Keep or ditch 6v system

i have a 53 cj3b i just bought for $475 and i'm starting work on it, should i keep the 6v volt system or ditch it, i need to replace all my lights and guages anyway but it had a generator that would have to be re wrapped for 12v. what are the 6v systems like?

 

Ehhh, there's 2 sides to this story. Downside to 6v is dim headlights by today's standards and maybe, slow cranking. But, 6v systems worked fine for a lot of years in all types of weather. 12 volts means better parts availabilty, brighter lights and, if you go with an alternator vs. a generator, ease of maintenance. Kind of a toss up and personal preference.

 

If you stay 6v you will be SOL if you ever need a jump from somebody. If your liking to stay original then by all means do.

 

I think this comes back to the usual: what are you going to use the Willys for? If your plans do NOT include a completely stock restoration and drive in the parade only, by all means go 12V, especially if you plan to rewire at some point. You can get dropping resistors for the gages but the only one you need to worry about on yours will be the fuel gage. Amp gage will be fine and the other two are mechanical. If it has a heater, the blower motor should be changed out but you might also be able to find a resistor to handle that amperage. The starter motor should also work but short cranking intervals only. I have several old tractors that I converted to 12V and still have the 6V starters. Have yet to have a problem with those and some of them have been converted for more than 2 decades.

From winches to stereo/radios and everything in between, from a functional standpoint, 12V is better than 6V.

 

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I believe you can get inline resistors for 12v gauges in 6v apps.

 

There really is no practical advantage whatsoever to have a 6 volt sytem. Unless a Jeep is in perfect shape with all original equipment, there really is no point to replacing broken or missing parts with 6 volt pieces.

 

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I believe 12v generators from later Willys vehicles bolt on. Then sell the 6v unit. Plus it looks factory.

 

I dunno, I like the 6V system on my '49. Has never let me down. Put an optima red top in and you'll be fine. But YES, get a title first. I'm having problems with that right now with my '49! Should have done that before I got it road ready.

Having driven jeeps with both, I do like the 12V halogens on my '53, but that one I drive the most. However, it will be cool to pull up somewhere and say, "yep, she's still sportin' the 6V system" to people.

 

yeah, titles can be a pain, mine hasn't been registered for the past 30 years and the last change of hands wasn't recorded so i'm going to have a circus getting mine. if i have to i will just part mine out.

 

what duffer said
go 12v and never look back

 

The only things that would have to be changed out are the bulbs, coil, fuel gauge, sending unit and charging system. Being a 3B though, I don't know if the the gauge cluster is the typical flatty 5 gauge cluster or the big CJ speedo.

 

A 53 will have the same gages as the 2A and 3A. I believe all 3B's had the individual gages through 56. If you put a drop resistor on the fuel gage, it is not necessary to change either the gage or the sender.

The resistors are easy to find
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Runtz-12-Volt-to-6-Volt-Reducers,2374.html

 

The 6V starter can take the 12V IF you don't crank it for a long time. This is what I do on my '53, but that things starts right up anyways. The optima will last quite a long time. I cranked my '49 for a while (probably a few hours, not straight though) trying to get the fuel pump to prime. I haven't had to charge it either since I got the jeep in February.

 

nice thing about the optima is its a sealed battery, no leaking

 

Actually, Optima's do have vents and are not sealed. The chemical (acid) is absorbed in the mat and lead so there is no free acid. They are not a "gel cell" battery but an AGM battery.


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