebuild this one fully R) I want it to stay good and only modify it
I wonder why there's tons of little holes all over the body too, guess they thought it was a good idea to punch them.

 

My 3A has a slight crease there as well. I don't plan on 'fixing' it. It's stock.

Your tailgate might have a bit of cancer but would be considered pretty much mint where I am, and it looks straight as an arrow. Man I need to move south.

Nice work

 

sry its been awhile sammy, the one i had in the truck isnt the one in my avatar its a 73 i bought from a guy i work with. tub is shot though good frame. progress looks awsome by the way! cant wait to see whats next.