D18 rebuild started........

I used a different case and speedometer housing. Then I just added shims until I had the end play right. I didn't measure my shim pack.

 

Ok. So, I started with 2 thick shims and 2 medium shims. Should be around .082. Installed rear bearing cap, torqued to 30 lb/ft and smacked the bearing cap a couple of times with a hammer and wood block to seat the bearing. Checked endplay at less than .001. Figured that might be a little tight so, took it apart, added a thin shim (.003), repeated assembly process as above, checked endplay at between .004 and .005 but, notice now that I can wiggle the shaft back and forth. Check this wiggle at something like .005 - .006. Sooooooooo, took it all apart, removed the thin shim in the hope of fixing the wiggle and that the sealant will add .001 to the endplay. Repeat assembly process as above. Endplay at .001 and I can still wiggle the shaft back and forth, though, not as much as before. I can hear it when I wiggle it. Did not measure the wiggle this time. What's going on? There should be like NO side to side wiggle, right?

 

I set up my last transfer case at .001. Worked fine. .005 is good also.

 

It's the side wiggle on the shaft that concerns me. Is a little bit to be expected or, should there be NONE. I checked the side wobble again a few minutes ago. With .001 end play, the side to side wiggle is down to like .002.

 

With a tapered bearing you will get radial movement with axial endplay, I.e. side to side movement. I like to set them at about .002" endplay. Never had a failure doing this. Make sure you check it with the yoke or flange installed and torqued properly. I also check them without the seal installed.
Make darn sure the front output is fully seated in the front output bearing and the tapered bearings are seated fully on the rear output shaft.
Again, take all your measurements with the yokes and/or flanges installed and torqued properly.


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Ugg. OK. I'll have to install the yokes and check again. I was hoping I wouldn't have to do this since none of the instructions I have read say to do it but, I've heard it twice, now, from experienced pros, here. Guess I'll have to wait to finish up until my new torque wrench is here.

How do I make sure the bearings are seated. I believe they are, as much as I have tapped on things during the assembly. Everything seems to spin smoothly and all the gears appear to line up well.

So, torque the yokes on, check it out, take it apart, seal the shims and install the yoke seals and yokes.......in that order?

The more I thought about this, laying awake last night, I couldn't understand how there could NOT be some radial movement. But, I thought I read somewhere that there should be none.

 

Yup. That's the good thing about following this procedure, it sucks the bearings tight on the shafts. Don't be surprised if your endplay readings change quite a bit with the yokes torqued in place. Sometimes they don't, but frequently it makes a big difference.

Edit: I use older, used nuts for initial setup then Install the nuts I plan on using for final assembly. The threads can wear on the nut if removed too many times as they are softer than the threads on the shaft.


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OK. Thanks. I hope she doesn't lock up when the yokes go on since I'm at .001 now, before yoke installation. Wonder if I should throw that .003 back in before installing the yokes.

Project may be in a lull for a bit until I get another torque wrench. Just don't trust my old Craftsman anymore. It was acting/sounding strange last time I torqued my lugnuts. I just don't trust it, esp. not to 220 lb/ft on the yoke nuts.

Got some Permatex spray on copper gasket maker stuff.

34.33 per speedi sleeve. Ouch. I'll see if I can find them cheaper elsewhere.

Sorry for all the junior questions. Maybe it will also serve to help another first timer later on in a search.

 

Check Rockauto. Have sleeves priced from $18.77 - $26.79 ea.

 

Are the National and SKF brands of equal quality?

 

If you're talking about the repair sleeve not sure. I always use Timken as I've had good luck with them. I would think SKF should be ok. I like National seals but have had problems with National/BCA Bower bearings.


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Yea, the speedi sleeve. Rockauto has them at $26 and change from SKF. National brand is around 18 bucks. Haven't found or looked for the part from Timken. There's also an off brand, like Chicago Rawhide or something. SKF and National are both stainless steel. Pics make the SKF look polished and the National not. I don't know if Rockauto is a FLAPS in some parts of the country but, they are not around here so, I'd have to have them shipped. NAPA lists them at 42 bucks and the local bearing supply house is the 34 dollar option.

 

Chicago Rawhide is a very old USA company. Should be no issues there.
Rockauto is an on-line retailer of parts. They keep their prices down by selling in volume, just like Summit Racing.


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Thanks, Nick. Local auto parts store I checked with today found the Timkens for me at 26.00 each. Sounded fair, keeping my dollars local. Gave them the green light to order. Organized all the left over parts from the 3 other cases today. Took all that stuff back to storage. Garage is getting cleaned up. Might start messing with the T18's while waiting on parts/tools to finish the transfer case.

 

Just for reference the 18 transfer case I built today with a Tera 3.15 low range kit required .062" in shims. That varies of course.


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Yea, I don't know why, I just feel like I've got a lot shim in there. And I may have to add some after installing the the yokes, as you mentioned. I can't say I know, really, so I guess I'll just roll with it. I didn't really pay attention to the ones I took apart since I knew I would be starting from scratch, anyway. I'm anxious to get this whole package put together and in the JEEP. Unfortunately, that's a while off.

 

Hang in there. You will get there. Just keep plodding along and next thing you know it'll be done.


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I'm stuck at the same place as wheelie. Checked the end play with the same shim pack as came out of it before rebuild. End play at .001. Put on the copper spray and the cap that has the speedo gear and brake lever, backing plate and yoke, washer and nut. Tightened the nut to 100 ft/lbs and -------------- nothing will turn. My self and a mechanic worked on it for hours and can't figure out what's going on. One obsevation I have made is the nut does not go on very far before it stops. The shaft the nut is on is still inside of the nut. ???????


Maybe you can help me while wheelie is getting his torque wrench.

Julius

 

Ordered the speedi sleeves today. Timken brand. Should be here in 10-14 days. No hurry since I can't move ahead until the wrench gets here. Thought, today, about putting seals in the 'case that's currently in the JEEP but, quickly realized that I'd need to torque the yokes on it as well. Scratch that. Spent the day cleaning the garage up (ok, that took 15 minutes), laying out the yoke wrench on a piece of 1/4" steel, cleaning pieces and parts, and packing for shipping. Sold my Walker 4 ton floor jack, too.

Julius, I don't know what could the issue you describe. I think the shaft doesn't protrude very far past the nut when everything is tightened down. A few threads stick out is about all. I wouldn't think the shim pack thickness would keep the nut from tightening down properly. I would think there is some other issue with that. I can see the shim pack, if it's too thick initially, locking the case up when you torque everything.

 

I got so frustrated with my D18 I through it in the truck and dropped off at Novak in Logan Utah.