Spring plates for 72-75 CJ5?

Spring plates for 72-75 CJ5? Answered!!

I just broke the shock stud off my rear spring plate on my 74. I can't seem to find the replacements at any of the usual parts places. They all carry for pre 71 or post 76. Any ideas if any of these are usable on my 74? I'm assuming the factors are spring width, axle diameter and anti rotate pin placement. I have no problem drilling a few extra holes in the plates if needed.

Any ideas would be helpful. The plates are in rough shape and I'd rather buy replacements than just weld a bolt onto the old ones....

Thanks!

 

I have had to weld the studs back onto a couple plates, clean them up and give it a try if they are not too mangled

 

I bought the stuff to make my own, then just purchased the ones Warrior Product makes. My free time was scarce, patience was gone, paid my way out of a problem.

 

Chilly, did the Warrior products spring plates come with the studs?

I have a small welder, but nothing strong enough to weld bolts to 3/8. It's only for sheetmetal and making 1/8 brackets and stuff.

 

I can make just the stud. I have made quite a few of them, would just need the dimensions.

 

I'm thinking the pre-71 parts should work for the rears. Possible differences are the u-bolt diameters and the placement of the shock ahead or behind the axle (I think they are the same). The springs are the same width and the spring center bolt / locating pin should be the same. Certainly the fronts plates are not interchangeable.

 

The Warrior Products plates do come with the studs. The plates have coupling nuts (really long nuts) welded to the plates. The studs then thread into the coupling nuts. I incorporated the same idea into my upper rear shock mounts because mine were rotten and I needed to fabricate something. I welded coupling nuts to my fabricated brackets then ordered studs from W. P.. I locktite the studs with blue locktite.

 

Thanks everyone. I'm going to order a set of rear plates for the pre 71s and see how they work. I need new shocks, so even if they are are behind the axle instead in front, I'll just order longer shocks. I will also replace the U-bolts since these have enough barnacles to compete with the Titanic....

 

I have 8 shock bolts, came w/ my Conferr skid spring plates. I'd be happy to send you some (non gratis) to get welded onto your plates. PM me if interested.:v6:

 

Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean...but if you're buying two plates and they have the bolts on the wrong side, can't you just put the right one on the left side and vise-versa? Wouldn't that give you shock mount bolts either in front of or behind the axle, depending on which side you put the plates?

 

One thing to watch for, the '70 1/2 and '71 flanged axle rear are the same u-bolt plates as the '72-'75. The tapered axle (two piece non-flanges style) used a smaller diameter tube on the housing so while they "can be forced to work" are not really right. the tapered axle housings were 2 1/2" diameter tubes IIRC and I know for sure the flanged axles used 2 3/4" tubes.
If you can't find what you need or make them, pm me and I can put you in touch with someone who makes them on a regular basis. I'd also contact McRuff as he sometimes makes them as well and his work is excellent!

 

Thanks for all the ideas. I managed to get the driver's side off without breaking the shock bolt, so I only need to fix the pass side. I ordered a pre 71 pass side for $12 so I'll see how that works. I'll make sure I post back so that eveyone knows for future reference.

Nickmil, I figure if the plate I ordered is for a slightly smaller tube, I think I can just elongate 2 of the holes 1/4" to make it work for the 2 3/4 id bolts that i need without too much risk.

 

Just for future reference, pre 71 spring plates will work on 72-75 CJs with a little modification. I received mine for the passengers side and installed it today.

First, the hole pattern is about 1/8" shorter (U-bolts are slightly smaller in diameter) so you will need to enlarge 2 of the holes (or make them slightly oval).

Second, you will need to remove approx 1/16" of material from the shock mounting stud so that you have clearance to fasten the bolt. There is no room for a washer on this one hole so make sure this is not the one that you enlarge.

Other than that, they worked fine.