caliper mount

first part of your question. in simple terms no

second part of your question, well i havent gotten that far along yet, but from doing alot of reading. it just all depends, some have had good luck with the residul valve being stock, some havent. i am real interested in what i am gonna run into with that myself. just one of those things "to me" try it and see what happens. then go from there

 

What method did you use to remove the old studs from the hub? Also how did you go about pressing them into the rotor and mating the rotor and hub together? Just curious I have read about different methods. I have not tackled this task yet so any tips would help.

 

I will be doing this later today. I have a BIG, OLD vise. big and old have some meaning here its heafty. i am going to try and press them out with the vise and a socket, maybe a little heat from the torch as well if they are real difficult. I wouldnt try this with a newer vise unless its a monster of a vise. prob break a china vise

 

update: i deleted the brake best rotor # from the list. it was the wrong rotor (7/8" thick)

as for the stud removal, I removed one and took it with me, it came out fairly easy with the vise and socket

its been said before and i will say it again. WATCH YOUR TOES when it does come out everything wants to fall out of the vise, I knew this and it still happened to me

 

Not sure what year you have but to answer your question. I am running a stock dual master cylinder. I removed the residual valve in the M/C and added a 2# proportioning valve in line. From what I am told the one in the M/C is 10 pounds. The 2# Prop valve will keep some pad pressure on the brakes. If you are running a dual M/C make sure the brakes lines are plumbed correctly. Good info here, page 5, post #42. http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26819&page=5
Also very key to use "organic" brake pads if this is non power brakes.

 

Couple more part #'s
Raybestos Dual Master Cylinder MC36365
Brake Pads (organic) Raybestos RRD52

 

Yep I am on my way to take them back right now. I hope the wagners work.

 

Yeah, I had the same issue. Had to take 'em back.

 

well i didnt exactly have to take them back, i brought my tape measure with me

 

I don't mean to hi-jack your thread, but I am working on the same project. Since I am waiting on parts and have a leaking knuckle. I decided to start taking it apart. I noticed when pulling the pins out of the knuckles that the top plate had a metal gasket, but the lower plates (which I expected to have a gasket since it holds fluid) did not have anything in between it. I also noticed that there was no gasket in between the spindle and the knuckle. It seems like there should be some type of gasket for these 2 areas. I maybe wrong, but I just don't see how fluid would stay in the knuckle. Also in some of the material I have been researching regarding the disc brake conversion. Some of the writers mention taking material off of the back of the hub to sit flush against the rotor, while others do not mention this step at all. Do all hubs need to be machined flat?

 

I think the thin top "gasket" is actually a shim(s) that sets knuckle bearing pre-load. You'll need an FSM or the Ludel book or the like to get the procedure for that. This diagram is actually a Dana 25 (M38A1) but the same applies to a Dana 27. See part "E" on the diagram:



Some people use rtv or super 300 on the spindle mating surface.

Finally, on the hub back face, you just want it flat so the rotor will mount flush and solid against the hub - you want to take as little off of the hub as possible. Mike Ruffin (mcruff) machined mine for me and did a great job. You can post a pic here and get opinions as to whether you need to have them machined or not.

 

Thanks for the info it was really helpful. I know they say hind sight is 20/20, but looking back I really wished I had ordered the disc brake conversion kit off ebay. Before I started this conversion I did a lot of research online. I came across an add on Ebay that had everything you needed to convert your drum brakes to disc. The kit included the hubs and rotors already mated with the longer studs and new races already pressed in. It also included the calipers, pads, bearings, hoses, bolts, 12 longer knuckle bolts, and caliper mounting brackets. The kit also claims that you do not have to grind your knuckles or change out the knuckle fill plugs. I decided not to order the kit because with shipping it would have been about $660. I thought by buying my own parts and doing everything myself I could do the conversion for about half of that price. Well I got to thinking about it last night I spent around $425 at the parts store, getting parts and I am re-using my bearings and races. I also will have to pay to have the hubs machined, buy knuckle bolts, and pipe plugs for the fill holes so that will be some more money. The other thing is if I bend one of the hubs when pressing out the studs or damage them when pressing in the new studs I am out more money. With the kit, everything would have arrived and been ready to bolt on. Maybe this was not the best idea, just my 2 cents. I am going to go buy some calipers from the junk yard to take back and get my core charge refunded. That is $50, so if everything goes perfect I might save a little bit. That is a big IF.

 

so far i have roughly $300 invested in the conversion. I already had caliper cores, and caliper mounts. I have a buddy that will do my machine work for next to nothing, or may not charge me at all. the only other expense i can forsee would be new races, some steel brake line, 12 longer spindle bolts, and the flush plugs for the knuckle fill. i havent cleaned up the bearings yet, so i may run into some expense there, but would not consider that part of the conversion, because if they need replaced, it wouldnt matter whether or not i was doing a brake conversion. hands down a D30 with disc would be the way to go, if the ratio matched the rear

 

One more note. I originally used the brake hoses that are part rubber. They came with the Blazer Calipers I picked up at the junk yard. When I went to the 33" tires they rubbed the hoses and ripped a tear in the rubber part. A few weeks back I went to steel braided lines. I picked them up from Parts Mike.

 

Steve thats another thing i thought about but did not mention. i my have to replace my wheels, not sure yet. I have a combination of OEM wheels, some are the latter ones with the nubs for hubcaps. i wont know untill i have everything mounted up

 

I looked into doing the dana 30 swap as a much cheaper way to accomplish the disc brake conversion. What I ran into is I could not find one with the matching gear set. The other thing I would have had to consider is the cost in reconditioning an alxe. Most of the these that have been taken out have leaks, bad bearings, bad seals, or hubs. The one thing that would have been a plus is getting all the steering parts you would need to swap your steering to saginaw. If I could have found an axle with right gears I would have bought it. Like I said hindsight is 20/20. Now all I can do is quit second guessing myself and get it done. I knew I would keep going back and forth with different ideas. That is why I went ahead and cut the front brake lines off of the drums so I would have to go ahead and do it.

 

tough call isint it too much invested now to turn back oh well at least you have the satisfaction of getting it done and i think it was one of sparkys sayings. it aint smart that gets it done its determination

 

well just got my rotors and the wagner # is good, they are the correct ones. just a bit more costly