1968 Cj5 Project

4 new to me wheels and tires, free.

 

And today I picked up a smokey yunick intake for the dauntless

 

Tires were a bust, they were on my buddies 1990 jeep, wheel pattern was off. 5x4.5. Listed on marketplace for 200 bucks, some guy asked if I'd trade for a shotgun. I have about 50ish guns, wasn't really interested but then I thought how long might I need to hold onto dry rotted tires? It's a new tri star 20ga. Didn't need it but the rims and tires are now gone.

 

Now I'm a body guy. FIXED! tail lights are wired and ready to go, I just didn't have a 4.5" hole saw to get them mounted. Cheap round recessed lights. But I'm ready for shakedown runs.
See what the engine needs, if anything.

 

Done

 

Nice Job there. Now, If you could find a chain sleeve / cover......... it would be ' Perfect ' BTW, I also like the thru hitch duel exhaust pipes. Pretty Cool

 

Probably gonna bolt it. It's so far down on the list at this point

 

Now to address the driveline vibration.

*The transfer case points up 5°. Used the ebrake as my surface mount.

*The rear axle points up 5°. Using the lowest flat tab as my reference point.


*Shim in the rear axle, .75" thick at the front/ high side.
*when the angle finder is on the front winch mount plate, it's at 0°.

Other than a new driveshaft with CV joints, what are my options? Shakes at about 30mph.

 

I would shim it up more till the vibration goes away. My 2a has a spring over so i made the axle pointing way up above the t case which they say you are absolutely not supposed to do. But it doesnt vibrate at all. I only get up to about 45- 50 though

 

Mistake. T case is pointing down 5°. Not up.

So removing the shims from the axle, ideally would achieve this?

 

View attachment 93346

 

Weld grind repeat.

 

Not sure why I'm doing this. Most likely putting the drive train in my orange jeep this winter

 

how else you going to enjoy that new shop

 

8° axle shims arrived. Installing shortly, then off to see if it improved driving vibration

 

1 step forward, 13 back.

 

Started on the passenger side. Took off the ubolts, the centering pin nut snapped the bolt off, went to my auto guy, bought 2 new ones figured the other side is bad, the pins were 5/16. Tried to oversize the holes in the spring pack, snapped a brand new bit off in the pack. So....move to driver side, figure I'll fix the frustrating side after I cool down. Nuts will not come off ubolts. Cutting ubolts off is the only resort so now I need ubolts. Most likely won't fit because for some reason new ones don't fit the spring plates it seems

 

The d30 and tapered 44 u-bolts are about .25" wider than a d25 and d27 u-bolts. The bolt diameter is also a factor.

Those high clearance plates norcal69 has are slotted and work with the larger diameter bolts d27 or d30.
Some assembly required but what's another dozen steps backwards.
Just tighten them down as the u-bolts stretch and settle.