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1963 Us Navy Dj-3a

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Fireball, Nov 5, 2024.

  1. Jan 23, 2025
    timsresort

    timsresort Well-Known Member 2025 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    South Lake Tahoe CA
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2014
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    1,658
    Very cool. So, like the electric lock I have, just push the pedal then turn the valve? I have always worried about draining the battery, or leaving it on and driving away. I might try something like this, (non-electric) on the new build.
     
    vtxtasy and Fireball like this.
  2. Jan 23, 2025
    T. M.

    T. M. Rubicon or bust!

    Boise, ID
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2024
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    594
    That's interesting. Is that a specific line lock valve, or just a generic fluid valve?

    I like that mounting position. Nice and out of the way on the top and the bottom.
     
  3. Jan 23, 2025
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    Yes.

    I think it's a commercial hydraulic valve, but it is sold by Afco Racing to shut off individual calipers on Circle Track cars to make them turn in better: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afc-40199

    For the $116.00 It seems to be very high quality and I like that you can lock it in either position. It appears to be one of these: https://www.lancevalves.com/product/ls-292t-2-piece-2000-wog-stainless-steel-full-ball-valve/

    Here's a better picture of the slide lock:
    [​IMG]

    I need to get a smaller pin, but I'll probably keep a pin in it like this when offroading:
    [​IMG]

    I like it much better than this cheaper looking valve on Amazon for $70: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006K8KYQ6

    And I especially like it more than these $32.00 aluminum housing Chinese things: https://www.amazon.com/KYOSTAR-Brake-Valve-Billet-Aluminium/dp/B0BM66M26N

    However, ....

    The nicest setup would be a Micro Lever Lock wired to a buzzer or light to let you know if the fluid pressure is getting too low. Pricey though at $340. I think this is what Kyle has: https://zips.com/parts-detail/mico-brake-fluid-lever-lock-02-640-125
    [​IMG]

    My Dad put one of those in his GPW way back in the '70s. It doesn't seem to work anymore, but you can get rebuild kits:
    [​IMG]
     
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  4. Jan 24, 2025
    45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Buckley, WA
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    Mar 31, 2007
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    1,168
    That Lance Valve certainly is not a generic fluid valve. They appear to be very high quality having a 2000 psi WOG (water, oil, gas) rating.
     
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  5. Jan 24, 2025
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    Not much accomplished tonight, but I did get the Tee on the back of the crossframe and the line ran from the parking vavle to the it:
    [​IMG]

    I figured out where i wanted the frame tabs for the rear hoses, welded them on both sides, and threw on a coat of paint:
    [​IMG]

    Next is running lines to them.
     
  6. Jan 24, 2025
    3b a runnin

    3b a runnin Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    virginia
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    Jan 11, 2015
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    1,468
    I like the valve for the rear brakes. Good idea.
    The Mico lock is a really good unit. We used them on heavy equipment many years ago with good success.
    Good progress on the jeep.
     
  7. Jan 26, 2025
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    Got the rear lines ran.

    Driver side:
    [​IMG]

    Pasenger side:
    [​IMG]

    Replaced the clutch cable that I nicked, and cut the throttle pedal bolts shorter while I was at it:
    [​IMG]

    Figuring out where to put the front brake line anchors with a future shock relocation in mind. They will basically end up in the same place, but angled very differently:
    [​IMG]

    The old ones need to be removed. Nice welds:
    [​IMG]

    Almost off:
    [​IMG]

    Both sides are now ready to weld the new tabs on, but it's too late for that tonight:
    [​IMG]
     
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  8. Jan 26, 2025
    Jw60

    Jw60 New Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Trails end,...
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    Apr 8, 2008
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    5,920
    How well are the steering box and tow hook attached?
     
  9. Jan 26, 2025
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    The steering box looks good. Jusdging from the welds elsewhere on the Jeep, I think that was hired out. Looks line the AA frame bracket. I will add a cross brace eventually.

    I have no idea on the tow hooks are. The bolts don't pass through and the frame horns are boxed, so I can't tell. I plan on incorporating new ones in a new bumper or the winch mount.
     
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  10. Jan 26, 2025
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    The tow hook is attached well enough to be a weld ground. That means it should be fine to pull the Jeep up a rock ledge, right?
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Jan 26, 2025
    Jw60

    Jw60 New Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Trails end,...
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    Give me a min to walk up-hill and away.
     
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  12. Jan 26, 2025
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    Just about got the brakes wrapped up today.

