1963 Us Navy Dj-3a

Thanks. My original goal was a much fancier shape for the floorboard, but when I was trying the mock it up in cardboard, I realized it was going to be beyond my skill level and take way too long to make. Slab sides are easy and I figured it would be low profile enough to not look too bad.

In the end end it turned out better than I thought it would. Good enough. On to the next task. I really want to get this hunk of junk running and on the trails, so I'm trying to keep it moving along.

Next items are:

• Brakes - dual master cylinder, proportioning valve, hydraulic parking brakes, hoses, ...etc.
• Exhaust - making a full system that's tucked up high and goes out the back
• Cooling - New radiator, fan, shroud
• Rebuilt the carburetor

Then it should run while I work on EVERTHING else.

 

By Beefy, I think I really mean standard yoke. I had a much more svelte on in my stash of stuff. I' pretty sure I got it from ITLKSEZ, and have no idea what the original application was.

You can see how much less material it has than the normal 1310 front yoke on the right:




The normal yoke and the parking brake rear output housing have interference issues even with the dust shield removed and some minimal grinding on the yoke :


The skinny yoke, however fit fine, so I put it on the back and the big one on the front:


I though about it for a while and it didn't sit well with me having a weaker yoke, or needing a special yoke that's hard to find for the back of the transfercase. I ordered a pair of used 1310 yokes (with dust shields) from ebay.

I also realized after I used my only seals and had already set the output shaft pre-load that I had bought and forgot a D18 no-parking-brake output housing from a wagon or truck:


Note there is much less lip protruding past the seal compared to the parking brake housing. The tape on the parking brake housing below is at the seal level (The tape was there to keep grinding dust out of the housing when I cut the lip down):


Rather than clean up the non-parking brake housing, wait for a seal, find the right length bolts and reset the pre-load, I made my existing parking brake housing match the non-parking brake housing.

It's hard to tell in the picture, but the parking brake flange yoke is about 1/8" longer in the seal area and has a gentle taper above it. Both help it clear the lip on the parking brake output housing:


To sum it up, by chopping the housing, normal yokes fit and I can have a single trail spare that fits in either location. Also note I popped the dust shield off the rear yoke, but it would probably be fine to leave it in place with the trimmed housing.

 

This is great info, thanks for sharing! I never knew that there was a non-parking brake housing either.

Question: how does one pop off the dust shield? I'm hoping to get an easy answer before performing destructive testing myself

 

I just used hammer to gently tap a screw driver under it. Then worked around it. It was pretty easy to get it off without damaging it.

 

Interesting. I thought they were spot-welded on. Definitely going to try and make a Tom Wood's yoke work on the front of my tcase then if the dust shield can be moved easily.

 

Not much to show for tonight. Just the seat frame bolted in:


I need to make some riser blocks for the passenger seat and a bracket to mount the power seat controls for the driver seat before I bolt them in.

 

Had to do a bunch of non-Jeep things today, but I did get the three brackets needed to install the seats done. They are drying overnight so I can install the seats tomorrow:

 

Front seats are bolted in:


They seem solid, comfortable, and the gas pedal situation is much better with the floor hinged pedal.

The shifter bending has worked out great. Everything is between the seats and easy to reach:


Here's the bracket for the silly power driver seat controls. There is no reason to have these, but they were already there I don't want to fabricate all new seat brackets while I still have so many other more important things that need work:


With that, I can call the raising the tranfercase/rebuilding the floorboards project done.

Time for brakes.

 

After getting the seats in the Jeep this morning, my wife, the dogs, and I goofed off all afternoon and made pizza for dinner. I was a nice day but not super Jeep productive.

Post dinner, I put all the tools away and cleaned up the shop.

Here's all the brake stuff that's going in:

• Dual master cylinder conversion - I bought this in the interest of not wasting time fabbing brackets. I'm not planning on using the proportioning valve/brake light block it came with.
  
• Some NiCop tubing as needed.
• A pair of 2lb residual valves since it has disks front and back.
• An old Mopar performance proportioning valve from my hotrodding days. This will probably get mounted on the frame in front of the master cylinder
  
• A mechanical brake light switch I'll trigger from the pedal
• A hydraulic shut-off valve for a short term parking brake. This will get mounted to the floor riser between the seats.
  
• Braided steel brake hoses. In addition to replacing the front hoses, I plan on running individual hoses to the rear brakes and getting rid of the brake line on the axle.
• I've also got some new pedal draft seals hiding somewhere.

That will do the brakes for the short term. Eventually, I plan on adding Wilwood mechanical calipers to the rear axle.

 

Before I started on the brakes, I wanted to see how bigger tires will look and fit on the DJ. To do this I needed to move a bunch of junk under and around the pile-o-parts CJ-2 so I could get the tires off:


The 35 year old swampers that were holding it up are 34x9.50-15 and measure at 33 inches tall. Much taller than the weather checked 10.50x31-15 tires that came on the DJ that measure at 30" tall:


I also have some 1-1/4" spacers to make the rear track come very close to matching the front. I hate the track discrepancy the Jeep has right now with the 51.5" D30 in the front and a 48.44" tapered D44 housing in the rear:


I've not been a huge fan of the 90's looking wheels that came on the Jeep, but I like them better with the lug cover rings off:


Maybe I'll use them but paint them bronze, gun metal gray, or ........black

Thick CJ factory disks brakes front and rear:




ITLKSEZ will love the Jeep with the Swampers on it! :


I'm not going to actually use these 35 year old tires. I'm just using them to check fit and see what size I want to run. I think 33's will be perfect. They will be a tiny bit shorter and a little wider. I like the way it sits and I like the matched front/rear track widths.

More pictures:




I like that I can have flares that cover the tires. I'm not a huge fan of the look of flares, but our gravel roads that are muddy in the winter and throw rocks at you in the summer kind of demand it. I'll need to find some front flares. It would be nice to make them quick detach somehow: