Should i replace this gasket? what ould it be called so i can look it up.

I found it at Tacoma Screw and Fasteners...Pretty sure you won't have one near by, but it is a general fastener/tool specialty type store....

 

Torch and paraffin wax. Heat with a torch, melt on the wax. Do this several times then let sit overnight. Works much better than most penetrating oils.


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napa does list it...not sure why you would pay freight from walcks when its readily available from the parts store?

 

ordered it at napa today, should be in tomorrow, thanks everyone, i'm sure i'll be back soon i'm doing an engine swap this weekend so lets cross our fingers.

 

Might try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Separates quickly, so mix up enough to fit in your pump-spray oil-can. We all have those in our garage arsenals, now don't we.

Evidently the acetone will quickly seep into the threads of the rusty/stuck bolts or studs and nuts, drawing the ATF in with it, which will then lubricate all the threads. The acetone evaporates very quickly

 

I second the vote for heat

 

I say don't touch the manifold... why risk a broken stud.

 

my dad told me about all these problems he went through when he had everything mechanical rebuilt on his 46 2A

 

Heat, then cool cycle. Old Millwright trick.
Heat the nut on the stud up to dull red heat, try to minimize the heating of the manifold.
Let it cool completely.
Then use some Kroil, or PB blaster.
You can apply the wrench almost immediately after the penetrating lube, this just helps prevent the threads from galling.
The heat/cool cycle causes dimensional changes that physically breaks loose the rust.
For obvious reasons, on heat treated parts like hubs, etc. you probably want to use this approach with great care.

Don