    Front frame tabs welded and painted:
    [​IMG]

    Front hoses installed:
    [​IMG]

    Driver side front hard line done:
    [​IMG]

    I think the front passenger line was the harest one on the Jeep. Here it is getting flared:
    [​IMG]

    The hardest part was snaking it under the front crossframe, over the steering gear, and then back under the crossframe. It all clears and nothing rubs:
    [​IMG]

    Used some of my tubing screw up scraps to bleed the master cylinder:
    [​IMG]

    Then I prepped the Jeep for bleeding. I don't want to waste my wife's time during the final bleeding. I wanted to make sure all the bleed screws were working and I could get fluid to all four corners before asking her for help.

    Two bleed screws were seized and needed heat and PB blaster to free up. One was clogged up and needed to be cleaned out:
    [​IMG]

    With a combo of the vacuum bleeder and pumping the pedal, I got fluid to all corners and a little pedal feel. Then there was this:
    [​IMG]

    it was one of the fittings on the parking brake valve. After another quarter turn, it seems to have stopped leaking:
    [​IMG]

    I'm all set to have my wife help me with the final bleeding after dinner tomorrow night. If that goes well, it wraps up the brake project.
     
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  13. Jan 27, 2025
    Rozcoking23

    Rozcoking23 RUN & GET BIT! 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor

    Stockton, CA
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    this is why I bought a power bleeder, so I don’t need to bug the wife for help.
     
  14. Jan 27, 2025
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    I have one of those hand pump ones around here somewhere, but all the hoses need to be replaced and the clamp for the lid doesn't really work with the master cylinder mounted next to the frame.

    Luckily my wife doesn't mind humoring me once in a while.
     
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  15. Jan 27, 2025
    fr8dog61

    fr8dog61 New Member

    West Kentucky
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    Sep 21, 2023
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  16. Jan 27, 2025
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    Sep 17, 2009
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    4,820
    Those are the same hooks I have on my 3B. I milled mounts for those out of bar stock and welded them down to both the bumper and boxed/fish plated frame rail. The bar stock is threaded for the bolts.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Jan 28, 2025
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Got the brakes bled to where they feel pretty good. They may still be a little bit spongy, but I want to drive it around a bit before tyring bleeding them again.

    With the brake project done, I put all the tools away and cleaned the benches.

    Next up is exhaust. Here's the full kit. Just needs a little work:
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Jan 28, 2025
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    I’ve made a few of these now and always end up with a joint under the radiator. It’s not better, just lots easier!

    Someone here suggested a tiny dab of anti seize on the threads and mating surface. I found that works very well.
    Also when tightening back off a 1/8 turn or so a couple times as you tighten.
     
  19. Jan 29, 2025
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    I like this idea.
     
  20. Jan 29, 2025
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2025 Sponsor 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
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    Started into the exhaust tonight.

    It seemed easiest to pull the fender off to get to the very crusty looking bolts on the driver side manifold:
    [​IMG]

    I very much didn't want to break any bolts, so I didn't even try to loosen them before PB Blaster and heat:
    [​IMG]

    It worked. They were tight, but they all came out:
    [​IMG]

    Let's count all the exhaust leaks this side had.

    1) Cracked at the lower back ear:
    [​IMG]

    2) Big ol' crack on the back side:
    [​IMG]

    And finally, the blown out flange gasket. This is why I want to use ball flange manifolds this time around:
    [​IMG]

    The other side has similar issues. You'd have a hard time running an O2 sensor on this for EFI!

    I wanted to see if a rear dump manifold fits. My prior measurements indicated *maybe*. The rear dump has some nice packaging advantages like keeping the exhaust away from the fuel line/pump, so I'd really like to run it.

    It just clears the bulky steering U-joint, but is a little too close for comfort:
    [​IMG]

    However, a lower profile Borgeson joint will give me the clearance I need and the old U-joint has some slop anyway:
    [​IMG]
    After counting the splines on the steering box (13/16" - 36 spline) and the column (1" - 48 spline), I ordered a new steering shaft and U-joints.

    I'll still need to put a heat shield between the exhaust and the steering so I don't cook the U-joint.

    Interestingly, I noticed the ball flange manifolds I have are different than the flat flange ones on the Jeep in more ways than the flange. They are much beefier all around (hopefully less likely to crack) and the exhaust outlet is higher up and in a different orientation:
    [​IMG]

    I was under the impression that this style of manifold was all the same with the exception of the passenger side manifold being machined flat at the flange to accommodate the exhaust crossover flapper valve. I didn't realize there were two very different castings.
     
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