1968 Cj5 Project

Looks like the same as what's on my stock 27 in the corner. Out with the grinder....

 

Was charging my battery so i could take the new shocks for a test drive.
Figure i would test the alternator for parasitic draw as a source of the battety drain, thanks youtube. Found out when the plug is in the alternator, there is a draw. When its unplugged, no draw. Found out its wired to be on all the time, not just when the key is in the on position.

 

Took it for a spin. New shock's work pretty dang nice, I must say.

There is a vibration happening in the rear end at 45 mph. Think it's the pinion angle in relation to the transmission. It is almost straight but not quite.

 

need to pull the transmission. there is a tremendous amount of leaking between the trans/bellhouse. i fill the tranny and its empty in 3 days. hope its just the input seal. i will also thread seal the mounting bolts. since its off i will also thread seal the bolts on the adaptor that attaches the trans. should have slowed down and done it right the first time, but i really just wanted to drive it!

 

https://stores.partsdude4x4.net/t14-gasket-and-seal-kit/

Just ordered this. Gonna pull the transmission Monday or Tuesday after I get back from vacation

 

seal kit arrived today, and i havent even took the floor pan off to remove the transmission. i am a spectacular procrastinator. no excuses now.

 

I just fought a leak in the front. Check the countershaft…maybe add a bit of the right stuff on it. From what I understand, oil is supposed to come out of the hole in the input gear to oil the bearing and the return through a hole next to the bottom left bearing retainer bolts. If you use a sealed bearing, you shouldn’t need those holes and can plug them.

 

Tranny day. No more excuses.

 

Front input shaft was the main leal culprit. No seal. I cleaned all mating surfaces until they were as completely clean as you can get using gum out carb and choke cleaner.

The input shaft seal is straightforward. The taper on the rubber dictates the metal side goes against the tranny.

What kind of gasket sealer should I use for the large circle gasket?

Should I use oil resistant thread sealant on the 3 bolts?

 

The other main leak is the access panel to the D18 gears. What do you suggest use on the gasket? Copper spray?

Also, should use oil resistant thread sealant on the bolts?

 

I used copper spray gasket for the paper gaskets

 

Almost every single D18 bolt is open to oil on the back side. It's wise to use thread sealant on all of them.

 

Hopefully non leaky transmission is back in place, along with the LUK brand shift fork.

See where it leaks I guess

 

What about the T-18 you had posted?

 

Would that bolt up to the dauntless and dana 18? Better than a t14?

 

I wouldn't do the t18 swap if I were @jeepstar
The cons outweigh the pros. It just isn't the same slow crawl terrain.

 

I'm not looking to swap, and that tranny wasn't mine. Not interested in doing anything but getting this thing driving reliably.

That being said, no leaks on the clean plywood when I got home today. May be different after I drive it and it warms up, but for now, I'm happy.

AA chain clutch conversion, for those that have done it, is it worth it?

 

The AA linkage is fine for a street or light wheeler. If you get flexed/twisted it can bind up pretty badly. More good info here about the AA linkage.

http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/140960/

 

Transmission is all buttoned up and installed. Went for a 4 mile cruise around the block to warm it all up, parked it on the plywood, see what leaks.

The 225 is so much more enjoyable than the 134. Cruise effortlessly at 40mph with plenty more left.

 

The 225 is a great early Jeep motor. Maybe not so hot for 70-80 MPH modern interstate speeds, but great for both the back roads and the trails.