Considering a V6 swap. Best donor nowadays is??

I am new here and I'm rebuilding a 51 3A. I'm hoping to end up with something I can drive to town as well off road on the farm. I'm considering an engine swap because my L134 is just too slow and weak.

Anyway, I've read up on the different sites about what works. I've been looking around and decent donor cars seem hard to come by. I'm open to anything that is not too expensive or too difficult.

I was hoping for some recent opinions -- with the current economy -- on what realistic options are out there for a more powerful motor.

Thanks.
Phil

 

I know most people on here like the V6's, but I remain a steadfast small block chevy fan. Not much more of a problem to install, pretty much dirt cheap (compared to about anything else), very functional, unmatched ability to build it in just about any configuration you want, and hands down the best and cheapest aftermarket support of any engine platform.

 

Mainly depends on how much available power satifies your needs.
Read about Jim Allens torque formula..........
http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b/Tech/EngineDyno.html

134 Hurricane
153 GM I-4
181 GM I-4
198 Fireball
225 Dauntless
231 Buick

Beyond 231 frame modifications should be seriously considered.

 

my cj5 got a chevy v6 because i was concerned about cost and going back to original someday, no cutting, no hammers to the jeep. just an early form of the 4.3 that is carbed as to not need anything new in the fuel system.
i did need a remote oil filter, short water pump, mustang radiator, long trans input shaft, bellhousing adapter, motor mounts. but everything was available and it was only down for a month, mostly for the transmission parts.
everything sbc is cheap when it comes to stock parts, i agree v8 is not much more work but the 4.3 family is all i need.
my next engine will be a 85 4.3 from a 5speed truck; it is carbed, hei, 168tooth flywheel, and i believe 150hp 160tq stock.

 

I have much easier access to a chevy V6 compared to a dauntless. It just sounds like the dauntless is the easier route. Thanks.

 

Maybe an Astro van? Seems to me there are lots of 4.3L Chevy V6s out there, and many people have used the 4.3L with great success. The Buick is easier because of the front mounted distributor... but from what I've read, the 4.3L fits pretty well. Personally, I think that factory TBI is a big plus in the 4.3L Chevy's favor.

 

If you can find a rusted out factory V6 CJ5 or Commando it will be by far the easiest swap. (probably cheapest also)
Most V6 jeeps also came with 3.73 gears which work real nice for driving on the street and low range will still be enough grunt for driving around on the farm.

 

Find an early CJ5 or Commando, should be able to get one for under $500 Can swap tranny, engine mounts radiator etc right over. easiest and cheapest by far and a great little engine. Lighter then the 4 cyl. and twice the power with tons of low end grunt. Sure there's lots of other options out there but the:v6: is the best I've found.

 

Looks that way. Thanks.

 

What do you do about the computer for the tbi 4.3 chev?

 

Add a vss, correct fuel pump, sort out the wiring and run it. Or change to carburetor, change the distributor, add an electric fuel pump, and go that way.

 

As you, I wanted to improve power and performance in my flat fender jeep. You have received much good advice. For some of the reasons noted such as body lifts (Warlock) and marching to a different drummer, I chose a Chevy multi-port 60*v6. It is a modern day motor that provides good power from idle to cruising down the highway. You have the option of using nearly any transmission with a GM or Ford bolt pattern by sellecting the correct factory bell housing. I think it provides as clean an installation any of your other choices.

Pictures if you want,

Ed

 

I am currently in process of doing a chevy 4.3 and turbo 350 in a cj2a. I did have to add a body lift to make room for every thing under the hood (not a big deal since the hat channels on the tub needed replacing and I am using a m38a1 frame). My motor is a 86 and has a mechanical fuel pump/carb so no computer at this time need. If you end up looking for a older 4.3 I would get a 86 newer (even fire and one piece main seal). If I end having other problems I will let you know. Good luck. Also 45es I would like see pictures you can send to amcesario@charter.net.

 

4.3's were all even fire except some oddball marine engines I've seen. The pre-cursor to the 4.3, the 229 was a "semi-oddfire" used in cars. It wasn't a true even fire but wasn't a true oddfire like a 225 Buick. A 4.3 can be installed without a body lift if carbureted, low intake manifold, and small distributor, without cutting the hood. It's tight but can be done. Much easier with a body lift.

 

Not to hijack, but I'm also considering a 4.3 swap... What radiator is everyone running with their 4.3's? Is the stock radiator up to the task of cooling a 4.3? I am pretty sure I've seen a lot of them cooling the 225/231's?

 

3.3L (200ci) and 229 are semi odd two piece main seal
85 4.3 should be even fire and two piece main, 86+ are evenfire and one piece main,
here is everything you never needed to know when junkyard diving
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f107/the-holy-grail-of-4-3-info-131868/


289 mustang radiator bolts in, the stock 4cyl lower radiator hose is on the wrong side
short water pump (don't know if you can on balance shaft engines),
underdrive crank pulley if needed for radiator hose clearance
remote oil filter to help clear ross steering


early 5s don't have much more hood length only height and width?

 

The 4.3 fits nice, if i did it again i would cut the grill inside a bit and move everything forward a couple of inches. This radiator is 289 or 302 ford mustang