Green Hell...the Never Ending Project

Hum, i got a friend who fab them. I just bring him some 8 inch wheel, he welded the ring on it . With the price i paid for rim, i have a total cost a 320$ for everything. That include rim (50$), bolts and nuts (30$), ring (200$), valve (40$)

This weekend i'm looking forward to install the summit heater fan, we have extreme weather last few day and i have a headache about defrosting my windsheild.

 

So time for a little update.

After a complete year of wheeling i'm realy happy about my new Hd frame, ain't get a problem yet.
Did about 30-35 day of med/hard off-road and i can say i score the right set-up!

Flex ramp test, dont know my rating but i have about 33 inch between ground and tire.




I manage to smash my bus rear light so i decided to go with led light into the body so trees wont destroy them



i did install a small led bar, i don't like the way i mounted it, would prefer it between roller and the roll bar. The power of the light is insane with led bar.





Also i decided myself this spring to install a heater unit from summit. I took the vintage air gen 2 (506101) from summit racing.
Now i have 3 option of air rooting , air temp and 3 speed motor. For the moment i love it, pretty quiet but i will need to wait for winter to get a good feedback on the defrost performance.


Now i'm working into a sollution about the loosing bolt on front hub. I only have this problem on snow condition, need at every time i took the jeep to tighten all six bolt. During summer time i never experience this issu. Been reading over some forum about this issu and seem that " Nord lock " solve the problem. Just order some yesterday and i'll get them in a few days.

Actual pic of the product


i'll be back with the rewiew of those since i've done some test (need to wait for snow)

 

I solved the problem of the hub bolts coming loose buy using studs with nuts instead of bolts. Haven't had any problems since.

 

Yes i read about that, but i'm a little bit afraid because if you break stud i wont be able to get them out as easy than the bolt. Whem i break bolt they stay lose in the hub and pretty easy to get them.

 

The reason that the bolts break is because they get loose, then the hub slams back and forth and the impact breaks the bolts. I had a problem with bolts breaking also, no problem with the studs though. I used blue Locktight on them after cleaning out the holes with brake cleaner.

 

Make sense, i receive my nord lock, i'll give them a try. If they fail i'll try the stud sollution for sure.

Thank's for advice

 

So after some wheeling i had to change a broken axle shaft, and i can say that the nord lock hold pretty good. There wasn't any loose on them so i figure i solve my problem for the moment.

 

Glad to hear it johneyboy03.

 

Hi guy, new season to come, new project for the jeep. It will be the only major project for me this year. Since this is completly different from my coil spring project i decided to do a new project post for this.

So basicaly the project start with a afi kit (affordable fuel injection) that was originaly built for a amc360 2bbl. Major reason for going trought this swap is the cold temp start. Having a manual choke on the 2100 it gave me headache all over this winter (we had a very cold winter this year) so this mod is now a must for me.

Him gambling on this project because i got this kit for 250$, a brand new kit from afi will cost me around 2k shipped to my door so i'll give this kit a chance. Also there the fact that i'm very not confortable with electronic stuff but i'll give a try.

Here's what I've got

Tbi unit
Holley blue fuel pump (max 14 psi)
Map sensor
Temp sensor
Cranking sensor
O2 sensor
ECM and wiring harness
Adaptator plate for motorcraft 2bbl to tbi.
















Only thing that is missed is the temp sensor (the electrical plug is there). I ordered it from napa, 15$ total.
Also i will need a threaded bung for the O2 sensor that i will get at muffler shop this afternoon.

The only issu i find for the moment is about the distributor. In the kit there is a tach filter wired to it (see picture below). I'va read over the pass week that ic an use my stock large cap Hei with some mod. I will need to use a 7 or 8 pin module to replace the oem 2 pin. Also i will need to lock in place the mechanical and vaccum advance of the hei dist. I send an e-mail to AFI about this, but it think that i will run the tach filter by now and do the 7-8 pin move later this year.







I'll bring more picture and info as the project get going.

If some have advice don't be shy to share it always good the get help along the project.

