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Are these correct 225 exhaust manifolds?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by dprestby, Oct 4, 2010.

  1. Oct 4, 2010
    dprestby

    dprestby New Member

    Alexandria, MN
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2009
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    19
    Hi. Tried search, couldn't find pictures that would help me make sense of this. Link below shows top and bottom pictures of two exhaust manifolds for 225; PO said they were the stock manifolds. Looks like bolt holes match up, looks like the darker one fits as a rear dump driver side, and the rustier one is a rear dump passenger side. I don't think this was stock configuration...what do I have? Can I use these, or do I have a mis-matched set? Appreciate any direction.

    FYI I have fenderwell headers now, too wide and in the way so looking for options...Saginaw conversion done, still frame mounted MC, doesn't look like a lot of room in there, but sounds like stock or possibly AA block hugger is the best bet.

    http://picasaweb.google.com/dprestby/CJBuildPics#
    (click on the pics to make 'em bigger)
     
  2. Oct 4, 2010
    wlkrpines

    wlkrpines Member

    FERNDALE, MT
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    Messages:
    61
    Bottom one looks like it came from a 231to me.
     
  3. Oct 4, 2010
    dprestby

    dprestby New Member

    Alexandria, MN
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2009
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    19
    Thanks, wlkrpines...do you know, if it is from a 231, should I use them together, or do I need a matched set? I'm pretty sure I do need the driver side rear dump. Thanks.
     
  4. Oct 4, 2010
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,529
    Since CJ's never came with a rear dump for the driver's side you're going to have to use one from either a Jeepster Commando (hard to find) or a 231.
    The 231 driver's side manifold you have will work fine.
     
  5. Oct 4, 2010
    djbutler

    djbutler Sponsor

    Rio Linda CA
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2007
    Messages:
    727
    Wlkrpines is right, the driver side manifold you picture is from a 231.
    That being said, it should work for you to clear Saginaw steering shaft. This is the same manifold I selected for my '69 with the Saginaw conversion.

    Now I just said it could clear your steering shaft, but you will probably find it will require a second u-joint and some sort of stabilization bearing in the lower shaft segment to make this work. Flaming River and other vendors offer what you need to put this together.

    I'll see if I can dig up some pictures of how I did it.

    Don

     
  6. Oct 4, 2010
    dprestby

    dprestby New Member

    Alexandria, MN
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2009
    Messages:
    19
    Thanks, everyone. Sounds like "mis-matched" stock will work. Thanks for the hint on the extra joints I might need, Don...pics would be a bonus. Appreciate the help!
     
  7. Oct 4, 2010
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
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    5,472
    If your looking for block hugger headers - the Novak ones work well. I helped redesign them, and have them installed on a buddies rig. I will be getting them for my '49 build now, and my nieces V6 swap as well.
     
  8. Oct 4, 2010
    dprestby

    dprestby New Member

    Alexandria, MN
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2009
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    19
    Warloch: thanks, I WAS looking at the Novak ones, not AA, typed the wrong name in. I've heard good things about them, and that's definitely the way I'm going to go if the stock ones don't work out. Trying to project-manage getting the jeep to the muffler guy with enough options to put something together, and what tweaks I may need to do to the steering shaft and related bits...welcome to Jeep building, I guess!
     
  9. Oct 4, 2010
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
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    5,472
  10. Oct 4, 2010
    dprestby

    dprestby New Member

    Alexandria, MN
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2009
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    19
    Very cool; looks like the puzzle will be routing the steering shaft. I like how tight those headers snug up. Bookmarked your page as well...a cage is in my future. Thanks again!.
     
  11. Oct 4, 2010
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
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    5,472
    Put the box and motor in place BEFORE you decide on the column placement. I like to keep my saginaw boxes high, and it helps run the shafts with minimal issues in the motor mounts or exhaust. Just a notch in the front cross member for *******'s install and it was smooth going.

    FWIW - I use Mike McRuff's stuff to make my Saginaw setups - closer pics if you need them.
     
  12. Oct 4, 2010
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2005
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    1,758
    I don't want to negate Chuck's recommendation, he's definitely got the HP advantage, but you have everything you need. A saginaw swap w/ the manifolds you displayed is about the simplest w/o any change in your engine's performance you can do. One of the hardest things you can do to upgrade your jeep is to make that swap w/o notching something. The late 231 left manifold you have is the best for clearance. I used one to do my swap and while I do envy headers, I am quite happy w/ the low end torque I have (no noticeable change from stock). Since most of the driving I do is between 1500 and 2500 RPM I have opted to keep the manifolds. IT is definitely your choice and I don't want to sway you. I just offer a different path to what you really want.

    NO notching of x-member.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2010
  13. Oct 5, 2010
    dprestby

    dprestby New Member

    Alexandria, MN
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2009
    Messages:
    19
    Great feedback. The box was mounted by PO, nice and sturdy factory cast mount with a brace. I have the stock manifolds cleaned up, and the header off on the driver's side, so tonight I'm going to lay things out and see how it looks. Thanks again; the info, pics and links have been a tremendous help.
     
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