D18 rebuild started........

Got this far today.



Not as difficult as I made myself believe it would be. At least, so far. Have to put the rear bearing cap on and set it up, tomorrow.
I am also trying to decide which front yoke I want to use. I know I should probably use the small one (since I'm running the V6). But, I'd really like to use the larger one so that all the u joints will be the same and I won't have the hassle of trying to find that odd little dude somewhere, someday, in a pinch. What say ye'?
Lastly, I am going to have someone cut out some metal for me, in the shape of a wrench, so I can make a yoke holding wrench for torquing the yoke nuts down. I'll make one for the large yoke and one for the small yoke.
Oh, one more thing. I used Lucas assembly lube to hold the needle bearings and thrust washers in place. The stuff is junk for this purpose. Next time, I'll try the cold petroleum jelly. That is all.

 

Wheelie. Glad to see your doing this. Way to go! Hope my influence helped. I know you will get this done. Thumbs up to you.

 

Yea, Scott, you made me get to it after seeing how quickly you did yours. I spent a lot of time looking for NOS parts with very limited success. Then clan up, etc., and a lot of lazy. Figured it was time to get moving. Still gonna take a little while to finish up, with making up those yoke wrenches and, I really should replace my torque wrench. Plus, I spend a lot of time second guessing myself anymore. Not sure what that's about. Probably because I've been out of service for a bit and lost my motza a little but, I'm coming back around. Thanks.

 

Yup, petroleum jelly for the home assembler is the only way to go. It will melt on hot days with body heat though. Damhik.

I'd use the standard (larger) yoke. Stronger u-joint, readily available, more likely someone else would have a spare on a trail run, and you don't have to carry two different sizes of spares. I'd also recommend using the Spicer 153x u-joint. They seal very well, are very strong, and last a long time if maintained. I abuse mine very hard and have never had one fail even when the driveshaft twisted like a pretzel on rocks. I carry one spare and a few cheap ones as "giveaways" for other folks on the trail to get them home.


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In a pinch a pipe wrench with a cheater pipe can work for torquing duties. Wrap the pipe wrench jaws with electrical or duct tape to keep from scoring up the yoke.


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I've used the pipe wrench/pipe in the past. I like making simple tools like this so, I'll probably go ahead with it. I should thank you, as well, Nick. You've been a huge help through this prolonged event.

Only reason I was considering the smaller u joint, I recall some type of issue with the larger one rubbing on the V6 models. But, I think with my lift and stuff, the larger one will not interfere anywhere.

 

My dad's stock '69 will sometimes rub the front driveshaft on the starter if you get it twisted up, even with the small front driveshaft. With a lift, that shouldn't be an issue. Don't forget you'll need a bigger front axle yoke!

 

Check out amazon.com and search for "pinion yoke wrench" for various types of wrenches and ideas to fabricate. You shouldn't have to make two wrenches for the different size yoke, one with slots should do. The flat plate type with slotted holes is great, because the plate bolts in place and can stay on while you check pinion bearing preload. You can also leave it on in place while you pull the yoke back off if you have to change shims when trying to get the correct bearing preload. The flat type are made from 1/4" steel plate.

 

During my SM465 conversion I changed to larger yokes all around with 1310 ujoints. Like Nick said, stronger and no need to carry different sizes.

 

Dave-
I went to the large joints in my 2A with the V-6 when I put a Dana 30 in. With a 2 1/2 lift I never had a problem. My stock height 69 CJ5 rubbed the starter all of the time.

 

This doesn't seem right. This is as far as the rear bearing race will go in. It's out of the case by about 1/8" to 3/16". And there is no movement, endplay, that I can feel in the shaft. I tried tapping on the end of the shaft with a block of wood and hammer, to try to send it toward the front, so I could tap the race in further but, nothing is going any further. I did not install the bearing retainer and draw it up. Just seems wrong. What's going on here?


Everything seems right from this view.

 

It's been a while since I rebuilt my D18. Look at the bearing cap. Is it recessed for the race? I can't remember...

 

Shims?

 

Yes, the cap is recessed. My initial shim pack is gonna be like .081 (.071 measured gap + .010 suggested by Novak for initial try). I guess it's just more of a gap than I expected. I expected to start somewhere in the .050 range.

 

Some of it can be tolerances in bearings, sounds like the front bearing should be fully seated by now.
You might set it just slightly tighter than spec, I found that you get a thousanth or two from the gasket sealer in the shims.
Then again, I've been up for 40 hours so I might not be all here.

 

So, .071 sounds right---ish?
40 hours? What were ya' doing? Plowing snow?

 

Insomnia.
0.071 is possible ... What does the old shim pack measure to?
You need to put it together like the fsm tells you to.
Go out and drive it sort of hard and then check it again.

 

.081 could be right. There is a recess in the bearing cap for that bearing protrusion. So you'll be fine there. The block of wood idea is what you want to do to seat the front bearing into the shifter housing. Now just keep adding shims until you get the .010 end play. I set mine at .004 using a dial indicator. I bolted the yoke on to use as a handle for this. Once set, remove the parts and seal the shims.

 

It's not going in right away. I have to rebuild a T18, buy a new clutch, fab a new cross member to hold it all up, and maybe driveshafts, And, as slow as I am, who knows when.

I assembled this case from parts from several other cases, as well as other outsourced NOS and used parts. Trying to build a good, tight case. As much to see what one feels like, as any other reason. I could have put it back together with it's original parts but, most of them were worn beyond what I've read, and been told, are acceptable tolerances.

I will say this though: I've kept the case I was running intact, for reference. Some of you may remember that the nut and threaded end broke off the rear output shaft last spring. It had been rebuilt by a local shop, maybe 10,000 miles ago, tops, when I first built my JEEP. It worked fine all those years, on and off road. Shifted well, etc. but, had some trouble staying in low range. I used a bungee to hold the shift lever back in low range. After seeing some NOS parts and good used parts, and learning what good parts are supposed to look like and measure, I am disturbed that the shop rebuilt the old case with the worn parts left inside. Not that it didn't work okay, mostly. So, I am hoping this rebuild will yield a nice, tight case. I could have spent another 150-200 on a NOS rear output shaft and another NOS gear but, chose not to as I've already spent a reasonable amount on it so as it is. I found an NOS sliding gear and front output shaft clutch gear, the Novak rebuild kit, and several good used parts like shift forks, etc.

Lynn, yes, I am twin sticking it and have installed the Novak kit. The JEEP has always had a single stick 18 in it. I used a large hole, late Dana 18/20 case, twin stick set up from a case I had laying in the garage, saved for this project, for many years. I am losing the emergency brake and using the truck style rear bearing cap as I will be using later model 11" rear brakes w/ emergency brake set up. And finally, I am going to install a girdle to further strengthen the case. I need to find some NOS or very nice, used, knobs for the sticks and sell a kidney as I need to fund the completion of this and the whole T18 thing. And I need a new torque wrench, to be sourced very shortly. Come on tax return!!!

So, I am going to proceed with the .081 initial shim pack set up and see how it goes. I don't have an "original" shim pack set up since I built this from several cases and other parts. I've been following Moses Ludel's instructions for the rebuild sequence, and relied on the writeup on Willys tech, and the knowledge of several board members, and the folks at Novak and R&P. I figured I'd get in the groove with the Dana 18 before attempting the T18 transmission.

Oh, and the OD since the 4.88s went in.....that'll be another expense.