1968 Cj5 Project

You are really killing it...your wallet! I remember when PriceClub/Costco carried Armstrong Tru-Tracs. Loved those tires and worked great on Jeep. Not so good for snow.
A little off topic:
I don't know Star, but looking at your avatar I believe you're smarter than I think...and a harem...of jeeps. Seeing it always brightens up my day. Stay the way you are!

 

Looks like front disks are up next:

 

And then i wasnt man enough to remove brake drums

 

Thats the fanciest air filter iv ever seen! lol you can get any chevy small block valve cover breather will fit that gromet

 

You weren't dog enough to remove the drums? What kit did you go with?

 

Drums are probably swedged. You'll need to cut the swedges. A dedicated tool is expensive https://goodson.com/products/swedge-tools but other members have had luck using a hole saw with a 1/2" ID and no pilot drill. Using liberal lubrication and going slow will probably allow a single hole saw to survive all 10 swedges.

You can also pull the entire hub off and press the lug bolts out in a press but you might damage the hub in the process.

 

I guess I'll start with checking the gear ratio. If it matches the dana 27 from my 1970 then I will do the break changing on that axle. I know it doesn't have swedged drums. Watching YouTube videos it sure seems like a hassle

 

They should fit fine and that would be a lot easier.

 

I possibly found the reason for the cutoff switch. There is a drain on the battery somewhere. My father in-law stopped over and I wanted to show him how awesome running and sounding this thing is, and click...the battery was dead. So now that's on the list of things to address now.

 

Most of the factory V6 CJs have a 3.73 axle ratio, and there is also the less common optional 4.88 ratio. The 4 cyl CJs from about ‘63-up had a 4.27 ratio standard, and optional 5.38 ratio.
Its still best to check because you never know what a previous owner has done.
-Donny

 

Battery drain may be from alternator if single wire delco or the regulator on the original Motorola system

 

Getting there.

 

OK...I don't presume to know anything, but it appears your caliper bracket is clocked wrong. Not sure if the calipers will even work in that
position. I don't know what kit you're running, just something ain't right. I am not sure what your plans are for this and curious why you didn't
do the knuckle stud conversion while things are apart. Jeep creep.

 

Yes, should be at 9 or 10 o'clock on right side.

 

I'll have to double check. I'd swear I put it so that the bleeder valve on the caliper was pointed up.

Last time I swore I had 5.38s I actually had 4.27 gears in the axle, so I'll check this again

Thanks

 

All good plans! I find it always easier when I have to do the 2nd and 3rd time.

 

I was doing the driver side disk brake conversion and it just started puking gear oil out the end when i pulled all the drum brake stuff off.
i decided screw this axle, ill use the one i rebuilt a few years back. Save some time and get this jeep on the road again soon.
Just need to check gear ratios....
This dana 27 is geared at 3.73 per the tag, but figured I'd Crack the diff cover and confirm.
Pleasant surprise. I've got a locker in there.
Looks like I'm replacing some inner axle seals this weekend

 

The calipers fit better behind the axle on our stuff but as long as the bleeder is up and clear they will work the same. A lot of calipers are left and right only due to the bleeder location and the casting has both bosses.

That fluid looks like it hasn't been changed since the gears were put in. A little metallic and yellow from the marking compound. Definitely a good thing to change and toss a magnetic drain plug on it.

 

I actually swapped orientation, as pointed out by vtx. Caliper bracket is at the 10 o'clock position

 

When I remove the carrier to install inner axle seals I just pull it out, put it in the exact same, right?