1963 Us Navy Dj-3a

Even the factory bracket has issues with the old brake arm. I had to trim the top flange of the frame rail back to fit. I also ground a bunch of metal off my 4.3 block.
Whatever you do don't tap the brake arm side of the master cylinder for remote filler. Tap the front and rear of the reservoirs or make a permanent pressure bleeder lid.

 

With all the fabrication this is gonna require wouldn’t the time be better spent adding swinging pedals?…

 

I know there is limited room under the hood of a flat fender, but there is less room on the frame under the body.

 

There was some hope that this would be a quicker job than wholesale pedal replacement. I'm really trying to keep scope in this project so I can get it in the woods. Hanging pedals may happen in the future, but I just want to get it running for now.

Although I have to say, the older and less flexible I get, the less I want to do anything under the dash. Not looking forward to wiring for that reason.

 

Just remove the windshield and set it on the front bumper. Problem solved.

 

simple Boo, just my personal opinion.

I just love the old-school feel of tractor pedals, school bus steering, three or four shifters, minimal guages, minimal switches.

I like the patina and the old-school mods this rig has. Keep it simple.

 

Just depends on what the intended use is going to be. If your goal is to rake hay with it, fine-keep it it in tractor mode. If it's going to be something you actually want to drive to the trailhead in and then hit the trail with the thought you may actually be able to drive it home, some modifications are highly desirable. I didn't care much for the beneath the floor master cylinders way back "in the day" and personally, would never attempt to keep that arrangement in a modified Jeep. Yes, limited real estate on a flatty firewall but plenty enough for hanging pedals. Actually the perfect place for a hydroboost system.

 

I LOVE my hanging pedals and power brakes in my cj2a. I tried every permutation of on the frame rail mounted dual master. I solved the issues you are dealing with, but I had to completely rebuild the whole set up and install a cable operated clutch linkage.

the hanging pedals are a pain to install. None fit right, require extensive work and time. So will the frame mounted dual master cylinder, but at least with the hanging pedals, you can have power brakes really simple and relatively cheap. I did my best to try and modernize the floor pedals. I gave up.

For the turning issue… I had the same problem. There are 3 indexing flats that are a double spline in the pitman arm. You’re going to need to pull it off the box and file 3 splines into the 3 flats to make it turn in either direction equally.

I love this jeep you have.

 

I don't really have any issues with floor hinged pedals or under floor master cylinders. It's not like you access the master cylinder very often. The biggest drawback to the Jeep floor hinged pedals is that they hang down below the frame and if you end up with the clutch/brake pedals parked on a rock, you may not be able to actuate them. A skid plate is a really good idea and I plan on making one.

Or install a longer drag link.

 

Re: pivot shaft skid plate,
I put big washers on the shaft adjacent to the pedals. Cheap and better than nothing. Then your skid can press up on the washers if needed.

 

Which will slow down your steering.

 

Not pitman arm, I need a longer drag link. It seems best to have the pitman arm point straight back when the wheels are straight rather than clocking it. That way the motion is symmetric in both directions. I just need a longer link from the pitman arm to the passenger steering knuckle so both the wheels and the steering box can be centered at the same time.

 

I should have read for context/ content. My mind defaulted carry on.

 

No worries!

 

Worked a little on the master cylinder fitment issues today.

Hacking at the cowl brace with the angle grinder. A little ugly at this stage:


Looks much better after some work with the flap disk:


Sigh. I was a dummy and nicked the clutch cable the cutoff wheel. I ordered a replacement and a spare from AA:


Success otherwise though. The lid comes off easily now:


The centerline of the master cylinder needs to move up about 1/4" to keep the brake pedal pushrod from binding:


I decided to move it up by offset cutting and flipping the middle portion of the bracket. Marked for cutting:


I bolted all the pieces to the outside of the Jeep framerail for fitting and tack welding:


Tacked:


Welded:


Ground:


Back in the Jeep 1/4" higher and the push rod looks good now:


That's the first two issues addressed. I've got the torch out to bend the pedal arm tomorrow.

 

Brilliant!

 

Pedal arm clamped in the vise next to a straight edge. After the new bends, the top end still needs to be 1-1/4" from the straight edge:


A little heat, a little force and it's starting to take shape. Still 1-1/4" from the straight edge:


After fitting and a little more bending, this is what I've got:


That's a lot bendier that it started out in the first picture.

Now it clears the master cylinder and the engine. The master cylinder itself bottoms out before the pedal hits anything:


The pedal arm and master cylinder bracket are drying overnight so I can install them tomorrrow:

 

From where did you get this kit ?

 

Your doing a nice job.