Hydraulic clutch stroke

I have been messing with my clutch for a few days now (weeks really, since I can't get to my jeep every day) and I have come to the conclusion that the stroke on my clutch is too short. I have the Speedway Motors clutch. The site says about 1" of stroke and I measure 1-1/4" Has anyone used this slave?

I see that the Wilwood and Hayes slaves are 1-3/8" stroke. Is this enough stroke for a stock T90 clutch fork?

Thanks for any input!

 

I finally got back to my clutch and first I rebuilt the plate I had it bolted to thinking that it might be flexing under the pressure. I then had someone push the clutch in and out and I watched the plate. It doesn't flex at all.

So, I figured that I wasn't getting enough pull on the clutch so I would need to drill a hole closer to the bellhousing to increase the fork movement. I took the floor cover off and for some reason I cannot for the life of me drill a hold in the clutch fork. I am having a hell of a time even getting a punch to make an indent. Are stock forks hardened steel or something?

The reason I started with the plate is because the clutch was working when I first put the hydraulics in. So I figured something changed or moved over the time I initially drove and now. Is there a special way to bleed the clutch or maybe there is something obvious I am missing?

 

I am using braided line by the slave and when I bled it I took the slave out. I think that the braided line was smooth and fairly straight, so any air bubbles should have been released.

I was thinking it might be the clutch, but it worked before I did this change just fine. I also had someone depress the pedal and I watch the fork, there doesn't appear to be much room for the fork to travel beyond where it goes.

 

Hum i maybe out of subject a but did you change you're clutch the same moment you putted the hydrolic system? I'm asking that because when i did my hydrolic clucht conversion i changed the clutch at the same time and i mounted the clutch backward so it doesn't wanted to disengage...i first tought that i wasn't having enought stroke.

 

No, didn't touch the clutch. Just mounted the hydraulic set up to the bellhousing.

 

ok sorry i'm out of subjet !!

 

I've had issues with bleeding clutch systems in the past. This may or may not pertain in this case but on real difficult ones (Ford in particular) I force the fluid through the bleeder in the slave upward into the m/c. This forces the air in the direction it naturally wants to go, up.
I'd definitely follow Warloch's advise though and check travel of the arm vs. travel of the slave cylinder.

 

Ok, I will try bleeding from the other direction. Maybe that will solve the problem. The bummer is, this worked the the very first time I drove and a few times after that. Then it got worse and worse.

After I beefed up the slave mount, it went into gear again no grinding first shot. After that it would gind. Something has to be moving, I just can't figure it out.

 

I was looking to upgrade to hydraulic clutch. but was not sure where to get parts from or if i should pick my own from a yard. could anyone help me on what I may need to convert my current clutch to hydraulic on my 66' V6 cj5

 

I used slave and master from a 81-84 jeep cj with the 4 cylinder engine. Work perfect on my t18 and been running since 4 years now without an issue.

 

master out of an 80s cj slave i used the novak kit

 

I have a 83 CJ7 in the pick and pull, think that would work for the MC and Slave cylinder? And what about Power Steering as well?

 

I used the hanging pedals from an early 90s Cherokee, Speedway master cylinder, and Speedway pull type slave cylinder.

When I had issues I tried to find a solution without taking the transmission out and looking at the clutch. So, when I finally did, I found the issue.

I was using the Novak adjustable throwout bearing here:

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/clutch/adjustable-throwout-bearings

The two pins you see in the picture hold the bearing at a set size. The two pins I used had chamfered ends and they came loose which allowed the bearing to spin while engaged. This in turn shortened the bearing so that when i pushed the pedal, the stroke couldn't make up the difference.

 

This is a great thing to look out for.I will be using that same T/O bearing real soon with a hydraulic setup.

 

i have many 90's cherokees at the pick and pull. You suggest pulling the whole shebang, clutch pedals, MC, Slave Cylinder or speedway something different? and Why the T/O bearing from Novak? I guess I don't understand why?

 

I chose the cherokee hanging pedals because there are a ton of cherokees at junk yards. I also used it for the brake booster and master cylinder. It fits decently under the hood. I was also in a rush trying to get the jeep running before a house was sold. After a very quick mock-up, I knew the hanging pedals could fit and would swing at the right height (or at least what felt right).

In hindsight, I wish I had figured out a way to get the brake pedal on the right side of the column, closer to the gas pedal. The only issue I would run in if I moved them is the brake booster would hit the valve cover.

Point is, make sure to take your time when mocking this up. If you can, get the pedals clamped in there, hop in the driver seat and see.

The T/O bearing from Novak is awesome, just make sure to cut the chamfer off the pin before inserting it. Novak may have changed the pins they are using after I worked on this with them. You can also put a little threadlock on the threads if you are concerned. In the unlikely event something go wrong, Novak's customer service is amazing.

I like that bearing because they don't make a lot of the gm bearings anymore and this can be adjusted to match any one of them.