painless wiring harnesses

i got a reply from EZ wiring, they have recommended a loom and given me a freight quote.
there price is very reasonable. it will be about $225 landed in Australia. which is good, everything i try to buy from the US the freight is horrendous, (like $55 USD freight for a fuel filler grommet) i will be defiantly buying the EZ harness. when i get to fitting i will post a thread on the progress. if there looms are as good as their service i will certainly be recommending them to anyone who asks.
thanks everyone for you input:hurrican:

 

Great deal!
I used EZ and was very happy with the product and customer service.
On a different note....I sell a number of things on Ebay. If you can get companies to ship via USPS it is much more reasonable overseas than most other carriers.

 

Running the wiring harness down the right hand side is easy. I ran mine down the right hand side because I mounted my fuse box on the right hand side just to the left of the glove box, it kept it away from the heater and all the cables. It made a lot of things easier due to the battery and alternator location. The harness is all run inside the tub under the door lip and thru a grommet in the rear of the wheel well and down to the tail lights.

 

New style of Passenger ejector seat?R)R)
Nickmil

 

I put a painless harness in my 57 chev p/u (in avatar). piece of cake. the best thing about the painless harness is the wires are not only color coded but labeled with to and from destinations. my mistake was i got the biggest one they make thinkin g it would be easier to add circuts after the install. In the 5 years since i put the harness in i have yet to add 1.

 

The ez wire also seem to use heavier gauge wire, or they have a thicker insulation than the painless.

 

I am in the process of making my own harness from a modern fuse box kit from www.rebel-wire.com. The kit has enough wires, color coded throughout, etc... for 9-circuits plus 3-additional circuits for later needs = $150. Their 8-circuit kit is $133. I am using a sheet of peg board to layout the old harness on as a template for wire lengths, plugs, and such.

 

If your still around do you know of any places to get the good butt splices and bullet connectors, preferably solder on connections? I plan on rewiring my CJ with an EZ Wire harness. thanks

 

I solder where ever I can, but everyone has their methods.

 

Solder connections are weaker and also are the first place corrosion will start. Comes from the flux or not getting all the flux off. Check any factory wiring harness aircraft or car the solder connections are kept to a minimum. Good noninsulated crimp connections and heat shrink are the only way to go.

Retired F-15 Avionics and active Jeep addict.

Lenard

 

Ijust ordered a 12 circuit do u use all the same plugs from the old wiring or can u find new v6 225 1967 cj5 thanx george....

 

I did automotive electrical work for 14 years. We soldered and heat shrunk? everything we could. I can not remember ever having trouble with a soldered joint but we were constantly having to repair the crimp joints.
As far as the flux damaging the wire, this will only happen if you use an acid core solder which is a big no no in the electrical world.
If you are not good at soldering, you can buy connectors that allready have solder in them and heat shrink around them. These are very easy because you only have to heat them with a little torch but they aren't cheap.

 

I don't mind crimp connections either, I really like the ones that have heat shrink integrated into them. Now does anyone have any links to a good crimping tool? The one I have is a piece of junk and I don't really trust it for anything. I plan on using a weatherpack kit when I rewire my jeep with an EZ-wire harness so I guess I'll have to get a specific crimper for those connectors anyways too.

 

This is the crimper I use on the job & on my vehicle connectors:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_30080-12704...+Electrical+Hand+Tools_4294821045_4294937087_