Novak D18 upgrade oil pan and PTO cover

Up this morning planning my day.
Going to the shop to tear down my D18 and install Herm's rebuild kit.
Wondering if I should splurge and buy the $117 oil pan and $34 pto cover from Novak.

My T-case was VERY leaky and everything was so oily I couldn't identify and major sources.

Are the stock steel pan and cover usually warped in some way? I'd rather not spend the money and I feel better about steel at the bottom in case of skid plate/rock disasters.

If I should replace them, are there other options?

I suspect i'll be tearing down today and needing to order a gear or two before i reassemble. My case seemed to be mostly untouched and possibly run dry here and there. Just judging by the leakage that was happening.

thanks

george

 

I am strongly considering the same upgrades when I do my T18 conversion. However, I would suggest that you do your rebuild and use good gaskets and/or gasket sealant. Make sure the sealing surfaces are flat and free of defects. Check the operation of your case and observe if you still have leaks. Those upgraded covers can always be added at a later time without removing the case from the vehicle.

 

Can't speak to the D18 specifically, but usually any kind of stamped steel pan or cover is susceptible to warping and bending due to overtightening and just wear and tear. If you like the aluminum covers, then by all means buy them. However, I can think of better places to spend my money. I would first try to straighten the pan or cover, especially around the bolt holes and so that it sits flat on a flat surface. Then I'd make sure the mating surfaces were scrupulously clean and free of gouges, old gasket material, rust, anything. I'd use a new gasket with a quality sealer. I use Permatex Ultra Black on everything currently, mostly because it's what I have and it seems to work well. Seal the bolt threads too.

 

Truer words..! Thanks, I get all wound up and it's so easy to order parts with the computer/credit card/website at 6am. Makes me feel like I'm doing something.
I'll go tear into it. Do the regular check for cracking case, check the gears, clean mating surfaces, gently remove install seals bearings, apply thin RTV here and there.
Gotta go get a new dial indicator (someone who looks a lot like me might have set a Honda CB550 engine on top of his old one).
I'll wait for those covers and that way I will feel ok If I have to spend on new gears.

Thanks again!

george
:v6:

 

Take a ball pien hammer and knock the high divit's down from where the bolts tried to push through... Then I Used Permatex's "The Right Stuff" on my pan, and it has yet to leak again.
Now the front and rear main are a different story

 

Another trick is to use a flanged bolt (after the pan has been straightened) from the diff cover for a 25, 27, 30, or 44 differential. They are self locking (little ridges under the flange) and the flange distributes the load over a larger area so it doesn't pull the pan in around the bolt hole.. Later model 20's used 'em from the factory as did Dana 300's.

 

I knew a use for that can of diff cover bolts I've been saving would come along eventually. Thanks Nick.