Powermaster Alternator

I have my eye on a Powermaster alt. I think it's a 100/70 or something like that. I know it says that it is a bolt in deal, but how about the wiring??? Is it a direct fit????

anyone else have a Powermaster????

I searched, couldn't find much

High5

 

do you have a delco alternator currently? A factory gm 120 amp will bolt into your current bracket, and cost a lot less than the powermaster.

 

Honestly,

I don't know

 

got a pic?

 

In the thread of my fan install there is a small pic. I will have to check.

Thanks

 

yep thats the delco, a high amp version should bolt right in with no changes except for increasing the size of the charging wire. i looked up 85 corvette and saw a delco 125amp with a v belt for $115 on partsamerica.com
I have the 63 amp version of that and may upgrade also becouse of the extra draw of the fuel injection.

 

The Powermaster one from 4wd.com is 97.99. It's a 100/70 I believe. I am running electric fans(see other thread), will be running EFI soon, and have plans for a winch in the future. Think that will cover me???

High5

 

Let me run this by you and get your thoughts on it....Now, keep in mind I know this is not precise...but I think it would tell him a few things. If he just has a volt meter...and it reads charging (above 12 volts)...say 12.5 or 13...while he has everything electrical in use...lights, heater motor, wipers, etc...I would think that if it is still showing charging while running everything all at once...then he is okay with the current alternator...If it drops below charging...he needs bigger.
I know that this does not tell you the same thing (or even close) as an amp meter...But I think it would tell him if he needed more amps than what he has...Right?

 

The volt meter should show 14~15 volts when the sytem is fully charged and the engine is running. If it drops down to the 12~13v range with all your accessories running then you are putting a bigger draw on the system then the alternator can handle.

You will also see a lower voltage reading after a heavy pull with a winch. The voltage will be low until the battery is back to a full charge.

I run a 75 AMP alternator on my CJ. It is more then capable of handling my fuel injection and all my accessories even at idle. The winch will draw down the battery during a heavy pull but it recovers pretty quickly. Make sure you have a GOOD battery for use with a winch. If it is border line the winch will push it over the edge very quickly. I run an optima red top and have had zero isues with it over the last couple of years.

 

So if it drops down to 13 volts...say...while driving with a bunch of off-road light lit up (for example)...The battery is still charging (because it's 12 volts)...Is the alternator burning up if it gets pulled down below 14 volts?

 

Don't know about burning it up but you are definately running at or beyond its capacity and that tends to wear things out quickly.

 

Nope. The magic # iirc is 12.6 Volts. If the alternator can maintain at least 12.6 Volts and is putting out more amps than is being drawn your battery is still being charged even if just a small amount. If it drops below that then there is too much draw for the alternator to handle.
You don't want to run the alternator to run at max capacity all the time though as it can overheat and burn out. The alternator rating is the max that it can put out, not the max that it should normally be run at. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this but I was always taught that the alternator should not be run constantly any more than about 70% of it's maximum capacity to insure the life of the alternator. Remember also that very few alternators put out the max capacity at an idle. Most require about 1,000 -2,000 engine rpm to spin fast enough to put out peak capacity. With little load on the alternator most run in 13.2-13.7 volt range which is below your 14 volt threshold. Nickmil

 

Makes sense...
Okay...so if he only has a volt meter...and it still reads 14 or 15 volts while driving with all of his goodies on...That would mean that he does not require a higher amp alt right? If it drops down below the predetermined point of X amount of volts where it would be working too hard...Then he should upgrade?

 

That's only part of the equation. You also need to be looking at how many amps the alternator is putting out in relation to how many it is capable of putting out. If it is running near max for more than very short bursts then it needs upgrading..... If not, then it should be fine. That requires an ammeter of some sort to determine. Most parts houses have an inductive ammeter that goes around the output wiring of the alternator to see what actual output is. Maybe the vehicle could be taken in and checked for free there or at one of those battery places that do free electrical checks. If you live near me I could do it for you for nothing....

 

Yes, as long as it is not near max capacity.

 

But...if it can still retain the proper voltage...is it maxed out? If it is maxed out for the time that you are running everything in your rig and is still pulling the proper volts...then how fast until it will fail?

 

Engine running with heater, fans, radio, and light on it stays over 14. The alternator is just on the list of what needs to be replaced before too long. It's been on there since 94.....at least

 

Right...Which I am sure is the case with many of us. I think what is being said is that "ideally speaking"...You should not have your alt running at it's full amperage...So if you have a chance to avoid doing that...then you should take it.
I for one am very guilty of running my alt right up against it's means...I have had no negative results from it...I suppose I could just be lucky.