 

I just did the swap on saturday. Took me around 10 hours to complete the set-up.
After lot a research about the kit i have i can say that it only control the fuel. Kit from affordable fuel injection (Afi) was programm with a tach filter, so only need to hook one wire to the negative post on the distributor coil (or tach signal from hei dist). I can in the future if i want to give the ecm the controle of the timing, i just need to swap a 7 or 8 pin gm module on my dist an order the right chip for the ECM from Afi. All the swap went pretty good since i did all my research and i get all the necessary hardware before going through it.




Left, carb motorcraft 2100 2 baril.
Right throttle body injection.






Here the tbi installed with the adaptor plate on the engine. I keep the two barrel intake for the moment. I want to keep the budget as low as possible for the moment, i want to make sure everything is going normal so eventuly i could make a 4 barrel intake swap.





The throttle linkage doesn't need any mod, it hook up the same place as the carb use to..




The big part of the swap is the fuel line and electric pump. The best would have been to swap an in-tank oem fuel pump but i will give the holly 14 psi pump a chance. I mounted it with a 3/16" rubber to reduce noice and vibration from fuel pump.



Here the tbi with all wiring, fuel line, vaccum hook-up to it.



Map sensor need to face down, so the best place i found for the moment is under the air cleaner. This way i get the shortest vaccum line possible as suggest in the installation book.



Since i dont have the oem heater anymore, it leave lot of space for ecm to be mounted. I needed to drill a 1 1/2" hole on the firewall for the tbi harness.




After installation and final check-up, engine start at the first time, everything went right.

For the moment i really like the tbi improve. Engine run smoother, good gain in power, and best of all, it start easily on cold temp. This morning is was -4 f, just turn the key, wait two second for the pump to prime up, and it start-up pretty easy. No need to hold the throttle, tbi does it all.

Next week end is election day ot our local 4x4 club, so it will be his first real test in a off-roading situation.

 

disregard.....

 

??? sorry My first language is french so i'm not sure what is you're intention on you're word.

 

Very cool swap Johneyboy! I have heard that a Chevy 4.3 will also work and is an easy swap to my even fire. I have thought about this for years but my 2 barrel works really well. I will watch this thread to see what you think of the swap. Keep us updated.
Thanks

 

Nice johneyboy. You are really going to like it when you get off-road. Congratulations!

 

Yeah, had my first off-road run on saturday. Engine run way better, smoother and i can feel a gain in hp and torque.

I wasn't disliking my carb, but the cold winter we had here bring my patience to the limit, so when i got offered this kit i wasnt able to let it pass.

As for 4.3 tbi, i think they are the same unit (ecm/tbi).

 

So i'ts been a long time that i post something here.
I decided redo the complete wiring on all aux i put on the jeep.
I've put the electric fan, aftermarket fan, radio cd, radio Cb, Arb compressor and tbi.

So as you can see the wiring was a big mess and i was shy to open the hood

 

So i ordered a complete 7 aux circuit from painless wiring. 4 circuit on ignition and 3 that has always 12v on it.


With that i bought everything i need for a clean job

 

So i removed all the wire that wasn't oem and started to bring new wire.
All connector are heatshring one, and i had some heatshrink tube over just to be sure connection are 100% sealed.



I decided to put deutch connector for ease of dissasembly in the future. So those two connector are for all my aux in jeep.



So here what engine look alike now. It's not a showroom style but it's done the right way to make sure i wont have electrical problem in the future.

 

Has for the dash, i wasn't having any warning light. With tbi i needed to put a light somewhere so i decided to go like that.
The left red light is alternator warning, the center one is for when i turn off the fan (good to have something to tell you to not forgot about them) and the right one (yellow) is for the engine light.

The template under it will need to be change, it was use for the heater (never had the oem switch)


Another thing i dislike on the jeep was at night, i dont have any dome light so i was always using a flaslight to find thing. I put led stripp in the middle of my costum roll bar so i can light it if i need.



Also i put some led strip under my front lower roll bar for dash illumination. I can shut it off with a independant switch and i was able to put them with the Oem light switch so i can dim them.

 

Now i'm working on making the "4 wheel drive " indicator in the dash to work. Jeep cj's with dana 20 don't have thins fonction but i may have find a way to make it work, more detail to come.