Four Wheel Disc and Rear Full Floater - Parts and Estimate

Got to have seperate checking accounts. My paycheck goes into her account, and the "Jeep fund" is my account. I havn't seen a penny from my paycheck in a long time. This Jeep disease seems to pay for a lot of toys so its hard for her to complain, plus when I'm working in the garage she can leave the kids at home. (More thread highjack).I would deffinately grab the dana 30 while available. If nothing else as trading stock. I am not a fan of dumping money into any 25 or 27.

 

Soooo - I have in my possession a '73 CJ Dana 30 with 3.73 gears. I think what I may do is put the same discs on it that I was planning to put on my D27, put the D30 in front, and move the 11" drum brakes off the D30 to the back and hold off on the Full Floater conversion for now and save my pennies for that for another day. Means I'll have to find one of them Mongo hub pullers to pull my hubs off my tapered rear axle to get to those leaky seals. Anybody want to lend me one?

I'll keep my original spreadsheet and work up a new one for this project.

 

Update - now that my Jeep is running and I drove it around this weekend, I discovered that the brakes are SCARY ... yanking me into the oncoming lane hard.

So - I am diving into that this issue weekend. Gonna put discs on the '73 Dana 30, put that under the front, probably Big Daddy tie rod. That'll save me from dealing with the closed knuckles (I think the D30 Ball joints are OK for now).

I'm going to try to put the same discs on the rear and do the full float conversion too - all as outlined in my Google spreadsheet (see previous post in this thread).

QUESTIONS:
1. How do you test ball joints on a D30 to verify that they are OK? Same way you check kingpins on a D27?
2. What is the inner bearing cup part number for the 1/8" thicker cup needed to put discs on the D30 - searched for it and couldn't find it here?
3. Is it reasonable to ask a local machine shop to do simple machining on my hubs and/or spindles while I wait, or at least same day?
4. Should I plan on buying all new wheel and/or spindle bearings or is likely enough mine are good that I can wait until I tear all of this stuff down?

I'll probably have more questions later ... and of course pictures and writeup on how it goes. Thanks for all of the help you guys!

 

OK - cool - I have most all of my parts ready (except they shipped me the wrong rotors, but I have that straightened out - PS - I ordered rotors for a 77 Scout II and they were the wrong size. Maybe OReilly has the wrong part number listed. Napa has it right. First time I have ever had a problem with OReilly - they are still my preferred store here locally).

Herm is shipping my axles and locking hubs for the rear on Monday - Herm, you are the man!

Have a few questions:

1. HUBS - Getting the backs of the hubs flat ... are these "flat enough" to mount the rortors to, or do they need to be machined to be absolutely completely flat? I would be afraid that would make the flange awfully thin.



I noticed that the hub mentioned as "flat" in this article: http://www.earlycj5.com/technical/brakes/early-cj-disk-brake-swap/ isn't really flat:



2. SPINDLES (for Full Float D44 Rear) - I have (two of each of) three different types of spindles. The backs are different. Would one type be better than the others?

What diameter to I need to get the back turned down to for fitment to my D44 axle housing? I mean I know I can tear the D44 down and measure, but I was trying to get the machining done before I tear everything down. -

EDIT -- OOPS - found my answer here: http://www.earlycj5.com/technical/axles/roll-your-own-full-floater-for-dana-44-with-tapered-axles/ - it's 2.87" - I'd read this thing 100 times ...



I'll take lots of pics as I do this job and do a writeup/post with part numbers and everything (should that go here or in the build/fab forum?).

NOTE: I moved this discussion over to the build/fab forum ... please post there: http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70412

 

my wife and I have separate bank accounts, always have. she doesn't know the passwords or logins for my account, and I don't get monthly paper sent to my house. I also pay every bill except our grocery bill and her car bill. She takes care of those from her job. She also knows I'm good with money, and we've never paid anything late, and don't use our credit cards. However, she does look disappointed every time I bring something home that costs a couple grand. I don't buy big stuff often, because I'm usually saving for it, she buys stuff every week. I always just tell her "add up how much you spent on clothes, shoes, fun, and it's about the same as I have saved for the last 9 months till I bought this thing". She then says "yeah, true" and goes on her way. And for all the little stuff, my default answer is "it only cost like 8 bucks", and she never questions it.

As far as the cost of the OP's idea, if he's not in a hurry, it may be easier/cheaper to look for a full floated rear end for sale and put discs on it. Probably take a couple months to find one, may have to pay for shipping, but most likely will be easier and cheaper, just gotta wait....for....that....deal....

 

For the hubs, you need to machine them so the rotors will fit. You will see more clearly what you need to do after you get your rotors and set them on the hubs. Basically, you dont need to go flatter, just in more, make the diameter of the "race housing" smaller at the bottom. But, when you machine them.. you can go over the flat area to make it all even and true.. but not take much more off.

For the Rear spindles.. I would also like to know which ones are better to use. I did read somewhere that a certain one was better.. I'm not sure, but it may have been the earlier d30 drum brake spindles

 

Yea some of the jeep parts that sell on ebay for rediculous amounts i guarantee their wives dont know about that stuff especially the f marked stuff pure lunacy

 

Well it is flat its just not cleaned up all the way. All you need to do is machine the rough machined surface to a better more uniform surface finish.

 

NOTE: I moved this discussion over to the build/fab forum by starting a new thread to document my progress ... please post there: http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70412