Flanged Dana 44

I found a flanged Dana 44 out of a '70 cj5, not sure on the gear ratio (going Saturday to take a look) its supposed to be in good shape complete drum to drum with the driveshaft. What should I offer the guy?

Thanks AJ

 

$100-$200

You can buy Dana 44's complete on Ebay and Craigs all day for $300.

I picked up a very complete (Rancho shocks included) Dana 30 wide track front for $100 last month. Complete disc - disc and 3.31 gears.

I have been shopping Dana 44's for a few months and passed on a couple for $120.

 

The offset flanged model will very likely bring a higher price. They were only available in CJs from '70 1/2 to '71. If it's in good condition, it could bring twice that of a typical Dana 44.

 

Well, I think an offset flanged 44 is easily worth $200. The seller might want more, if he knows what he has. Worth a little more if it's a 4.88 or 4.27 axle, IMO.

The centered axles ('72-75 CJ, and Commando) are certainly worth less than the offset axles.

 

It should be an offset flanged and they are worth alot more than a centered 44...around my area they seem to be going for 400+...this is of course assuming it is an offset flanged 44 in useable shape..

 

Keep your eyes open on Craigs and Ebay I think I see one that should be flanged and off set on there now for $300. forgive me for the ebay link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e..._trkparms=algo=LVI&its=I&otn=2&category=33731

In the past two months I have bid on Dana 44's offset and flanged that went for $225-$280.

This guy has them from time to time might call him before you offer on yours. Jeeps Unlimited 401-273-1860

 

Offset flanged axles around here go for $400 plus depending on condition, gear ratio, etc. like Warloch said, IF you can find one.
I bought one that needed a LOT of work for $200, was happy to get it, and only got it for that price because I had an "in" with the person who owned it. They knew it was for the Daughter's Jeep so gave me a decent deal on it.

 

Nick,

Is there an advantage over a flanged dana 44, versus a full floated generic dana 44? Does the flanged dana 44 have a higher spline count? If so, couldn't that be updated when you got the full float axles?

 

The flanged axle does use 30 spline axles vs. the tapered's 10 or 19 spline shafts so they are a bit stronger there. You can upgrade the tapered axle housing to a 30 spline diff case and use the FF axle shafts. You get better strength that way and it opens up more options for locking diffs or limited slips or whatever you want.
Another advantage with the flanged axle housing is it is 2 3/4" diameter and the tapered housing is 2 1/2" and there is a little bet better strength there as well. Not huge but some.

 

I sold an offset flanged d44 10 years ago for at least $200...can't remember the exact price.

 

Well I bought the axle today. His price was a little steep $600 but the rest of the JEEP came with it! 1970 V6 runs and drives brakes well. The body and the seats are a little rough, the engine idles smoothly, and it shifts well ( supposedly the tranny is rebuilt). Frame looks good tailgate is fair( spare tire carrier is relocated there) Newer windshield frame and glass. We even did a little wheeling in the garden when we got it home

Later AJ

 

I just sold one installed for $800. Guess it depends on location some. Mostly someone just didn't know what they had.

 

Nice score.

 

Yah basically you you bought the jeep for what the rear and some odds and ends are worth and the rest is free!!!!

 

Like Nick said. And Warlock too.
The tapered D 44 axles occasionally came as a HD version. (HD housing)
This should make the absolute best axle of all if it were converted into a 30 spline full floater.

The flanged 44 uses a unit type wheel bearing.
The tapered 44 uses a common cone and roller wheel bearing.
A fullfloating 44 will have two cone and roller bearings per wheel.

According to bearing engineers I spoke with;
The unit type bearing is superior for high speed useage.
The cone and roller type bearing is superior under side load stressing.
Therefore in my mind it's really no contest that a 30 spline full floating axle is the supreme offroad design.

Personally I don't like the design of the unit bearing to the flanged axle shaft.
If the retaining ring fails then the fit of the unit bearing alone holds the axle in the housing.
In other words the flanged axle shaft has no "shoulder" to hold the bearing in position.

 

Ken the flanged axle shafts have a step that holds the bearing in place from moving outwards towards the flanged area and the bearing retaining collar keeps it from moving inwards.

 

Ya Nick, that's correct.

When the unit bearing is pressed onto the flanged axle shaft the bearing itself is installed from the splined end.
The unit bearing is pressed up against the shoulder (step) on the flanged axle shaft.
This outer shoulder positions the bearing onto the flanged axle shaft and therefore limits the "inward" end float of the shaft.
This is unlike the tapered axle shaft where the tapered bearing is pressed on from the outer end of the shaft.
Here the inner shoulder of the tapered shaft limits "outward" end float of the axle shaft.

My concern is that....
The bearing retaining plate holds the flanged axle shaft in the housing.
The only thing that limits outward end float of the axle shaft is the press fit of the bearing cone plus the press fit of the retaining ring.
In other words the axle shaft can fly out of the axle housing if the retaining ring and bearing cone happen to slide on the axle shaft.
So what happens if Omix Adda starts selling the A-10 unit bearings with its integral and cruicial bearing retaining ring ?

Anyway if you compare a dissassembled A-10 unit bearing with a tapered roller bearing....
you observe that the unit bearing is taller but narrower than the tapered bearing.
This comparison directly implies that the unit bearing is better for higher velocity while the taper bearing is better for side load.
In the case of off road useage; WIDER IS BETTER !

Just my opinion ! Thanks for reading.