1974 CJ5 Rookie Build

Ooh, look'n good.

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk

 

:iagree:

 

Bustin my butt to be ready by the march run

 

I'd say through top on it and you are good to go. :stout:

 

Thompology - looks excellent. Sorry to take you back a page or two but what is the thickness of the steel in that 2x4 bumper stock tubing? I want to make a similar bumper for mine when I get to that point. I like the frame mounted through bumper 3/4" tow hooks. I'm planning to also tow from the front bumper, but may need to mount additional tow bar connections to the actual tubing as my tow bar has a specific hook up design and I'd like to have the tow hooks like your as well as the tow bar mounts - do you think that is thick enough to hold a tow bar set up to drag the jeep down the road? People tow using the stock bumper mount and what you've built seems a whole lot more stout than my stock bumper looks! Thanks and great progress, I've been subscribed for awhile, keep up the great work I need as many ideas as I can get!

 

@ Benmack1 no worries, the tubing is 3/16" thick. I figured that was a good mix of strength and weight.
As for towing by mounts on the tubing, I think it would be plenty strong. What you might consider is drilling the holes of whatever you are going to mount on the tubing oversize enough to allow you to sleeve the passages with some round tubing. that way you would eliminate any crush issues when you tighten the bolts or tow the jeep.
Anything I mount to these I will sleeve in that manner.

Thanks for the complements, it is coming along although as my next post will outline I may have some big problems

 

So, Sat. I loaded the jeep on on a trailer and drug it over to A1 Muffler Express and tried to see what they could doo about my need of a muffler. I called off a craiglist add where I was quoted over the phone without them even looking at my mess. It only took them about 2 hours (no big deal I just went to the driving range across the freeway for a bit). I am VERY happy with the finished product. It was very hard to leave the jeep in someone else's hands, and just thinking about them welding on my beautiful frame scared me, but it came out sweet:

I asked them to put on something that would make it quiet and now it is very quiet. So quiet in fact that I could clearly discern the loud tapping of a stuck lifter (dang). I took the jeep home and popped the valve cover to find:

Uh-Oh. In my limited (rookie) knowledge, if you see white goo in the valve cover that means there is water in the oil! This means either a head gasket or a cracked case correct?
My approach to this problem is the following:
1) drain 1.25 quarts of oil out of the engine and replaced with a mix of Marvel Mystery and Seafoam.
2)Assume that condensation is the cause of the white goo for two reasons; First that the water level of the radiator does not seem to have changed, and second because there is no evidence of oil in the water.
3) drive the jeep around for a bit and see if I cant get that lifter unstuck.

I need to get new tires on this beast but havent figured out which ones I want yet. But after tires, shocks, new windshield and seatbelts, I should be able to insure and register this sucker and then Drive it around and unstick the lifter!

 

Nice project. I've never seen condensation like that with gasoline. Methanol, yes, but not gas. I've had water in a race motor without having oil in the water, so that's not always a good gauge. Hope it's not a big deal for you.

 

I'm sorry to be negative but that is a lot of water and most likely not caused by condensation. You will want to do a compression test.

 

Is the rest of the oil in the pan milky looking? If not I would go for the condensation theory. A compression check is easy to do, and you can take it to a radiator shop and they can check for exhaust gas in the radiator.

Don

 

As long as the Jeep has been not running, and as wet as the winter has been, condensation is a good bet.

Always try the cheapest fix first, based on the symptoms.

Good luck,

 

:iagree:

 

So I pumped some oil out to make room for the MM Oil and Seafoam. It didnt appear milky at all.

@Mike S that is pretty much the plan, I figure I can do any MORE damage to this thing by running it so until I can get some longer drives and more data(symptoms) I will just proceed as if I never saw that

 

So I went ahead and sprung for the $10 cylinder pressure tester from Harbor Freight and rushed home to test the engine.
From left to right this is cylinders 1 through 6 with the corresponding spark plugs and pressure readings. These reading were done with the engine cold and dry.

So only #2 and #4 look a little odd. Mostly #4 which you can see is completely black:

It seems odd to me that this happened to be the one with the highest compression. Any guesses to what is going on?

Some other back story, I have been burning a lot of oil through this motor as I dumped about 6oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank before I read the part about add 4oz to 10 gallons. I had roughly 1.5 gallons in the tank at the time so now I've got a nice smoker when I run this baby! Im not sure if this would affect the coloring around the plugs but I thought I would throw that info out there for the group to ponder.

More news as events warrant.

 

Wet black is usually an indicator of oil, so with the good compression, I would guess a bad valve guide. That is pretty nice compression on that. I think all of mine were between 120-130 a few years ago when I bought it, but that was before its brief stint as a mud machine.
Anyway, with good compression, and the small amount of oil a valve guide will allow through, I would chalk it up as not a big deal, but Im just That guy I guess. Good luck!

 

I agree the black plug is oil, and that same oil is sealing the rings just enough to boost the pressure a bit.

The good news is that the compression is fairly even across the board, so the basic engine core appears to be sound.

How long did it set, and how many hours has it run since you have been running it.

Is the smoking worse when first starting up, when accelerating, or when backing off the throttle and coasting.

 

It sat without being turned over for a minimum of 5 years. I couldn't get an exact answer out of the PO because it was the parents of the PO who sold me the jeep after he had left it with them about 12 years ago.
Right now the smoking is consistent across the throttle band, but mostly that is from the MM oil in the gas. I ran it before with ZERO smoking until I got crazy with the MM.

 

MM is magic stuff... Don't stress about it smoking .. My grandfather used to use strictly MM and gasoline for his old chainsaws and a mixture in it to tear down frozen motors.. Throw half a can of sea foam into the oil and run it for a while.. It will break everything loose in the motor and soften the valve seals without swelling them.. Just my two cents

 

After sitting for 5+years, to run without smoking is good news. Aside from the MMO, that is.

Run it---just run it.

By the way, the MMO and Seafoam will probably cause the oil filter to plug up fairly early-------due to the crud being freed up inside the engine.

I would do a filter change after 50 miles or so. No need to change oil yet.........probably.

Cutting the oil filter open, and seeing if there is a lot of crud plugging the media, is not a bad idea.

Getting the engine temp up also helps to dissolve crud, so drive it to work?

 

Oh its getting run! Just as soon as I can afford some tires for it! The tires on there now are very old and when they lose air big cracks appear in the sidewalls so I would be afraid to drive them over 25mph.
Work is a 100 mile round trip so Ill probably take it out on some short runs first. I'm a little apprehensive as this whole process has been kind of diving right in and seeing what I can figure out, Id hate to be cruzin down the road and have some catastrophic failure caused by my rookie oversight.