leaf spring bushings.

so i am looking into getting new leaf spring shackle bushings. because all of myn are shot. now i was looking at my spring mounts here::::




and they look pretty bent. now there is some space in between the leaf and the mount. now do the bushings/inserts take up this empty space.

it looks to me like the previous owner didnt have bushings in there and cranked them down till it bent. so can i get someone to maybe post a close up of there spring mount.

and again would a bushing kit like this work to fix my problem:
http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/1-805.html
they really dont look like the ones in the picture they look more like this::


just seems to me like they only go in the leaf and leave that big open space in there.

 

I just replaced mine and the shackels looked similar to yours the bushings i used looked like the black ones in your pic. I just put them in and titened them up and let the gap be, if i remember correctley the bushing took up a little of that gap. what i do know is it took care of a lot of front end wonder

 

The original style are rubber between two metal shells, and are officially called "silent block bushings." They wear out more easily than you'd expect. They will stick out beyond the spring and fill the gap.

You can also use poly bushings. These are a common, and more modern, upgrade to the silent blocks. Still, they don't last forever.

 

If you don't fill that gap with a washer you will get excess steering play. I just changed to new shackles that have a similar gap and you can turn the steering wheel side to side and watch the body and frame move while the axle and leaf spring stays put. The leaf spring eye will slide until it hits the other side and only then will the wheels turn. Go back the other way and it will slide all the way across to the other side before it hits and the wheels start to turn. It just introduces excess slop in the system. Amazing how a small little gap can amplify into quite a large amount of movement.

I used poly bushings. They come with an internal steel sleeve but don't use the external one. The old bushings are a major PITA!!! to remove if the inner sleeve is rusted to the bolt and the outer is rusted to the spring eye or mount. You will curse like a sailor trying to get them off. Even the new poly bushings didn't fully fill the gap and I had to use a washer as a spacer.

 

beginning in mid 1974, the CJs started to use a bushing with a longer inner sleeve.

Jeep P/N 921055 is 1-13/16" overall length. The inner sleeve is flush with bushing body.
for mid 74 and earlier years

Jeep P/N 5352659 is 2-3/64" overall length. The inner sleeve is longer than the bushing body.
for mid 74 and later years.

Unknown if you can still buy the longer sleeve bushing; everybody and their brother sells the shorter ones.

otherwise, just add the washers as mentioned; don't overtighten.


just an FYI.

 

I just put a set of greasable bushings on my 74 a few weekends ago. I had to add washers to fill the gap as well. I had to cut the old outer sleeve out with a hacksaw blade. Cursing did help R)

 

well what the heck??

that seems rediculous...

so what you all are saying is that the after market bushings don't even fit properly....??? you have the add washer's to fill the gap??

that just seems ghetto, and no right. that's disappointing.

so is there another bushing that i can get and just cut it down to so it sits flush against both sides of the perch?? maybe from a different year or something. it would just need to have the same side spring eye inner diameter right???


any idea's

i just hate the idea of adding washers where they were not ment to go.


thanks all, Matt


o P.S. can i get a picture of someone who has installed the poly bushings and had to add washers...?? please and thank you

 

I suppose it's also possible somebody has changed/modified your spring hangars...
do you know ?

 

Why is adding a washer as a shim "ghetto?" There's nothing unsafe or unsightly about it, it just takes the play out of the system.

 

better to have the metal bushing sleeve ends riding against a washer than against the spring hangar wearing out the hangar.

 

well i just dont think there should need to be a washer there. it should fit in there just right.

and i would think it would be better to have the poly bushing rubbing up against my hanger. not a washer.

i mean if i cant find a solution i will definitely stick a washer in there to fix it.seems easy enough.

any pictures???

thanks, Matt

 

I've seen the insides of that hanger rubbed thin by the leaf spring eye. I think a sacrificial washer is a better idea than having a closer tolerance.

Also, my Jeep tracks very straight and steady even with the small amount of flex (100% new suspension, ball joints, tie rod ends in good shape). When the Jeep is rolling there won't be as much side to side play. And side to side play won't cause the Jeep to change direction very much. Worn out bushings and shackles, on the other hand, allows the axle to pivot randomly and this will cause erratic steering.

If you have erratic steering I'd keep looking for solutions. Not so sure this is your trouble, but I'd install washers anyhow if the gap annoys you.

 

yeah ill prolly just get the poly bushings. thanks for the input guys. would still love some pictures.....

 

I've got poly bushings and there's still a gap. The instructions that came with my new 4wd Hardware heavy duty shackles even said "if there is a gap between the spring eye and the shackle wall use a washer as a spacer."

 

do the poly bushings stick out any past the edge of the leaf spring???

 

All the one's I've seen do.

And another vote for a washer if needed.

 

Mine don't. My springs are aftermarket though, Black Diamond. The Energy Suspension poly bushings I used are exactly flush with both sides of the spring eye.

 

man thats wierd. because i dont think just a little washer is going to fill in my monster gap. it seems like i would need like 3 washers on each side....????

 

BUMPPPPP for pictures!