brake problems again

for all of you who have done disc brake conversions what master cylinder have you used to get the brakes working properly
thanks
kuggs

 

Do you still have the dragging brakes???

You may have a pinched or blocked brake line somewhere. It may let the high pressure fluid past the restriction but won't let the pressure bleed off from the lighter pressure from the brake return springs/ piston seal pullback.

Also check that one or both calipers are free in their mounts to slide side to side.

When I did my 72 back 20+ years ago, I just bolted the stuff on, bled the system, and great power disc brakes.
I don't remember what the parts came off of. It was a conglomeration of stuff I scrounged from the junk yard I was working at

 

I used the MC that was already on the 74 for my conversion. Stops fine....other than I may have too much brake for the rear. I can lock em up if I step on the brakes real hard.

 

pretty sure you're all set, since you got that new master cylinder. there's no problem now.

 

i am going to try a new portotioning valve and a new mc see if that solves it

 

Is the proportioning valve you have mounted on the frame? If so, I reused the one that was on my 74 with no problems.

 

How effective are drum brakes at stopping a Jeep? My 74 Cj5 has drum brakes on the front and rear and it seems to take longer to stop than a regular car does. Its not something that is endagering the Jeeps ability to stop but I just wanted to know if Jeeps with drum brakes take longer to stop than those with disks installed.

 

After may diffrent MC setups i have finally settled on a Waggy Power booster and master.

First i ran the stock unit with the residual pressure valve removed;works but the rears end up doing MOST of the braking, IMHO this setup is unsafe and is WORSE than the stock drum setup.

Next i ran an 82cj manual brakes master with a adjustable Porp. valve; proper front to rear balence but still has worse performance than the drum system.

Now im running an 82 wagging fiirewall mount, dual diaphram booster, waggy aluminum master, and adjustible prop. valve.; Modern car like performance and peddle feel. VERY VERY happy with it, it will lock up all the tires at 60mph if you wanted to.

I believe power is necessary with disc brakes.......How many new cars have manual brakes and discs....food for thought. You cant just change one part of the system, you need to upgrade the entire system as a whole.

 

A properly set up and in good working order drum brake system is more than adaquate.

In 74 they went to 11" drums all around and was the zenith of four wheel drum brakes.

Drum brakes are servo acting and supplies some of its own "power" as the shoes wedge into the drum, so power boosting is not totally necessary.

The pinching action of disc brake pads needs to be power boosted to get the same stopping power.

The drums are more prone to fade from downhill grades and towing as they are more closed off from airflow.The discs are more out in the open and have cooling fins that draw air in between the disc surfaces for cooling.

Discs also have the advantage after water crossings and deep mudding as they tend to self dry and self clean.

Drums work better as parking brakes(vs., say, four wheel disc)

Drums are more complicated but overall are plenty safe

I'm keeping mine!

 

So then my next question is does a 74 Cj5 have power brakes or manual brakes? and is it normal for a jeep to take a bit longer to stop or am I not pressing down on the brakes enough since this vehicle is something entirely different from what I have ever driven before.

Sorry if these are silly questions but Im very new to the jeep scene and car scene in general when it comes to the mechanics of them.

 

Not silly at all. If you don't know, you don't know and it's good to ask!

If the drum brakes are not wet, packed with mud, and are in good working order you should just about be able to launch yourself through the windshield with them. In '74 IIRC power brakes were an option so you could have either power or non power. If I'm wrong on this hopefully someone will correct me. If the brake master cylinder bolts directly to the firewal you have manual brakes (no power assist). If the master cylinder bolts to a large canister with a vacuum hose going to the engine then it is power assisted.
I'd have to ask stop better than what? What are you comparing your Jeep to? If you are talking about a 4 wheel disc power assisted 200whatever vehicle then it most likely won't stop as quick. If you are talking about a mid '70's whatever then it should stop reasonably well in comparison. Power brakes will typically stop quicker than manual brakes so that enters into the equation as well.

 

Well I currently drive one of two cars, a 1994 Chevy suburban (great shape has around 350,000 miles on her) and a 1994 S420 Mercedes Benze (great shape as well has 300,000 and is actually bullet proof)

Now both these vehicles stop very quick and I guess thats what I am comparing my Cj5 too.

Again I know very little about Jeeps, so what does the master Brake cylander look like and where can I find it on the fire wall or in the case of power assist where is it bolted to the engine?

 

The master cylinder is the thing in the upper left with the silver cover with two round humps.This is NON-power brakes.



This is a later jeep with power brakes. the power comes from the large black drum that is between the master cylinder and the firewall.



Google searching images may help you become familiar with what parts look like
For example...
http://www.google.com/images?q=jeep%20brake%20master%20cylinder&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&oe=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

 

Here is a picture of the engine compartment from my 74 Cj5 (just got her a week ago)



I can see the master cylander on the right hand side of the picture bolted to the fire wall and it has no big black cylander behind it. So I guess I have non- power brakes. So becuase I dont have power brakes I do have to work on making sure I learn how to stop the Jeep and press harder on the brake pedal.

By the way thank you very much guys for helping me out with this, again I know nothing about Jeeps and I hope these simple questions are not a bother to everyone.

 

I just felt like posting this pic of my engine

 

Very sanitary. Looks like a good purchase.

 

What is the date of manufacture on yours, 74CJGUY?
From the grille welting, I'm going to guess it's an earlier one with the high "JEEP" on the side of the tub. Yours is slightly different from my mid AUG 74 build.
More pics

 

Here are some pics of my Jeep.

It is a 1974 built Cj5 that has been completly and totally restored. Aside from a few minor rust spots on the dash there is almost no rust anywhere else.

I got her for $3,850 cash

















Sorry for possibly hijacking this post

 

Cool
Great pics!
Yours is an early 74 that someone replaced the drivers side of the tub on.
You have the high "JEEP" on the passenger side and the low "JEEP" on the drivers side.
Here's a little something to replace the sharpie shift pattern on your dash.
(pattern 005)

http://www.bearcreeksurvey.com/NOSRepro.htm