I burn holes............

For little projects I think you'll be fine with a 110v welder. If you think you'll ever get into doing any kind of bumpers/cage work I would suggest going to at least a 175 or a 210 series welder. As I've been told by more than one person "get a welder at least 1 or 2 sizes larger than what you think you'll need".

 

Not meaning to hijack the thread but what about a machine like this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...70005685856&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1

All in one machines always compromise somewhere but would this be something to look at? I too am shopping.

 

Would I be better off with MIG due to limited expeirence

 

I believe that when we mention a "110v or 220v" machine, we are referencing a MIG welder. At least, I can't think of a 110v arc welder off the top of my head.....

 

Thanks guys, That helps with the confusion and sales hype.Now if I can just figure out the steering swap!!!!!!!!!

 

Yes, MIG is much easier to learn than stick. Both are much easier than learning to gas weld! I've done some of all 3, and MIG is definetly much easier to learn. OTOH, if you can learn to gas weld, you can learn to weld anything. I've got a Hobart 135 MIG (110V) and it's been great for everything I've needed it for. Lots and lots of sheet metal, along with some other stuff up to 1/4". I've got a Linde stick welder (220 amp) that hasn't been used in my new garage yet...no 220V yet (yet). I'm going to re-wire my garage at some point and put in at least one 220 socket. I might do two in case I ever get a really huge air compressor. But yea, a 110V MIG will do most anything the average person will need to weld. If duty cycle is really that big a deal you could go 220, but 110 is fine for most projects.

 

that is what drove me to the 110v Miller, I didn't have to install a dedicated 220v outlet, and I can take the welder anywhere there is a 20A rated outlet and use it.

I have welded some motorcycle frames, bumpers, stuff upto and including 1/4 inch and never had the welder "take a break" on me.

 

With any welder you get what you pay for. The biggest problem people usually have with 110 welders is by trying to use an extension cord. If you have a outlet wired with 12 guage wire and plug the welder straight into it most are good for small projects. Cheap 16 guage extension cords are the enemy. If you must use a cord use a heavy duty 10 guage and as short as possible. Once you have a plasma cutter you won't believe how you ever lived without one. I almost never use the torch anymore. If you live in a humid climate it is best to avoid the ones with built in compressors as they tend to go through a lot of tips due to the moisture in the air. Having the right tools might not make the project, but they sure do make the project go smoother.

 

I used a 110v MIG with gas to build my on-board stick welder. Here is a link to the "weldernator" write-up.

I use the 110v welder for work in the garage on stuff up to 1/4" and use the on-board welder for everything outside (the portability is great). I am not sure what the duty cycle is for the on-board welder but I figure for $15 I can replace the alternator without hurting the pocket book too bad.

 

On plasma cutters...

Basically you got your Thermodynamics and you got your Hypertherm. Both good units, but I own a Hypertherm because (1) The Thermodynamics has about a 1 second delay between pulling the trigger and making sparks. Prolly get used to it, but I don't like it. And (2) Hypertherm has a safety guard on the trigger. Good to have and it's not a nuisance.

 

I agree with everyone that a 110 mig is fine for most jeep steel work. I bought a 210 miller mig with a spool gun after tons of research. It was a little moe $$$ but I only want to buy a welder once. this mig will do steel, aluminium and stainless and it was the smallest welder with all these capabilities. I agree you get what you pay for.

 

Hopefully one of these days I'll have enough smarts to do stuff like Xlr8n. I'll still burn lots of holes. Am looking into a local vo-tec program. Thanks for all the info guys.

 

I actually have a Miller 175 set up for 220. But I already had 220 in my garage and its duty cycle is twice as long as the same unit on 110. While I may never need that extra run time. Its nice to know that its there when I need it.

 

I also went with the hypertherm plasma unit, I got the one that can be run on both 110 or 220. Works like a champ on 110 as long as you don't use a ext cord. I also have a miller 210, haven't found the money for the spool gun yet.
Clay do you use the spoolgun much and which one did you get?

 

I have the 3035 spoolmate. I've used it on the new aluminium floor and it works great other than that i've just played with it on scraps. no stainless yet

 

Harbor Freight sells a 115/230v input Arc Welder. Recently bought one on sale for about eighty bucks, less 15% w/flyer coupon. I have it wired for 115v input. I've been using it to repair the slightly crunchy (not so much now ) frame on my '78 CJ-7. I keep a small 110 fan flush up against the back of the cabinet so I can feel the air passing through the louvres on the sides. I haven't tripped the thermo yet. I'm welding up 1/4" plate gussets and 90 angle iron rear cross member for pulling a trailer, and it appears to be doing a fine job. -K-