caliper mount

ok so i have everything mocked up on my d27. and i have ran into a issuemehh the caliper is dead agaisnt the knuckle where the 2 piece seal mounts. it did bolt up. but i am concerned that it will not have the correct amount of caliper travel, granted the caliper travel would not be much to begin with even on its original application. i have read where some have had to reclock the mount. but with what i have ran into it wouldnt help, it would just move the caliper up and have the same problem. so whats going on here do i have the wrong caliper, wrong caliper mount, or is this just something that really is a non issue:?

 

looks like a hell of alot of grinding

 

ok if you say so. will go back out and look at it a little more closley. looks like 1/2" of material to be removed

 

no not saying that at all. it just looks like i have something strange going on here. i honestly dont believe i can remove as much material as its needs and not have a issue with the seal

 

ok after looking at it closer, its not so much as how much you grind but where you do it. i think it will be ok as long as it doesnt need to ride on the caliper bolts head, as long as it stays on the sleave it should be just fine

 

Are you using the wide race for the inside bearing? That saves you about an 1/8" of grinding.

 

I havent gotten that far along yet. I may have to. today was a rough fit. the rest of the parts will be tomorrow and tuesday. didnt figure they would have the wheel studs or the rotors in stock. studs in the morning, and rotors tuesday. i do have some new part #'s if anybody is interested. saved me about $90 in the rotors alone. only numbers i had were for raybestos & wagner rotors. he was able to cross it over to their in house brand. wagners were around $80. house brand was like $35

 

Here is a pictuce of the knuckle on mine after I ground it:
http://picasaweb.google.com/jzeber5/JeepStuff#5350524255812425762

 

looks like you had to do alot of grinding as well. for some reason mine was slightly lower than yours. i ended up grinding the backside of the flange (oppsiote side from the seal) just made it a little thinner, looks like it is gonna be fine. if not i may go with the different race. kinda anxious to get the rest of my parts in

 

I used the thicker race, made a huge difference. I could not get the rotor, caliper and pads to all line up without it!

 

If you do a search, Nickmil has posted the race number several times.

 

Here are some Napa part #'s
Carrier Bearing Race BRGLM501311
Carrier Bearing Race BRGLM501349
Axle Seals NOS11711
Wheel Studs BK6411144
78' Jeep Rotor 1 1/8" thick TS4885645

Not sure about the seals! I know I used the thicker one listed in the article.

 

you got it! sure makes it easy on the parts guy, and you as well. i like getting the right parts the first time

some of this may be repeat info but here is what i have

rotors 77-78 CJ 1 1/8" thick (7/8" thick rotors from late 78 on up will not fit!)
federated # 5356183
raybestos #3550R
wagner # BD60458


banjo bolts 2 req
help # 13935
edelman # 13935

brake pads, have been told organic works best
brake best # D-52 (organic)
federated # PGD52R (semimetallic)

brake hoses 1971-1978 chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 (2 req)
federated # 3671BH
raybestos # BH36761
bendix # 77028
oreilly (brake best) #BH177028

calipers 71-78 chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 there is a left and right #

federated # 18-4046 & 18-4045
oreilly (brake best) same as federated #'S shown above and these include the hardware, bolts, sealing washers, and antirattle clip

wheel studs (10 req) 1/2" longer than original. it is 1/2" x 20 TPI thread)
dorman # 610106

misc parts if your calipers did not come with the hardware.

caliper mounting pins (bolts) 4 req, use the ones with the round outter surface, and an allen head
(the stock ones have an external hex- head) i have no # for these but they are for 71-78 chevy 1/2 ton 4x4

anti rattle clips( 2 req)

the only # i have is 5539 no idea who the # is for.

nuts to secure the frame end of the caliper hose do not come with the hoses. it is a standard nut. i got mine while at my FLAPS (2 req)

pipe plugs for knuckle flush mount style (2 req)

there is what i have so far. and the guy at my FLAPS was greatfull that i had part numbers.

this is just pretty much a "shopping list" steve pick at it as you see fit, alot of it is from a list i got somewhere else on the web, and just penciled in some of my notes, or they didnt mention that, or this would be helpfull to know etc

 

I got everything torn down to the spindle tonight. I am headed to buy all the parts tomorrow. Is there anything you ran into that I haven't read about yet? Did you need to do anything with the proportioning valve or residual valve?

 

as stated i have not even begun with the swap, this is just what i needed as gathered from this site and a few others. they have already compiled a good list and a write up on how to do it. my only offer was some new part #'s from a different source than what was already listed. lots of good folks here if you need any futher info. actually i feel bad for starting this thread, as it has been covered many many times... but if i can contribute some new #'s and get a few questions answered i guess all is good also nickmil has posted in another thread the inner race #'s to help out with the conversion, if need be it will relocate the rotor outward to line things up a bit better. I myself have not gotten that far along yet. and didnt mention it in this thread untill now. but good info to have, thanks nickmil