A new trany in and Old CJ5

Ok received the mount in the mail today and installed it!
You can see in the picture the OEM mount on the right.
The aftermarket eurothane mount on the left. I strongly suggest buying the left mount on this swap. A couple reasons! First it is thinner and the stock (right) mount will hit the tranny and not line up unless you modify the mount!
The after market is also much stronger for off-road usage.
And when you are working on figuring out the line up to the skid plate it is much easier to mount it without the studs sticking down and line everything up then drill the cross member were needed. Also the after market unit is a little shorter in height! at this point it does help to gain that clearance.
Just trust me it is worth the money!

 

Here I am just pointing out the position of first gear. The one thing that bothered me with a tranny swap was having a tranny that shifted like a 1962 IH school buss. I wanted a farely tight pattern and I think this trany is about the tightest in a truck transmission I have come accross.

 

Defenately not a custom built item for the application. But is the one you should use because it fits much better, a person should just order it from Novak when you order the adapter!

 

Are you planing some sort of torque mount?

 

Torque Moint? are you meaning because the tranny has lower gears and can produce a lot more power from the engine!
I am not planning any additional moints or bracing. I run with guys who have much deeper geared rigs than I and they don't brake any drive train mounts. they brake other stuff!!!!

 

Not much of further pictures, most of you know what drivelines look like!
I have the drivelines in and rolled her out onto the grass. I made a adjustment to the front, It was never done properly and was always at the end of the joint. The jeep had a spring reversal on it before I got it and they did not alow enough slip joint on the bottom side.
Keep this in mind when you do a modification. when the front wheels go UP they don't travel in as much as spring forward. when the diff flexes down the travel away from the transfer case is way more.
the rear driveline is 17.5 center of U-Joint to center of U-Joint
The front is 32 1/4 same -same.
I also ended up lowering my cross member 11/2 inch from the frame. I already had a 3/4 lower to it due to a 21/2 inch lift kit.

 

You mean the flat plate with the rubber bumper and bolt offset to the drivers side? well my plate is too wide. I haven't had the bolt in that in a long time. I don't think at this stage I will use it!

 

I have changed to the Summit racing motor mounts. Prothane!!!!!!!!!!!!!, NOOO give to them. its almost like directly bolting the engine to the frame, you can feel all the vibration!
I am now looking for a large shifter boot. The bottom needs to be about 10 inches across. If someone knows a good source let me know!

 

you got that thing done yet???
im ready to go on a run!!!

 

If you still have the mechanical clutch linkage, your going to NEED the torque mount. With out the the mount when you let out the clutch the engine torques too far to one side depending on direction (F or R). Affecting the clutch operation. The result is NASTY clutch chatter type sounds that shake the whole jeep! I thought it was optional too.

 

Ok, regarding the transmission mount. I see Novak changed their design away from the stock style T-18 mount which is very wide, very similar to the T-86 mount, and went to the narrower mount. I'm guessing because they are more readily available and available in polyurethane.
Learned something new. Guess I just never paid attention to the mounting hole width for the mount on the last couple I built.

 

I will take my chances without the torque plate since it is too wide to fit on the bracket without cutting a chunk out of it for trany clearance. if I cut it it will lose its strength and then it will do nothing.
I am easy on the trails and clutch and so far I actually have less torquing of the engine because of the lower gear. I can idle threw easily without using throttle were before I needed to work the clutch and throttle to get over obstacles.

Nickmil! I do see the same mount in Summit for about 15 bucks less than I paid from Novak. I like the Novak guys and don't mind giving them the business for the service I got, though..

Brandon533b! You cant keep that thing out of the ditches long enough to keep up. I added the slower gear so it gives you time to recover yourself and ketch up!

 

Yes I found that also! But I sure don't get the service from the local parts stores like I do from Novak. So I don't regret spending the money there!