Bringing My 1964 Cj5 Back To Life

fear not, I appreciate the discussions and learn something from each. Glad to have folks along for the ride

 

Same paragraph in my slightly earlier manual. Now, for fun I’ll have to measure the two just to see what mine is. Thanks

 

Thanks for all the input here! My manual has that top drawing, not the bottom brake one - that’s great. Mine doesn’t have part numbers like that and Wording a bit different from years or maybe from models. In mine, “slinger” = “grease protector”. Either way, have to get over fear of a bit of pounding on things, the grease retainer dropped right out after a couple hammer taps. Will add that to my parts list to get!

Only 1 of the 2 gaskets “H” existed on each side. One was paper and interesting the other side is actually a thin rubber gasket. Yet another oddity.

Reading your thread, I caught the comment about loosening the eccentric! The backing plates will get cleaned up before going to sandblast. That I’ll have done at a shop not too far from me. I don’t have the facility or equipment for that work.

Now to the parts cleaning and ordering to be able to put the rear wheels together to move on to the front.

One piece at a time…..

 

Yes, the military has it's own way of wording things. I'm used to it and prefer it. The diagram I uploaded for the rear axle/brakes will be identical to your setup. Not the front brakes though. You'll have different brake hoses and the cylinders will come out of the backing plate I believe at a 45 degree angle.

Yup, the time to loosen the eccentrics are lube the threads is when the backing plates are off. Keep at it and chime in if you need help. Someone will help!

 

Cleaning off some parts and making list of things to get on order. Most of the brake innards except shoes. Maybe eccentrics if I have to hack them off the backplate. So far only 1 of 3 off.

Looking at rear wheel grease retainer replacements. I noticed on mine one side appears to have like a sealed retainer, the other is open. There weren’t any torn up pieces that I saw on disassembly.

Where I’ve found the parts picture from online sources, none show this back side. Is there something special or are the available parts all the same? And who is your favorite source? Pete DeBella has been recommended and saw same or similar parts from Kaiser, jeepsterman and torque king.

Thanks

 

Don't hack them! A 9/16th socket should make quick work of those eccentrics. Soak down with a penetrant of your choice and apply some heat if needed. Easy to reach with this backing plates off.

Just toss those old seals and move on. Don't worry about the backs. The inner part of the one on the right disintegrated long ago. DeBella has good quality seals (I just bought some) and they're US made. I trust him and know his business since the mid-90's!!

 

Previously. On the bearing retainer plate, one looks to have a machined groove or depression in it and the other does not. Seems odd with both having same stamped part number on them.

Catching up. Learned something on this note from earlier. What looked like a groove in one of the rear wheel retainers was actually more shims stuck on the retainer. Soaking in cleaner revealed 4 shims.

 

Not nearly as fast as most, but some catch up. Eccentrics off after a battle and new propane torch. Doubt brakes were ever adjusted.

backers off to sandblaster.

Brake shoes cleaned off, drums cleaned up some. It’s neat to see original part numbers showing through again. Not able to get good pic.

Plan on these is spray rust reformer on outside then black paint.

Needed rear wheel brake parts ordered and received fast from Pete Debella parts.

Then when backers are back paint them then start reassembly of the rear. Then brake lines and move to front

It’s progress!

 

Now would be a good time to separate the drums from the hubs for easier future brake maintenance. Those look
like the original 9" setup.

 

It is the original 9” setup. Would have never thought of the idea, but think it’s work beyond this novice abilities and facilities at this point.

Thanks for the idea and riding along!

 

Now is a great time to upgrade the brakes all the way around.
Do not install larger brakes on the rear unless you are installing larger brakes on the front as well.

