Serious Off Road Suspension

Anyone running serious off road axles and suspension? Thought about going 2.5" lift to get a front dana 44 axle or d60 to make it more off road compatible. Yet don't know what I may need, anyone have ideas on parts and cost? Already have 225. Engine.and 33's on 15x10

 

Wasn't sure what I have now would be able to over anything larger than a large curb. I put PS conversion and have an inch between my linkage and the leaf Springs. And heard the D27 wouldn't be strong enough. I'm not going rock climbing but somethinge smaller than MOAB. So may need a bit more "flex" with my suspension and axles. D30, would I have to change gearing? Both axles? Steering?

 

My 71, has 3.73 gears in both front and rear axles. My front axle was changed to a dana 30 back in 2005 and has an Aussie locker in it with a power lock in the stock dana 44. I have power saginaw in it with disk brakes up front, still run the stock clutch cable and 10" rear drum brakes, I also have a Rancho 2 1/2" lift and run 31x10.5 MT tires all around. this Jeep will flex awesome as should any of these jeeps from about 1975 and older. Mine has gone everywhere I have ever asked it, to Tellico 4 times, Stoney lonesome and several other places mudding and rock crawling without problems. I drove it 225 mile to Tellico twice, wheeled it and then drove it home. You certainly don't need a dana 60 in the front or rear or a dana 44 in the front to do anything within norm for a jeep. The WW2 jeeps were basically the same as these were and they went everywhere without a lot of problems.

Your jeep if its in good shape, even stock should go just about anywhere within reason and probably shock you at its capability while doing it.

Please don't take offense but how old are you and what is your current jeep experience?
It sounds like you don't have much experience jeepin or have never owned one of the older jeeps.

 

I'm 37 and have been on rough terrain with jeeps, I don't take offense to the questions, everyday is a learning experience. I'll try to get a pic of my build. It's currently under body work and fixing my steering. But I can show the linkage and whatever else I can get posted

 

I do 2.5 with hydro shocks. Rides smooth
But when my tire drops, it hits the tie rod link. Flipping it could be a solution but don't know thexactly effects it could do.

 

I initially wanted to stretch mine and go soa on 37s but so far my 10 leaf packs and 31s have gone everywhere i need to. Scrubbed the bottom once on a creek edge but just enough so that i will replace the 31s with 33x10.50s when the need arises.

I would suggest wheeling it as is until you get stuck or break it and then upgrade as necessary.

Disc brakes, power steering with a tighter turning radius and efi of some sort would be nice eventually.

 

One of my best and most capable wheelers was my '70 cj5 with v6, t-18, d18 w/od, 25 front & 44 rear with 5.38s and really tight LSDs, power steering and minimal lift and fender trimming to clear 33s. The springs were mixed and matched from old spring packs. Lots of thin springs as opposed to a few stiff ones. It embarrassed a lot of high-dollar rigs and was (almost) impossible to roll. It handled fine on the road. My 3b has wrangler spring-over, and while it would out-wheel it, the road manners just aren't the same and driveshaft angles are not desirable.

 

if you learn how to drive what you got the older CJ5's, 3's, and 2A's will climb trees if you want them to.

 

I would address the issues one at a time. Tie rod interference has been discussed a lot here. I suggest you post more pictures of your steering and tie rods, and ask for suggestions. With a 1-piece tie rod, a Wagoneer right-side knuckle works well, with two holes in the steering arm. This knuckle was used on all the full-sized Jeeps before 1974, and some other models (Commando? Utility?). Pretty easy to source.

Also your u-bolts should be cut off with about 2 threads protruding beyond the nut. The way they are now, they will get you hung up on obstacles and be bent over, so you'll never get them off without cutting the bolts (cutting the bolts is very dramatic - they cut through with a bang).

 

Adding caster shims to get the right angle will make it easier too steer and add clearance to your tierrod tube.

 

Yep. Have you had the alignment done? Essential after adding lift springs IMO. Your local tire shop can do it for about $50 ... tell them you know they can only adjust the toe-in and center the steering, but you want the printout from the machine. This will tell you how much added caster you need. Mike (Mcruff) is a master machinist and makes excellent steel caster shims, and has helped many of us on this board with these parts.

 

I'm also trying to figure out why you have a jam nut and a clamp for that tie rod end...

 

I Bought the tubes from tarry, the u bolts I replaced and have not cut them yet. I'm going to have my alignment checked after winter since I have done a few changes. Especially wother upgraded brakes

 

You jeep is more than capable as is. The D 27 is fine for your 31" tires, as stated above the dana 30 is the common upgrade, the dana 44 would be fine but finding one the correct width is challenging. As for the clearance between your tie rod and springs, remember your tie rods travel with your springs so that clearance should remain fairly constant throughout the suspension travel.

Bubba