Bringing My 1964 Cj5 Back To Life

From reading other threads, looks like starting my build thread to track and show work is the way to go, so here I am! As mentioned in my "intro" post, I'm up in mid-Michigan, retired last fall and have set my sights on getting my 64 CJ5 back running.

From reading many stories where folks say they wish they still had their original Jeep - I do. Actually my Dad purchased the CJ5 new in 1964. It's been in the family ever since. I learned to drive in this jeep and drove it thru high school years as well. It's got 85K original miles on it and was driven, trailered boats and campers to Canada in earlier days. It was a daily driver. Dad had some mechanical issues at one point and it went into the garage and sat. About a year after Dad passed I was able to get it barely running again for a short time but it needs some TLC and work to get back on the road.

My initial plan is still to get it running and rolling first. New tires and will get wheels redone is first to be able to move it around if needed. Then on to get engine running again. After that, new springs/shocks and a brake job at least to make it roll. And we'll go from there.

It will be interesting - I am NOT a mechanic so I'm learning that as I learn how to work on it. I've been around the forum a lot just doing research and review and starting my education. Open to tips, suggestions and all the experience here - appreciate the opportunity to learn!

 

Welcome.

Cool to have the family Jeep! I own and drive a Jeep that I first drove 55 years ago!

 

Welcome from elsewhere in NH!

I believe I can speak for the majority of us in saying that we like pictures.

 

I agree and love them as well. Working out my learning of the forum and logistics between my iPhone iPad and such. Promise they will come,

 

Remember. The best build’s have lots of photos.

 

Slowly getting going. Wheels/tires off without busting anything. Here is front and back.

Tires are off and wheels to sandblast and paint. Positive comment from blaster about condition! Doing white front and black back as original. Actually found some crayon handwriting inside one wheel.

 

Next when it warms up a little is to open things up and look at brakes.

Found old service invoice from last time it ran which was 2009. Wheel cylinders were replaced and brakes bled. But pedal goes to floor so have to look at it. Education starts.

I’ve watched enough videos to see the process to get wheels off to check it out. Guess I’ll need to shell out for some tools to start my education. Wheel puller, that thin wall front nut socket, maybe some brake spring tool, big wrench for back wheel nut.

some newbie questions. Cotter pins to put back together - hardware item or parts store? What do you use to clean stuff off and then repaint bits at a time where needed?

Goal here is to get back up and driveable again. Then pretty up and fix from there. Not going the show quality restore but working period correct

thanks for watching!

 

Cotter pins - Hardware store or Amazon
Cleaning - I typically use Mineral spirits and an assortment of brushes. Mineral spirits will evaporate - I throw it out in the concrete driveway.
Painting- The cleaner the better. Cheap paint, It wouldn't last on brake parts anyway.
Tools - Go to Harbor freight soon. Buy the biggest toolbox you can afford/fit. You will fill it pretty quick.

 

Got a 64 project on the back burner now. Best way to do is to get it running and driving. Don't tear it all down and then it will sit for a while. That's where I am. Small projects and soon it will be drivable.
Welcome, lots of information and advice to be found here on the forum.


Dave

 

-X2 on harbor freight. If it breaks, it was still cheap enough to buy a second one lol. Avoid their drill bits though, they won't last one job.
-Buy a quality torque wrench (not from harbor freight) that's one thing you need to be accurate.
-This paint is great for most things. Not high heat but great for everything else and the coverage is amazing:
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-239107-Professional-Performance-Semi-Gloss/dp/B0010P63NC
-Just repaint things as you remove them. It'll start to look new over time haha.
-Use wheel chocks and JACK STANDS. If removing the wheels, Don't get under the vehicle for any reason till its on a jack stand (not just the jack) and the wheels are chocked.

 

I'm gonna disagree with some of the above for several reasons:
First, Harbor Freight: Great place to buy things like jacks, jack stands, tool boxes and other miscellany, but not actual wrenches, ratchets, etc. Buy those from a decent store like Lowes or Home Repot, much better quality and lifetime replacement. HF wrenches, sockets, extensions and reducers etc. will break right in the middle of an important job... I had a breaker bar snap and send me flying, wasn't happy. Spend a little extra and get decent wrenches.

Next:

Bad idea! First, the carrier might evap, but it leaves all the grease and crud you used it to wash off wherever you tossed it, to either be walked in by kids or pets, or washed in to the environment. Get an empty somewhat clear plastic jug and an inexpensive oil drain pan along with a parts cleaning brush and a funnel. Pour the mineral spirits in the pan, clean your parts, then pour the used chit into the empty jug. Let it sit and all the crud will sink to the bottom, leaving somewhat clean thinner to be re-used almost forever (which can be poured back in to the original container) . When the jug gets full of crud, drop it off at the local hazmat collection and get a fresh empty. Save old tooth brushes for parts cleaners. Use a pan with a little kitty litter in it under your Jeep if you're rinsing off on the vehicle parts. BTW, Ive been using the same gallon of mineral spirits for over 3 years.

When you're ready to paint, wipe off all the cleaned stuff with a rag and acetone before painting. Rustoleum BBQ black is good enough heat wise for engines, etc. , but exhaust parts will need hi heat stuff. Big cardboard boxes make great disposable, recyclable paint booths. And can be used to crawl under the Jeep as well.
And remember; not everything needs to be sprayed. A quart of oil base black and a handful of disposable brushes will go alot longer than rattle cans! Think axles, frames, springs, and anything else.

