Alyssa's '65 CJ5 Navy Jeep

Good tip.

Are these easy come buy ?

Thanks,
Jim

 

Jim,
They're only easy to find if you don't need one right then. There is another active thread on the list right now about these old single reservoir MC brakes, and forum member Warloch replied he may have an extra cap. PM him or put an ad in the classifieds if it turns out you break yours off.

Best recommendation is to convert to a dual reservoir split MC system. Look on Herm the OD guy's site. You will be much safer with separate front/rear brake systems, more important Alyssa will be much safer.

Don

 

Did you test the line from the TANK to the FUEL PUMP?

If there is a leak in that line, the fuel pump will not draw fuel from the tank. So it has to be both CLEAR and AIR TIGHT. This is why I suggested SIPHONING from the tank, through the hose to the pump. If it won't siphon, it is plugged or has a leak.

 

Agreed Don and thank you.

Is there a modern MC that will fit the factory location/pedals ?

 

I did use compressed air to force it from the tank-I will try the siponing.

Thanks again for all the help-I need it.

 

I believe R&P sells a dual master for the through the floor pedals.

 

Yes in kit form. There is special bracketry, etc. involved. There is Herm's kit and R&P's kit. I suggest getting some reviews on both before choosing one over the other. I just installed the R&P kit and it was extremely simple to install as it was engineered to be and works very well. Everything lined up very well. Peace of mind with the dual reservoir system was worth it to me. The kit was very complete.


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Thank you - Is this it?

http://shop.rp4wd.com/product/willys-jeep-cj-dual-res-master-cylinder-conversion-kit

Isn't this a old Ford MC?

Thanks,
Jim

 

Question - Does someone have a part number /where to buy for this fuel pump (Pic below) ?

Also-Does someone have a pic to hook up the windshield vac lines?



Thanks again for all the help and helping me make this Jeep safe for my daughter,
Jim

 

Wilwood is aftermarket, not Ford.

 

Got the top off and the MC was bone dry.

Filled it and pumped a lot of air out. Didn't have time to bleed the brakes but that is next so we can drive it around the 3 acres.

We will see if it leaks or not.



I put a little wheel bearing grease on the threads.



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All lines clear-blew w/air.

When I blew air in the tank to check the line to the pump fuel came out-but also some fuel came out of the sending uint seal.

If the sending unit is not sealed, will that cause the pump not to work?

Is the pickup at the bottom of the tank and if so then the question above is mute, right?

Thanks,
Jim

 

The seal for the sending unit to fuel tank will not affect fuel pump operation.


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CLEAN THE WHEEL BEARING GREASE OFF RIGHT NOW AND THOROUGHLY!!!!!

The petroleum in the grease if ANY gets in the brake fluid will damage all rubber components in the brake system.


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Thank you on both accounts, didn't know that.

 

What weight oil do I use in this engine for winter/summer?

What oil is recommended and is a Zink additive needed?

And is this the F134?

Thanks,
Jim

 

Also got my daughters '65 Navy Jeep running after 7 yrs.

Sorry, I said the rad cap was a gas cap etc-been a long day and that is 3 gallons of fuel.

[video=youtube;qiYh2qLg7_g]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiYh2qLg7_g[/video]

 

Throttle linkage problem.

[video=youtube;l0x32OOVWAk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0x32OOVWAk[/video]

 

What does this go to/hook up to.


Thanks,
Jim


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Ok, looking at the brake lights-well, they don't work.

Headlights work, rear running lights work when headlights are on, BUT, the front parking lights do not come on when the headlights are on. They do come on when the light switch is at the parking light position.

Also, this Jeep does not have a turn signal lever to on the column.

Does anyone have any idea on the brake lights/is there a switch that is supposed to be engaged when the pedal is depressed?

Thanks,
Jim