 

There are some 11" front backing plates for sale over at the ECJ5 classified. But, I don't think Mike has shared what type of driving he plans to do with his Jeep. For me, 9" stock brakes are OK for most secondary roads up to +/- 40 MPH....at least here in NH where the roads are windy and people tend to drive pretty conservatively. In CA, driving styles are much different! Our informal secondary state motto is 'Common Sense For All' which is, or used to be on road signs when entering the state. Your results will vary depending upon where you drive, regardless, defensive driving, good visibility and sturdy brakes are key when driving our old Jeeps anywhere. Mike, you're getting opposite sides of the spectrum here but Norcal is 100% correct in saying that if you do decide to upgrade, do so up front before thinking about the rears. You could also upgrade to 10" brakes (which is still a solid upgrade IMHO) if your stock rims won't accommodate 11" drums. And don't forget about all of your other components like your master and hard/soft brake lines which rust and dry rot. With a single circuit braking system, things really need to be 100%, including your e-brake. Down the road, you may choose to upgrade to a dual circuit master which many guys here have done.

 

Well maintained brakes is key no matter the size. For the vision you have for this build , 9" seems the way to go. IMHO

 

Sticking with the "stock" approach, but learning - appreciate the tip/approach to consider if I do make that move. Thanks!

 

Sticking with stock for this one. I agree that the well maintained and working brakes are key! When it gets running, it has to be able to stop too!

As I slowly put things back together, I'm learning along the way and while the brakes are the first thing I'm working on (since tires/wheels were off right away) is the brakes all around - and at least some brake lines.

 

I have seen the various upgrade options that some talk about and the kits you can get - larger, disc, etc - but for this one, I'm sticking with the original configuration. It's going to be a local roller, maybe occasional side road or two track but no real heavy or fast stuff. It's days of 8+ hours of travel up/down I75 in Michigan are behind it now - and it couldn't keep up with the flow anyway.

I do think, based on the service manuals, that I have the dual master - but I haven't dug into or under the center of the Jeep yet to confirm what's under there for sure.

Thanks!

 

The tool link took me to the brake line kit - which I really like the concept of that material. But, is this the tool you were trying to point to?

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-...+brake+line+fla,tools,105&sr=1-1-catcorr&th=1

And what did you use for your bending?

Thanks!

 

Rear backer plates back from blaster, along with the rear dust caps. Wait for a bit warmer weather to paint - looking like next week.

Preparing now for rear brake line creation lab - tools and supplies list to get. I hope I can get the other end of those rear brake lines out of the T without hurting the T.

 

Hi Mike, the link you highlighted is the neat tool for flaring, on or off the car, 3/16 line only. You'll need a tubing cutter as well, one below, but there are many to choose from. The brake line (i'm sorry if I got mixed up), you just about don't need a line bender with this brake line~ unless you're doing very tight bends. But if you want to have a tubing bender for your tool box, there's a variety on Amazon as well. Let me know if this answers your question, don't want to leave you hangin

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Mini-Tubing-Cutter-D/dp/B0CG17XCPB/ref=sr_1_12?crid=36R9GRPA14HP1&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.N0C-VnC2RpEnWCJbfxGa7eXJsctm8pctEnpi0xCqJP74Ck_lKL2GE1zB45i8RATDRf1YAdH0_4p8LP-I23izLaZEO58nzJVncXjTGtnzqZ4fGFObHLvctQgyf82dC465B1FgDTQh8stRBdQCI1CLS0pB8ln6EKzuhYyMqSHTMN8kGzfL3kUQiI_lpXJ_L-crBwH2wiOtDgAjOdS3XyZaQ0mWDNEfPKqaGDu8trSa6FQDj3eJIjkUVME2Xv16RlyrZOXSkhiPs8bEAFx07InZUpRGP70rjgIBnxEcnPYntA0.cfW53AMhWttXrCJFFsg1DOMVwBh73ug87Z_mvZChkZs&dib_tag=se&keywords=tubing+cutter&qid=1709756872&sprefix=tubing+cutte,aps,188&sr=8-12-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

 

Flare tool on the list to order - I watched some videos on that and think it will work fine - no vise in my newbie shop (yet) to hold the other styles and it looks not tough to use. Got a nice tubing cutter - similar to your link - from the Home Depot already. And in an old box I had, found a real nice old, very small round file to help with any deburring. From what I read and watched, didn't seem like that material was hard to work with. I thought a bender may help me get closer to the really nice looking work you and Pete had done.

Thanks!