Back to cleaning: Harbor Freight does have a corded, variable speed grinder. Grab one with a wire brush and several sets of safety glasses and rubber gloves. And a set of their wire brushes for drills. These come in really handy for extra thick crud and rust. Oh, some dust masks too.
And when it comes to rust, get some phosphoric acid, sold as "metal prep" by kleen strip in the paint department of Home Repot or Lowes. Brush it on with a cheap brush and let it sit. Basically it turns rust, iron oxide, into iron phosphate and is ready to paint, tho you might have to wipe off some residue.

Parts; One word: research, research RESEARCH!!! Just because it's being sold by one of the "Jeep" specialty vendors doesn't make it good.... OR RIGHT! Too many parts are listed "fits 1948 through 1964"; taint so. If you have any doubts, use the collective experience of the forum to find out what works. And don't forget that NAPA and other retailers sell parts, usually at a lower cost. Check out Vintage Jeeper in PA too.

Last but not least is Project Creep! That's when you get in over your head tearing too much apart or buying too many parts and it all gets overwhelming and put off ad infinitum. One thing at a time, bask in your success, move on to the next. Most of all; HAVE FUN!

 

I agree with what Tralehead said.

My father always told me when you buy quality tools you will only cry once.

Also, Harbor Freight's wire brushes for grinders have a tendency to shed their bristles during use which become tiny darts that lodge in your clothing and any bare skin. To counter this I use a leather apron in addition to leather gloves and safety glasses. YMMV

Martin

 

Great advice and echos some others and that is the plan - to get it running and rolling first, then go from there.
Thanks

 

Starts with "buy once... Holds true with parts and and wives

Absolootley, but they last long enough to get the crud off. For my dual grinding wheel, I like the Grainger brand.

 

Wheels back from sandblast and paint. Almost like factory.

Tire order on the list to decide and order now.

Hub puller should be here today and it’s warmer so soon I’ll start looking at rear wheel brakes and condition

 

How are you cleaning and fighting rust in general? There’s a host of rust remover options, then there’s rust converters. What’s worked for you?

Planning to clean and paint ok parts as I go.

 

Re read my above post, but allow me to elaborate:

Prior to using any chems or paints, loose rust must be removed. As above. both powered and hand wire brushes are great, get a variety and don't forget safety gear. Plain ol' sandpaper works the best on surface rust, or you can try ScotchBrite.

Most rust removers are converters. They use an acid to remove iron oxide (rust) and convert to iron phosphate. You can buy the expensive name brand stuff but the cheaper generics work the same. I'm a fan of KleenStrip's metal/rust/concrete prep. About 18 bucks a gallon at home stores it goes quite far. And although it's "watery" , that's good for soaking into crevices and joints. Just don't let it sit on paint, it will discolor! Use a cheap synthetic brush or spray bottle to apply.
Most use phosphoric acid, it works the quickest. EvapoRust uses tannic acid, takes a long time and parts have to be completely immersed; that could get troublesome (and expensive)with body panels. Some old timers like vinager, an acid to be sure but takes forever, really cheap though.

The there's "encapsulators" like POR15. They've got a great marketing campaign, and if you have the money and TIME, it'll work fine. But you must add the UV inhibitor to anything exposed to sunlight or it will degrade quickly. Lots of Yootoob vids on the stuff, praising and dissing. I'm fine with good ol' oil base Rustoleum blacks, like the ones mentioned above, and don't forget to get a quart of brush-on, works fine for axles, springs, under body, etc.
BTW, any paint is technically an "encapsulator"

Of course, if something is rusted through, then repair is your only option besides replacement. Hope you know how to weld sheet metal; it's tricky and an art.

 

Thank you for diving into this in detail! It is easy to get caught in the hype of many of the magic products, particularly for a noob like me. Kleen strip, brushes and such are on the list now. Your reuse suggestion in the earlier post is great, along with the drip catcher tips. As I get things moving, I’ll be adding those tips to my process. I like the simple brush on where you can when painting, and something simple and readily available like good ole Rust-Oleum makes sense.

Yes I already see where the repair is going to have to happen eventually in many spots. Never touched a welder, and don’t have a real shop of any kind, so that likely will be work I’ll have to entrust to others.

thanks for following along and being willing to educate this rookie!

 

Wow that looks great! And authentic

 

Picking away slowly. Got my wheel puller and 1-7/16 socket and put them to use getting the rear wheels off and brakes exposed. No big deal for some but for a first timer I feel accomplished!

I think other than dirty, shouldn’t need new parts, but open to what you might see. The wheel cylinders look good for 13 years of sitting.

Left Rear

Right Rear

Inside of wheels don’t look bad considering

Outside needs scrub, remove rust and paint.

I do believe I’ll have to take apart, clean and reassemble. I think from reading somewhere that I’ll have to fix that right grease protector to put the nub on the bottom.

My plan next is disassemble brakes, clean parts, and reassemble. Thinking about the backer plate, remove clean and paint while I’m here, or will that open another can of worms?

And, wherever I read the tip - regarding put the nut back on loose to pull the wheel so it doesn’t fly - THANK YOU. Felt like an expert when it popped