What to do first

So I have a 75 cj-5, original renegade with the 304 and I want to do a couple of things to it:
1. Get a new tub and get the body looking good (no rust). Dont care much about paint since it's only trail rig with street user to get top the trails.

2. Want a 360 or maybe just 360 heads. just compete overhaul of the engine bay.

3. Compete new wiring on everything, (and its got a 76+ steering column)

4. A good 2.5" suspension kit

I already have the tires, and front disk conversion. I am just wondering what you guys think it's the next best thing to do. and in what order should I do things.
Any help, or past experiences would be much appreciated

 

Wiring after the new tub. Then you don't have to do the wiring, remove it to put in the new tub, then re-install it. Beyond that it is up to you.

 

Thats some great thinking, and your right, so, will leave the wiring after new tub. What about engine, before tub? After wiring??.
Also I think that suspension it's not sup much of a project and it doesnt take that much time.. So maybe it will be the last thing

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk

 

Hum don't touch the engine instead of putting a complete 360 (bolt-on).
Here a couple thing you shoudl think about....
-hydrolic clutch conversion
-New Clutch
-Brake booster
-Full roll cage
-winch
-electric fan

The best way to do what you want is to do it all in the same time.

-You took off the tub on the frame for a new one or you repair it.
-Change engine component while tub is off (easier to do)
-Suspension will be easier to do without the tub in place.
-re wire the tub after beeing paint
-Put the new tub on the frame
-Finish to rewire everything and turn the key for a ride!!!

My 2 cents...

 

Safety, safety, safety. Make sure brakes and steering are in good working order first. Then roll bar minimum. After that it's up to you.

 

I don't believe 360 heads will work on a 304, so strike that off the list. The valves are too large and contact the cylinder walls.

 

They can with machine work to the block.

 

Brakes are good, well, need new master cause its slightly leaking, but... Its only that. Then again, got to get it before new tub and paint.

And about the engine, im thinking of getting the full blown 360. I think it's going to be about the same amount of money so...

The sad thing is, that I live in Puerto Rico and parts over here are not so easy to get, and coming from the states, they kill us with the shipping

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk

 

Yes, good working order first, then modify. That means brakes and steering.

IMO the 304 is plenty of engine for this chassis. I don't see any need to go to the 360 unless you already have the 360 engine and your 304 needs replacing. That said, the 360 or 401 are the cheapest path to a big performance boost. But most owners would be happy with the 304 - these are not sports/race cars.

Certainly I would think about a different transmission and/or axle gears before I considered swapping to a 360.

 

Actually my 304 has already a problem, think its a rod or a lifter, so thats why Im thinking of the upgrade. Since I'm going to open the engine up and gonna have to rebuilt (maybe buy new) almost every part; thats why I'm thinking of the 360

And what tranny and axle gears you think would be best to marry to a 360??

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk

 

As far as transmission options go, I'm in the middle of researching for myself. What I've gathered from books, these guys, and other setups that have worked for other dudes there are a handful of good options to swap in. There are a few things you need to take into consideration if you plan on swapping in.

The length of the transmission (including the adapter that you'll most likely have to use)
If it is much taller than your original then you'll have to fabricate or alter your trans tunnel for inside your tub and the transmission crossmember
Depending on how much lift you put on, you'll need to pay attention to your driveshaft angles. Especially with the increased length of the trans/adapt. combo
The gear ratios will need to be in sync with the transfer case you use, otherwise you'll have too high or too low of a gear without a comfortable middle

The ford t-18 and t-19 as well as the Muncie SM420 and 465 are the most common swaps for CJ5's that I've seen. Most of the others are too long. Another plus is that all of those transmissions are 4 speeds with granny gears.

The link that anybody on here will tell you to look through is http://www.novak-adapt.com/ on the left hand side under knowledge there is a wealth of information about what works and a summary of information on each transmission.