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Can't get the front wheel bearings tight enough

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Stout, Jul 14, 2012.

  1. Jul 14, 2012
    Stout

    Stout Member

    Quakertown, PA
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    The FSM says to tighten the front wheel bearings until the wheel binds and then back off. However, even using a long handle ratchet, I can put loads of torque on it and the wheel does not seem to bind. Should they really be that tight? Aside from using a cheater bar and putting all my weight on it, I can't get it any tighter but yet the wheel doesn't bind.
     
  2. Jul 14, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    I wouldn't do it until it binds. Torque about 30-50 lbs ft while rotating the hub is plenty then back off and adjust. This seats the bearings and races and squeezes excess grease from between the bearings and races.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  3. Jul 14, 2012
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    To me, it doesn't seem right that you are unable to bind the wheel bearing? Are you putting the thick washer between the bearing and the big nut when tightening? Did you check that the big nut would screw all the way down on the threads (bottom out).
     
  4. Jul 14, 2012
    Stout

    Stout Member

    Quakertown, PA
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    It has been a long time since I put the thing together but everything was there according to the FSM diagram when I assembled it. I just noticed that the left front wheel was shaky so I knew the bearing wasn't tight enough.
     
  5. Jul 14, 2012
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    I'm with Walt-something isn't right. Even if the races/bearings were mixed from 25/27, they should still easily tighten up-long before you needed a cheater bar.
     
  6. Jul 14, 2012
    Stout

    Stout Member

    Quakertown, PA
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    OK that's what I needed to know, I'll take it back apart and investigate. Thanks all.
     
  7. Jul 14, 2012
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
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    Worn bearing could cause this. Are yours new?
     
  8. Jul 14, 2012
    Stout

    Stout Member

    Quakertown, PA
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    Yes new bearings and races.
     
  9. Jul 14, 2012
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    There are two different inner races, a thick and a thin version to correspond with the early/late front hubs.

    I've never run into this, but I suppose if you had a hub/race mismatch you could run out of threads on the spindle before you seat the bearing into the race.

    Not what you wanted to hear at this point, but if you pulled both front hubs again and remove the inner seal you will see it pretty easily if one is mismatched and the other isn't. The good news is it is an easy fix to drive out the incorrect race and install the correct one.
     
  10. Jul 14, 2012
    Stout

    Stout Member

    Quakertown, PA
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    Good thought, I'll take it back down and check it out.
     
  11. Jul 14, 2012
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    There is about a 1/8" difference in the thickness of the two types of inner races. The thicker one sets the hub further out toward the end of the spindle.
     
  12. Jul 15, 2012
    djbutler

    djbutler Sponsor

    Rio Linda CA
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    Yes, I suppose this could happen. I recently ran into the opposite end of this mismatch. When I attempted to thread on the outer lock nut, there were no threads left on the spindle. I had the early hubs and bought the later (thicker) bearings, so I had to get the correct late hubs to get it back together.

    Don
     
  13. Feb 3, 2013
    IA2003

    IA2003 Member

    Ewa Beach, HI
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    Perhaps I have the incorrect size race. I really h ave no idea what I am doing with wheel bearings but I am installing a disc brake kit on my Dana 27 and cannot get the races to seat far enough into the hub. Because of this, I cannot get to the threads to install the nuts. Any ideas?
     
  14. Feb 4, 2013
    cookieman

    cookieman Member

    Colton,Calif
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    Anyone have pic of inner bearing and how it fit? I have the same problem,but I have brass bushing instead.
     
  15. Feb 5, 2013
    IA2003

    IA2003 Member

    Ewa Beach, HI
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    I would love to see a photo of this as well.
     
  16. Feb 5, 2013
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Should not be a brass bushing for the wheel bearings.
    Soundsl like a later model wide bearing and race in an earlier model narrow bearing and race hub. This would push everything out too far on the spindle.
     
  17. Feb 7, 2013
    jeepers24

    jeepers24 Acreage Brush Beaters

    Port Huron, MI
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    Just thinking out loud, but make sure you are adjusting the wheel bearing with only the first nut. If you have both on there, they lock against each other and you will not get an accurate adjustment.
     
    Shad Rogers likes this.
  18. Feb 7, 2013
    jeepers24

    jeepers24 Acreage Brush Beaters

    Port Huron, MI
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    Disregard previous post. I guess I didn't read the whole thread... :oops:
     
  19. Feb 7, 2013
    cookieman

    cookieman Member

    Colton,Calif
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    What i thought was a bushing was what left of bearing,the P O use the wrong bearing. The bearing WAY too big. It just bang around on spindle.
     
  20. Apr 18, 2013
    69Willys

    69Willys Las Vegas, NV

    Las Vegas, NV
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    Stout, did you ever resolve this problem?

    My FSM goes up to 1971, but I have a 72 D30 up front. I installed my wheel bearings according to the 66-71 FSM, but I couldn't get the wheel to bind either, wound up torquing to 50 lbs-ft, then backed off a little and installed outer lock nut. The bearing I used was made by SKF, PN BR35. Does it sound like something's really wrong if the wheel won't bind up?
     
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